What is the best way to seal the oil pump feed into the timing cover?
The drawings and parts lists show a fiber washer but Mike Pemberton fits a large O ring without the washer.
On my '61 ES2, with the washer (bought from Norvil) alone the cover fits tight up against the crankcase without any gap or pressure to push it home.
When I put a small O ring (1/4") over the pump outlet without the fiber washer the cover still fits tight against the case without any resistance.
It's only when I fit the fibre washer plus the O ring that the cover has an initial gap of about 1/2 mm which pulls up with the screws.
Has anyone else had experience with this?
Have you got another cover…
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Alternative seals
Prior to fitting a new pump to my 19S the pump outlet to timing case gap was larger than the fibre washer. I don't think this is unusual. My solution then was to make a thicker seal by glueing a leather washer to each side of a steel washer, then checking that the cover gap was around 1/32" before tightening the screws. If I was faced with that problem now I think I would punch a washer out of Viton sheet, available in different thicknesses.
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Thank you for your help...
.... unfortunately I don't have another timing cover.
Using leather is an interesting idea, but I mustn't let my new Jap bike owners hear about this! I'll never live it down.
Fitting the small O ring as above resulted in almost no oil (only a few drops) dripping out of the drain after being left for 48 hours. So far so good.
I haven't run the engine yet so the big test is still to come.
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Oil seal
Hi Richard, what you have done seems fine, as other people have mentioned, the feed to the big end is not as critical on a roller as on a plain bearing.
On my M 50 I use a rubber 'o' ring with a 'bevel' on one side, as per M P.
With regards to the oil drain from the timing cover, I understand it is only for excess oil from the timing chain, and mine rarely, if ever leaks. I don't think it would have any bearing on the type of oil pump seal you use.
What year is your ES2 ?my M50 is 1960, and takes about 6 months at least to wet sump, or maybe I am just lucky!
Regards John O
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Sumping
Hi John,
I just started up my (1960) model 50 yesterday, first time since November. As there was half a tank of oil left in, there was no need for de-sumping.. I wish they were all like that.
Incidentally, did you check out the thread on the early deluxe and maybe other early slimline spring clip seat fixings? One poster mentioned the seat falling off off something like after going over bumps. I thought you were sure to read that?
Happy Easter.
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Hi Neil, I have an early…
Hi Neil, I have an early slimline with spring clip seat. What do you want to know?.
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Hi Robert (Dross Warning)
I spoke with John O a week last Sunday about the early spring clip seat fittings. My Dommie racer is one such frame, without the two spikes in the crossbar for the front of the seat.
My 1960 99, again built in 1959 also had no spikes, so I made a pair and had them welded on.
I didn't know there were two designs until I ordered a new seat from Leighton's in Birmingham, when I was asked which seat fixing do you want...etc, etc. (Clips or spikes)
It appears that not a lot of people are aware of this change.
Sorry, Richard,for going off topic on your thread. I'll give myself another dross warning.....
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Hullo John...
.. I wasn't referring to the drain on the timing cover.
With the oil pump outlet fiber washer in place and a 1/4" O ring against it, almost no oil came out of the engine drain plug hole after 48 hours.
I have since - as a test - removed the O ring and have left only the fiber washer in place.
After 48 hours about 200 ml have leaked out. So my engine definitely needs the O ring.
It's a 1961 ES2.
Thank you for your help.
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Have you got another cover you could check it against?