Rusty tank

best is use citric acid with hot wather

use about 10-18percent  of citric acid and rest hot wather abot 12hours

check tank after that whan is necesary use same  proces again it si good to make it in standart tempreature not in cold weather or room

when will be tank ok use somethink for wash out and make dry tank

ints simple and works very well

Tomas  Tesar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJ3aWbwXcDc

but if tank is cleft you must repair it before use this

https://www.nortonownersclub.org/node/13234

There are many tank sealants on the market. All require that the tank be very clean inside before use. I have heard horror stories of tank sealant failing and gumming up carburettors and cylinder heads. I would, if at all possible, go down the route of pressure testing (like you would an inner tube), brazing up pin holes and repeat until satisfied.

I used POR 15 to seal two tanks. I had one of them professionally cleaned the other I went the citric acid route with the second one followed by the hanging basket method.

I put in 6 off hanging basket chains and shook them around until my arms could take no more punishment as a means of clearing any leftover crud within the tank.

I also used the chains to distribute the sealer around the inside as this glup is pretty viscous in use.

I counted them all in and I counted them all out after I had finished. I ended up with some Art Nuovo sculptures once the chains had set hard?

That was 6 years ago and I have had no horror stories to relate.

If you go onto FROST Restorer equipment site, they have all the information you require for your tank needs.

Hi, I was recommended a product called 'DEOX C' from company Bilt Hamber, based in Chelmsford to remove rust from my metal Roadster tank. A 1kg tub is about £23 delivered - makes many litres when added to water, Apparently fill the tank and leave it for a day. I'll let you know how I get on when I use it. There are quite a few comments on this site about this subject. I think I would avoid sealing the tank, based on these comments - just clean out the rust, fit a filter and leave it bare. Hope this helps.

I put various small size odd metal shapes inside the tank and then shake these around for 5 minutes.  The inside is then flushed out with petrol and the above repeated twice more.

I then allow the tank to dry either outside or in my disused greenhouse. Finally I pour in around 250ml of Granville Rust Remover.  This gets sloshed around for 5 minutes, then the excess drained and the tank left to dry for 24 hours. This goo is similar to but far better than Kurust or similar anti-rust treatments.

Leonard suggests DEOX C.   It's apparently much the same as 'Evaporust' which I have used.  (DEOX C is cheaper and from UK and I wish I had bought it.)

I used Evaporust to treat a few steel items, including a lathe chuck with surface rust.  The rust simply dissolves away completely, leaving bare grey steel.

It needs the item to be submerged in the fluid for a few hours or even days.  No problem with leaving it inside a fuel tank for as long as you need unless it's leaking badly, although I imagine you could temporarily tape over any pinholes.

I don't know what internal finish is best on the bare metal.  Did they originally have anything?  I think they are usually bare metal and the fuel is the only thing to prevent rust.

Modern fuels are rust promoters.

Ethanol is hygroscopic, (absorbs moisture very readily) It is my opinion that to go through all of the treatments suggested on this forum and to then leave the bare tank to the ravages of to-days fuels is looking towards a cycle of continued rust problems until the tank is a mere tissue of iron oxide and you are in need of a new one!

Rust is caused by water, not ethanol. The problem has always been there although the fact that ethanol actively draws moisture out of the air certainly makes matters worse. However, if the bike is used regularly so that the fuel is constantly being flushed thru, it's not that much of a problem.

The issue is really one for a bike left standing with a half-empty tank in a damp shed for extended periods. And then corrosion that was always going to happen, happens sooner. But, if you are aware of the problem, keep the tank topped right up (less air space means less moist air), use the bike once a week and drain, dry and oil the inside of the tank when parked up over winter you should not have any major problems.

There are also products which claim to inhibit corrosion, such as https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/tank-safe-3/ , which would be a whole lot less hassle, although I have no experience of using them.

A capful of Castrol "R" 40 to a tank full of fuel should help, plus the added bonus of that beautiful aromatic exhaust.

"To experience this "hit" do not run your engine in a confined space".

Why? Is burned castor oil worse than carbon monoxide?

I cannot imagine anyone who has experience of exhaust emissions containing the residues of the above have written about it in any great length to allow us to know the answer to your query! 

Is Castor worse than CO? Not sure but Ricin is made from Castor beans so it might be!

Why not try electrolysis?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICW01HFbaxc

www.fertan.co.uk

I've restored a copy of rust buckets successfully using Fertan's great products

Paul 

A slightly different angle - but I have a disaster on my hands. I have just gone through the POIR15 process to reseal my tank after discovering large lumps of resin like material coming adrift inside the tank from a sealing job I did perhaps 20 years ago. I am assuming this is the effect of ethanol fuel? 

My problem is that my tank became dislodged from its horizontal position during its 96 hours in the airing cupboard and the result is that all of the sealant has run down to the ful tap end! The result is that the fuel tap threads are now about half an inch from the surface of the sealant!. If I cannot think of a way to remove this sealant I fear I may have scrapped my tank!!!!

I wonder if the old methylene chloride paint stripper would remove excess?  Nitromors isn't allowed to contain it, but it still seems to be sold on the Internet.

I suspect (with no evidence) that it's not ethanol that strips paint.  (Is vodka a paint remover?)  It might be acetone which according to one of my books was used as a stabiliser to prevent separation of methanol and ethanol from petrol in racing 'dope' fuels.  Perhaps acetone would remove the stuff?

Can’t you just bore a hole through the sealant, to let petrol reach the tap?

The supplier of the Pore 15  for  example Frost Restorer products should be able to help if you let them know what your problem is.

Nitro methane can be pretty vicious stuff but you need a licence now since the terrorists discovered its effectiveness in enhancing the devastation weed killer and sugar combined can cause. 

I have since had a response from POR15 who confirm that "a good paint stripper will remove POR15. It will take some time but it will work."

Having thought about it - I wouldn't be that much better off? I would need the stuff completely dissolved in order to get it out of the tank. 

I'm coming around to the view that I need to cut a couple of small panels out of the floor of the tank, all around the taps. I will then get some improved access in order to apply stripper where I have to and be able to scrape the residue out, as well as cleaning immediately around the taps themselves of course. 

Re; suggestion to simply bore out the holes - I did that, but once you do that, the taps are effectively sitting at the bottom of two cones. There would easily be a few pints still in the tank but below the level of the top of those cones - A big issue in a roadster tank.  I could ride it with limited range - but the reserve would be useless?

The clever bit is welding the access panels back in. Luckily the tank has been thoroughly cleaned throughout the POR process - and I could even 3/4 fill it with water first....