Jubilee engine

Hello there,

I think it is safe to say that the answer is yes.

I have definitely removed and refitted gearbox internals with the engine in the frame and have also removed/refitted heads and barrels. All my gearboxes are the earlier type so I can't speak for the later 1964 type.

Watch the push rods and cam followers!!. I think they can fall into the crankcase if your unlucky but a couple of rubber bands will hold them in place until properly in position.

Patrick

Previously kelvin_potter wrote:

Hello just a few quick questions, I am ready to rebuild my engine and then fit into the frame, to save on weight and scratching the frame can I just put the crank and cams in to the engine, and can the gearbox be fitted afterwards, also dies it matter which way the con rod go on the crank. Cheers.

I think its easier to fit the engine if you undo the front member at the top and swing it down,. Personally i'd fit the gearbox out of the frame and make sure it selects ok, it doesnt weigh very much and will be easier to fit when the engine is on the bench.

Dan

Hello Kelvin,

It's ten years since I last put together a Jubilee engine (and it's still running) but I don't recall any big problems. According to the 1959 Maintenance Manual & Instruction Book the official Norton factory method is this;

"CRANKSHAFT REFITTING.

If new parts are being fitted or the location of any packing shims omitted it will be necessary to relocate the crankshaft centrally by checking that when the crankshaft is hard against the TIMING side bearing the flywheel rim is central beneath the narrow land between the cylinder spigot holes. Gently heat the crankcase before pressing or drifting the main bearings into position, ball journal on the timing side and roller on driving side, do not heat the latter half if the oil seal is in position. Fit inner race to driving side shaft. Wipe crankcase joint faces and smear both with jointing compound. Fit crankshaft into TIMING side ensuring that it is right home in the bearing. Fit both camshafts into timing side crankcase. (The inlet has the extension for contact breaker drive). Fit the crankcase joint washer by sticking it to the timing side joint face. Now fit the DRIVING side case and tap home with a mallet if necessary taking care that the joint washer is properly positioned all round. Fit the crankcase studs which do not hold the engine in the frame, including the two Allen screws between the bores. Lightly pinch each one before finally retightening. The driving side oil seal may be drifted into position either before or after the crankshaft is in position.

Also when fitting the caps to the conrods make sure that that they are the right way round. They should be marked. The book seems to say that you should mark the conrods before removal and the refit them the same way round and to the same journal.

Easier to do I think than to explain.

Patrick.

Hello Kelvin,

I can't say for certain on this and I am inclined to think that it is not critical - possibly more to do with the original balance factor. In any case do a trial assemble of the pistons and barrels and see if everything seems to spin over happily.

The precise phrasing in the book says "Check that rod and cap are marked for correct re-assembly and mark the rod and crankshaft to ensure it being fitted the same way round as originally."

Maybe someone else has better info.

Patrick