fastner finish ?

hello, most are nickelplated see quality chrome.co.uk

I've never seen nickel plate on a post-war Norton.

A lot will depend on the production date. Bracebridge Street were very fond of both bright (sometimes over a machined finish) and dull chrome. Woolwich cheapened things down and used a lot of cadmium.

Any refinishing will involve complete removal of the original finish so if the new plating is to original spec then there will not be fit problems...the art is in persuading them to do so.

Don't use hot zinc galvanising which is suitable only for old-fashioned dustbins and industrial constructions.

Some items would have been cadmium plated - no longer available. Different items require different finishes. Some fasteners bright chrome, some items like fork stanchions could be hard chromed and then ground down to size. Only very early Nortons would have had nickel plated parts. Be careful with refurbishing precision finished parts. As you mention, a spindle for instance would suffer - first by being polished and etched and then by being built up by electroplating. Careful masking would be required to leave the precision finished bits well alone. A lot to be said for the oily rag approach.

Cadmium plating is still allowed for military and aerospace applications where there is no alternative so it is still carried out...you just have to find someone who can go in with a bucket on a Saturday !

As you have posted in "heavy twins"--- Many fasteners were plated in a satin chrome .Some prominent parts with polished chrome. The chrome was of good quality ,much still remains on my 60 bike.As i'm not fussed about orriginality I would consider nickel if tempted to DIY. Stainless is often used but its not the salvation one would hope for and can bring other surprises.

Hi Andy,

Where are you located? I am in the USA & we do still allow cad plating, but our enviromental Protection Agency regulates it use & disposal (I am all for that!).

I rebuild magnetos & dynamos & am regularly visiting my cad plater. If You need anything done, let me know. Zinc looks kinda like cad, but doesent have nearly as many good qualities as the cad. As mentioned, the millitary requires it on a lot of parts.

Leaving out radiation control, the features that make cadmium attractive are: good corrosion resistance, solderability, cathodic protection of steel, galvanic compatibility with aluminum, excellent lubricity, freedom from stick-slip when torquing, malleability, economy, and no gummy and voluminous corrosion products.

AS the P11 was produced by Plumstead I would imagine that they would have specified the sort of finishes that AMC applied to AJS/Matchless bikes .They were not terribly interested in whatever Norton did in the past.

Cadmium is not allowed except in exceptional cases in UK because it is extremely poisonous when vapour is inhaled. It has caused deaths of construction workers who flame cut cadmium played bolts.

Axles and shafts don't need plating, as they are generally not seen. On assembly, give them a smear of oil. As far as nuts go, if I am not using new ones, which are always plated, I polish up the old ones and using my soldering iron, 'tin' them with resincored 60/40 electrical solder. A light propane flame helps push the solder film around. A quick wipe with a piece of heavy cloth while the solder is still molten to remove any excess leaves them with a semi bright finish which lasts and looks period. Works very well on oil lines as well.

Previously andy_johnson wrote:

thanks for the replys guys , i had quite a few items at quality chrome (hull) plated in bright zinc which I'm assured will fade with time , other items are new old stock fasteners or stainless ( i like stainless although some people don't)

cheers

andy (uk)

Hello A word to the wise On stainless steel do not mix stainless steel nut with older steel studs like on the barrel base as these shake loose if your using stainless use both nuts and bolts together or nuts and studs together and use plain washers or serratededge washers mudguard have hard rubber washers but I like using Nooks Nuts products, he does both nickel and stainless steel, but I found that nickel steel holds the bests these do not come undone very easy once tightened up were as stainless steeldoes come lose in time even after tightening them up hard, but this all dependson the type of stainless steelthe nuts and bolts are made from . some stainless steel is only coated, some is brittle, and cracks, like some stainless steel, spokes are brittle and collapses within the wheel its happen with new TriumphBonnies in one case it was a very close call for rider and his pillon passenger, on a motorway at that, so be very carefulwhat you buy, there are some rogue parts out there, But Can recommend Nooks Nuts Fasteners these are quality product, he makes some really good fasteners, at a fair price you like, yours Anna J

Hi my commando is all stainless and has done 50,000 miles over 27 years with none of the horror stories often heard. However as above use good quality, correct threads and washers. Also make sure everything is lubed when you put it together.

Regarding the zinc plate, i have heard of people dust blasting them so they look like cad