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Fitting AP caliper CP2696

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I'm just about to fit one of these, and am wondering about the best way to organise attachment of hose and bleed nipple.

In every picture I've seen the hose is attached to the upper inlet port and the bleed nipple to the lower one that's at about 150? opposite. But having the bleed nipple at the bottom of the system seems about the worst arrangement possible.

The caliper also has a pair of inlet ports on the inner, wheel, side (which I'm assuming are intended for car applications); see pictures here:

https://www.oldbritts.com/14_000004.html

Why not -- I ask myself -- use the upper of these to attach the hose using a banjo fitting, and fit the bleed nipple to the upper one of the outside ports, where it will be higher than the caliper pistons?

The main issue that I can see is ensuring that the brake hose does not flex in such a way as to come inside the swept path of the wheel spokes.

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On both of the old 80's made CP2696 calipers I have only the upper port on the large casting side is drilled and this has the feed from the master cylinder, on the small casting side the upper port has the bleed nipple which works well for bleeding. There are no other drilled ports just the stubs so it was setup in the past for the scheme you propose.

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I use a Grimeca caliper and use the upper holes for hose and Nipple. I do have one long Braided brake Hose. I take the caliper off of the bike and put on an old disc in a raised position for bleeding with nipple at the highest position.When done refit to bike.

Attachments 21%201%202014%20011.JPG
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Previously Julian Wells wrote:

I'm just about to fit one of these, and am wondering about the best way to organise attachment of hose and bleed nipple.

Have you considered using hoses with a banjo connection combined with a banjo bolt fitted with a bleed nipple in the centre. I used this setup for the brembo radial conversion on the front of my ZRX1200r. It makes for very easy bleeding.

Regards

Esme

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Checked my AP caliper, it does not have any lower tappings. Hose inlet on outside, bleed nipple on inside where it's difficult to get at. I remove the caliper from the fork leg when I bleed it. Picture attached. The suggestion of a banjo bolt fitted with a bleed nipple is an excellent idea. I wouldn't want my hose on the inside as it would be very close to the wheel spokes.

Alan

Attachments brake-calliper-jpg
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Using the combined banjo bolt and bleed nipple will only bleed fresh fluid as far as the nipple and not flush the old fluid from the caliper pistons. As others have said here, I remove the caliper for bleeding and bleed both nipples with the caliper turned to put the nipple uppermost. Any suitable spacer will keep the pads and pistons where you want them. Or, remove the wheel and reverse bleed with a syringe through the inner nipple. Bit messy but fluid should have been through both caliper chambers.

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Belated thanks to everyone for their input -- I've been distracted by other commitments ...

1) good to know from Katherine that the banjo bolt/nipple thing can be made to work; not really the answer in my case, as I'm using a hose direct from master cylinder to caliper (the latter seen lower centre-right in the attached)

2) As David says, setting up the assembly on the bench is by far the best way -- when one is setting up for the first time -- and is in fact what I have now done. But my thought was directed to achieving a layout that would make roadside repairs easier.

This harks back to a very tiresome day, many years ago, when I lost all the fluid from the front brakes of my Ducati Pantah (knocked off at low speed, and contact with the road flipped the plastic reservoir off the master cylinder).

Fortunately -- since I was far from home, in San Sebastian -- I didn't lose the parts. But could I get the brakes to pump up, once I'd sourced some fluid? Not for love or money, despite spending a morning on the task (with conveniently-placed bleed nipples, I would add).

Eventually I got fed up and just rode off (it was a very quiet Sunday morning); lo, and behold -- after 100 miles the brakes had pumped themselves up ...

3) Christopher's Grimeca caliper looks quite similar to the Brembos involved in my Pantah saga

4) Alan's picture effectively illustrates my original query; I think one would have to accept a rigid pipe at the end of the hydraulic line to be sure of avoiding contact with the spokes

5) Now for a small competition (for brownie points): who can identify the source of my handlebar? (see also further post with extra picture)

Attachments handlebar1medium-jpg

 


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