MK3 Gearbox camplate

Thanks I have just stripped the box down so just the high gear is left in and found

that you can`t remove the cam plate as this hit`s into that high gear, the only reason

was so I can get to the cam plate as Neutral was hard to find, if you were in second gear

it would go though neutral into first gear and if you were in first it would go though neutral into second and on the odd time it would hit neutral, I have checked out everything in the outer case and renewed the ratchet plate the pawl and the springs and anything else that was needed last year and still had that same problem, I have checked out that V in the cam plate for the Plunger sits in and yes I renewed the plunger too the only thing I could do is just give that Neutral V a little touch with a file but nothing drastic.... also check out the little raised bump on the cam plate for the neutral switch as the is a MK3, at one time I even backed off the switch so it was not even touching the plate that did not make any difference at all.

so if there is anyone who has come across this problem please let me know before I put it all back together would be great.... it`s been a nightmare as if you come up to a junction or traffic lights the time you have found Neutral it time to go again

I have replaced the spring and the plunger and that did not work, I stripped the clutch as had to sort out the dreaded sprag clutch bearing along with the crankshaft sprocket and starter gear, I also washed all clutch plates Drum etc thoroughly and replaced clutch drum back bearing and it still do the same, that`s why I have stripped the gearbox down, I replaced all the parts in the outer gearbox case last year and still it do the same, my mate`s 750 has a nice click when it go`s from first to second and Neutral engage with a nice feel to it.... but not on my 77` 850 mk3, I even checked out the cross over shaft including the connector which connects the two shafts where it go`s in the back of the gearbox.....still can`t find what the hell it is.... so very very Frustrating when I keep spending money and it still the same

Hi Katherine

No I would say its not heavy to operate, and the clutch centre is new clutch is

surflex plates, and the clutch has only done 4000 miles.

I tried using ATF that I did not like so use 20/50 as per many MK3 owners say to use,

Yes the Ratchet spring is set up the right way round and just sits up against the pawl

and both the bush`s in the outer and inner gearbox are fine along with the bush in the Primary, also the lift on the clutch diaphragm is good as it release all the plates no problem,

Thanks Mo

Thanks to everyone for the input.

I am going to double check the spring as to the arms and how close to the pawl they are

and adjust the if need be,

thanks Katherine I have just got some rear Isolastic shims from AN with all the rest of the parts ordered so will shim that out between .005" to .010" end float as when last checked it was around .035" so I will do that just waiting for AN with my other parts which will take about two weeks then I can put the gearbox back together again,

I am not going to take apart the Primary again till I see how the gearbox acts after all that I am doing to it so the Surflex Fibre plates and the oil I will keep as is till then,

I have done a Mod on the clutch push rod as I know you can buy a Nut with a O ring in it to go on the clutch centre but not going to pay £29 for a nut to try and stop any gearbox oil going though to contaminate the clutch and it`s plates, so I got a 6mm Dia silver steel rod and hardened each end and put in a recess to take an o ring which might help stop some of the oil traveling across to the clutch side don`t think it will stop all...so you never know it might help

Previously allan_walker wrote:

Hi Mo,

Have you disturbed the adjustment of the neutral switch at all?

If this is set too 'tight' (i.e. screwed in too far) it will cause considerable drag on the camplate.

Other than that, as has already been mentioned, I have found that setting the pawl spring is paramount. There is basically only one correct setting. Too close/touching the pawl will cause binding and/or mis-selection of gears. Too loose and you'll have lots of free play in the gear lever.

It took me many attempts at re-shaping the spring when I fitted a new one as part of a full gearbox rebuild. During the process I tried three new springs - all were a slightly different shape, and none of them fitted correctly 'out of the packet.'

Hi Allan

I am now also putting a new Neutral switch in and am going to set it up while I have the gearbox apart using my Fluke meter set to when the switch hit`s the Neutral button on the cam plate it will sound and I can lock it off with the lock nut and I will know then that it is set to the best it can be,

Hi

I have put all the gears back in until you said about the track across the the dimple on the cam plate for the Neutral to push in the switch so I have taken the gears back and looked at the profile on that dimple and it did not have a nice finish on it and there was a small track on it like you said, so I have re-profiled it so when the head of the switch come up to it now has a better run over it, the I have set it up so the switch only just work when it is in Neutral allowing for heat expansion and it run over the dimple a lot better,

so I hope in a week or two when I get the rest of my gearbox parts I can put it back together and hope it is better

Oh I did check the out case with the spring and it fitting nice up to the pawl so that`s good