Really useful mods

I finally removed my siamesed pipes earlier this year after foolishly putting up with them for far too long.  Only now is the bike running properly at high cruising speeds.  They were (unknown to me) causing imbalance at speeds over 60mph and probably caused a piston crack incident at 70mph a few years ago.

It might simply have been poor fabrication and yours might be better.  But the internal join from the side pipe was not clear enough because the pipe internal hole size wasn't a close enough match to the oval hole in the direct pipe.

I thought the siamesed felt as if they gave a small amount of increase torque during acceleration, but realise now they reduced top speed and caused more vibration and, I believe, piston damage.  The "improvement" was probably wishful thinking after spending unnecessary money on them.

Have you inspected the inside join carefully?  Have you done any motorway speed running alongside modern traffic yet?  If it doesn't whiz up to well over the legal limit, take care.

All good stuff except the key on the bars, all my Norton's  but two have them hidden away.

Don't make it easy for the covid cops to stop you  as you try to find a safe place.    

Don't worry Graham, no one else does either...

Those who have been enforcing tyranny.Our freedom for money.

I guess you are compliant with tyranny, Stan?

Anyway, any issues with the anti sumping device, Graham?  I cured most of mine by engineering out the pump wear to the engine. All new parts available from RGM.

Enjoy it while you can and good luck to all.

Brake and clutch levers look to have distance wider than 7/8” between pivot and nipple centers?. If so will work but with reduced efficiency. Hard clutch , iffy brake. Also very wide reach makes for slow response in an emergency. 

   Zim, hi .Great photo essay, l hope more people are "allowed" to do this. Maybe l should- . You didn't mention th very useful  2LS, is apparent in th pics. Also, l like th touch of p0l*t*cs, can be entertaining. Until someone looses an eye. (One-eyed?) . l agree with your comments on MPH, th atmosphere seems insistent after 80.

 l may presume that as you enjoy the middle gears, you note th tachometer? Those short con-rods that deliver joyful midrange torque, may make a break for freedom if their joyousness becomes unbound. Atlas shruged. Continue to be happy with it. .

Hi Graham, I would re-consider those levers as they are giving the cables a hard time with sharp angles that will make for heavy action and fast wear. Perhaps a slightly different handlebar will allow them to work at a better angle ?.

A very tasty restoration.....looks good.

I like the handle bar end mirrors......I must get some for my cafe racer.

If I have read your engine number correctly this was from a large batch of Atlas models that got shipped off to Berliners in Spring 1966.  The frame looks to be from a slightly earlier model.

Only suggestion to improve your bike would be to check the tension of the rear chain which looks a little tight to me.  On the mainstand you need at least 3/4 to 1" of slack, otherwise the teeth on the gearbox and brake sprockets will start to get damaged.

For me it was transforming the bottom bolt holes in the rear engine plates into slots, making it possible to remove the engine without disturbing the gearbox.

Otherwise it was 12v electrics and heated handlebar grips. 

“Submitted by Robert Tuck on Fri, 20/10/2023

Hi Graham, I would re…

Hi Graham, I would re-consider those levers as they are giving the cables a hard time with sharp angles that will make for heavy action and fast wear. Perhaps a slightly different handlebar will allow them to work at a better angle”

Yep- that front cable is going to fray, then break or jam.  Get the basics of maintenance and safety right, before embarking on clever modifications.

“Fuel Diamond” sounds like total garbage to me.

Hi Graham, Sorry if we are raining on your parade !,  it’s normal , there are lots of old salts here who have seen it all , but will happily give their time and experience if and when you really need it . I too have one of those mirrors with the extra elbow joint and it’s perfect in a narrow corridor folded away , Phil’s spotted the tight ? chain as I did , the last 4 bikes I worked on all had tight chains which destroy bearings and cause horrid vibrations ,  Norton boxes are prone to movement , well worth a regular check  till it settles down , I like the tank cover and Siamese pipes , very practical, See you out there!

Bar end mirrors are the only ones that don’t fall to bits on my vibey old twin.

Electronic ignition isn’t a bad idea, but I prefer to be rid of the magneto’s bearings and paper daisies.

The RH footrest seems low to me. Perhaps one serration up? And the other mod on my one - a single carb. Suits the lazy mechanic down to the ground. Only one choke and throttle cable, no carb balancing. Ideal. 

 I found setting the footrests low  made gearchanging difficult with proper riding boots , it did not do rear wheel braking any favours either ,. and made setting the std brake light switch unreliable . Better to put up with knees too high .An extra long (welded) gearchange lever and some raised handlebars with a sensible riding position makes it all work. .