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Jubilee oil tank connections

Submitted by mark_cox on Sun, 26/01/2014
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Light Twins

Hi group hopefully some can help? I'm nearing the end of a complete nut and bolt rebuild of my early 60's jubilee and I could do with some help in working out the correct connections for the oil tank I have attached a picture of the tank that I had zinc plated before having it painted I have lettered the connections in the hope that some one can help many thanks Mark

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Submitted by peter_holland1 on Mon, 27/01/2014

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Mark,

A. This is the connection for a pipe to the rocker oil feed manifold on the cylinder heads

B. This is the oil retun pipe from the two pipe manifold at the bottom of the engine. Ensure you know which of these two pipes on the manifoldis oil feed and oil return.

C. The filter and engine oil feed union screws in here. I recommend a new composite copper sealing ring. Samesealing ringused on Dominator.

D. Pipe to engine breather near the gearbox output sprocket. I chose this rather than E.The breather and tank pipe stubs are near same diameter. Seemed logical.

E. Breather pipe from oiltank to go through hole in top front of chainguard and give mist lubrication to rear chain. Again, seemed more logical than D, as the small hole in chainguard suggests a smaller bore pipe.

Works fine on my lightweight.

If the rest of the bike matches the fine finish of the tank and seat, look forward to seeing it. Well done.

Peter Holland

Previously mark_cox wrote:

Hi group hopefully some can help? I'm nearing the end of a complete nut and bolt rebuild of my early 60's jubilee and I could do with some help in working out the correct connections for the oil tank I have attached a picture of the tank that I had zinc plated before having it painted I have lettered the connections in the hope that some one can help many thanks Mark

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Mon, 27/01/2014

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Hello there,

A little bit of additional info.According to the original OIL PIPE RUNS drawing (TRG Brock & Ray Sage -NOC 1994) you need approxiamately 7 feet of 1/4" bore petrol/oil grade pipe and 22" of 3/16" bore petrol/oil grade pipe. Plus 8 x pipe clips.

You need two lengths - each 20" x 1/4" - from the oil tank to the junction block on the bottom of the engine. Sitting on the bike the Left hand pipe connects to the tee piece on the tank. The 22" x 3/16" pipe goes from the tee piece to the rockers.

The pipe from the breather to the tank is shown as 24" x 1/4" and the pipe to the chaincase is shown as 20" x 1/4".

Good luck and yes it does look good so far.

Patrick.

Submitted by mark_cox on Mon, 27/01/2014

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Thank you Peter and Patrick this will help.

I brought the bike 18 months ago, seized up, messed about with and last on the road in 1977 since then she as been strip bare completely revamped every bearing replaced I had the crank balanced as it was 50g out, I had all the fixing stripped and zinc plated, but this wasn't good enough so went the route of polished stainless I've made many of the parts at my cnc engineering company I've even made new stainless rear foot pegs. well the bikes 54 years old and deserves a bit of pampering I've attached a pic of work in progress

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Tue, 28/01/2014

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Hi Mark,

You have certainly put in a bit of work so far -new rims,new tyres and a proper engine rebuild. It's just as well you can make your own stainless items - it all adds up to a lot of time and cost.

Presumably it's your personal choice to do the wheel hubs and frame in black. What colour are you doing the bodywork?

Patrick

Submitted by mark_cox on Tue, 28/01/2014

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Hi Patrick,

All my bikes are black, I also have a Hayabusa, 1967 matchless G15, 1979 Kawasaki z1300 and a 1979 Kawasaki Z250 which I brought new.

I know black is not correct, but hay! I can get the painting done for free and it looks good with the polished stainless and aluminium also to paint in black the preparation has to be spot on otherwise every dent and ding will show up trying to complete by Easter then I have to see if I can reclaim the old reg No. Hopefully this won't be a problem as I have the buff log book and the last tax disc from 1977.

I've attached a picture showing some of the work so far, I also slipped in a shot of the matchless

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Submitted by dan_field on Wed, 29/01/2014

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Thanks this post anwers a question I was going to ask! I assume its a good idea to fit a remote oil filter? Mark your work looks lovely!

Dan

Submitted by mark_cox on Wed, 29/01/2014

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Previously Dan Field wrote:

Thanks this post anwers a question I was going to ask! I assume its a good idea to fit a remote oil filter? Mark your work looks lovely!

Dan

Hi Dan thank you, when you find out the best place in the oil system and were to mount the remote filter please pass the info on as I plan to do the same

mark

Submitted by peter_holland1 on Fri, 31/01/2014

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Mark,

You didn't ask about the oil tank drain plug. Just be aware this a BSP thread, 28 threads per inch, not the usual 26 threads per inch.

Bet this has caught a few out. I expect you will have to make one in stainless like me. Couldn't find the correct screw in any stainless supplier lists.

Cheers

Peter

Previously mark_cox wrote:

Hi group hopefully some can help? I'm nearing the end of a complete nut and bolt rebuild of my early 60's jubilee and I could do with some help in working out the correct connections for the oil tank I have attached a picture of the tank that I had zinc plated before having it painted I have lettered the connections in the hope that some one can help many thanks Mark

 


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