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Jubilee back wheel offset.

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Nearly there in getting my Jubilee back on the road. Had my back wheel rebuilt over sixteen years ago. Just noticed the rim is central to the hub, when the wheel is fitted in the swinging arm it does not look central to the frame. Does anyone know what the offset should be for the back wheel. Looks like I will have to have it rebuilt.

Thanks

John.

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I don't have any figures for the offset as I generally true the wheels up using the frame itself as a jig. Why not simply measure the amount out of true and pass this info on to the person doing the adjustment. It is quite likely that the rim can be pulled into line without re-spoking.

Patrick

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Previously john_dunn1 wrote:

Nearly there in getting my Jubilee back on the road. Had my back wheel rebuilt over sixteen years ago. Just noticed the rim is central to the hub, when the wheel is fitted in the swinging arm it does not look central to the frame. Does anyone know what the offset should be for the back wheel. Looks like I will have to have it rebuilt.

Thanks

John.

Hi John

If you search jubilee rear wheel offset on this site you will find figures I posted from Roy Bacons book.Hope this helps.

Stan

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According to Roy Bacons book the offset is 1.7/8". Looking at the back, the wheel rim wants pulling to the right. Does not look a difficult job with the right tools. I would do it with the wheel fixed to the swinging arm, will the tyre have to come off. Any tips.

Thanks

John.

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Just done some quick measurements. It looks like I only have to move the rim to the right by 1/2". This will then centre the rim between the swing arm.

John

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Yes. The tyre has to come off. The original Norton spoking used 6 9/16" spokes on one side but most people (well in Yorkshire anyway ) rebuilding use the one size - 6.5 inches - for both sides. The odd 1/16 doesn't matter and of course you probably have new rims with very marginally different dimples in any case. With the tyre off and the rim trued grind off any excess at the spoke ends before putting on the rim tape.

Patrick

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What would be the best way to pull the rim to the right. Would it be to slightly loosen the left spokes (looking at the back of the bike) and then tighten the right spokes.

John.

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Correct. Just slacken off the left hand side by say a couple of turns and the tighten up the right hand side. Repeat as necessary. But do it fairly gently until you get the feel for it. You can then fix a pointer at a convenient point to check that the rim is running true. Don't over tighten any one spoke nipple - try to keep them all equal. A good guide; I would normally expect to see each spoke the same depth in the nipple, at least for each side of the rim -that is looking from the inside of the rim. But spokes,even when new can vary a little bit in length so don't panic about this in itself.

I am not an expert on wheel building so use your best judgement. If it doesn't feel or look right it is best to get help.

Patrick

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Thanks Patrick. As you say the tyre has to come off. It looks in good condition, but it is about 20 years old. Probably a good idea to change it.

Does anyone have a preference for the rear tyre for a Jubilee

Thanks

John.

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Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

Yes. The tyre has to come off. The original Norton spoking used 6 9/16" spokes on one side but most people (well in Yorkshire anyway ) rebuilding use the one size - 6.5 inches - for both sides. The odd 1/16 doesn't matter and of course you probably have new rims with very marginally different dimples in any case. With the tyre off and the rim trued grind off any excess at the spoke ends before putting on the rim tape.

Patrick

Hi Patrick,

interesting that, I have just been checking my back wheel as there is a spoke I would like to replace, I measure mine at 7 5/8 but the wheel is laced 3x, I think that it should be 2x, in which case a 6 1/2" spoke would be correct. Looking at Bacons book, all the pictures are of 2x. Can you confirm that for me and also would you know the correct spoke thickness and length of the bend. CWC wheels seem to be the best source for spokes but need this info.

Almost a joy, these old bikes turn up interesting challenges at every turn..

Regards

Andrew

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Hello Andrew,

All my wheels are definitely 2X . i.e each spoke crosses two others. I can only assume that your wheel was spoked for some special purpose. I can't recall the actual gauge of the spokes (I think that is the phrase used by wheel builders) so I simply used a vernier and find that the galvanised spokes in one Navigator are 0.125" and the stainless spokes in another are 0.142". The bend is approx 90 degrees (actually a little less) and the length turned over is very short. From the inside of the head to the inside of the spoke I measure at 0.175".

I got my spokes from two different sources at different times - Wyldes of Leeds who recommended going a gauge heavier than standard and John Smith, North East Wheel Builders who I think advised to keep to standard gauge.

You might already know that for some strange reason the Jubilee original rim (WM2 -18) is marked with the usual Dunlop regd trade mark etc but it also is marked "For machines not exceeding 250cc ". This should not be on a genuine original Navigator rim. Maybe this is why there is some difference of opinion as to the gauge of the spoke.

Patrick.

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Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

Hello Andrew,

All my wheels are definitely 2X . i.e each spoke crosses two others. I can only assume that your wheel was spoked for some special purpose. I can't recall the actual gauge of the spokes (I think that is the phrase used by wheel builders) so I simply used a vernier and find that the galvanised spokes in one Navigator are 0.125" and the stainless spokes in another are 0.142". The bend is approx 90 degrees (actually a little less) and the length turned over is very short. From the inside of the head to the inside of the spoke I measure at 0.175".

I got my spokes from two different sources at different times - Wyldes of Leeds who recommended going a gauge heavier than standard and John Smith, North East Wheel Builders who I think advised to keep to standard gauge.

You might already know that for some strange reason the Jubilee original rim (WM2 -18) is marked with the usual Dunlop regd trade mark etc but it also is marked "For machines not exceeding 250cc ". This should not be on a genuine original Navigator rim. Maybe this is why there is some difference of opinion as to the gauge of the spoke.

Patrick.

Thanks Patrick,

all good stuff, to see the history would be something. Thanks for the spoke info, a big help. Re the wheel size, it never occured to me to check the diameter as I assumed it to be standard. Measured at 19"! Assume nothing. Now to think about new rim and spokes or as was. Better informed though.

Regards

Andrew

 


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