ES2 Head Steady?

Ron is right, when you set your primary chain tension make sure the adjuster bolt that adjusts the gear box is set so the pull of the rear chain won't pull your gearbox back and tighten up the chain. Er on the slack side when you do the primary chain and if you havn't replaced the chain for a while, lash out and get a new one. The primary chain is lighter than the rear chain, does engine revs (goes like mad) and cops plenty of heat. Is your oil bath chain case oil tight?, if not you know your primary may well have had it anyway. On a worn single row primary chain the tight and loose spots on a worn chain can really give out a monster vibe....

Bob

Previously wrote:

Hi anyone out there!,

No responses so assume no one has an opinion or a slimline ES2!

However, in case there is a lurker interested, the problem was caused by an overtight primary chain.............it is a vast improvement.

As an aside, I cannot see where a head steady would fit anyway.

I can definately state that my 1961 Slimline Model 50 and my brothers 1960 Slimline ES2 both have head steadys. At the top of the steering crown and on the front frame cross tube there are two sheet metal bosses that the head steady bolts to. The bottom of the steady has a U shaped arrangement with a hole at the bottom of each U that bolts to the two "bolts for head steady stay" pn: 21973 Illustration no. B11 on page 12 of the '61-'62 parts list.

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Hi anyone out there!,

No responses so assume no one has an opinion or a slimline ES2!

However, in case there is a lurker interested, the problem was caused by an overtight primary chain.............it is a vast improvement.

As an aside, I cannot see where a head steady would fit anyway.

I can definately state that my 1961 Slimline Model 50 and my brothers 1960 Slimline ES2 both have head steadys. At the top of the steering crown and on the front frame cross tube there are two sheet metal bosses that the head steady bolts to. The bottom of the steady has a U shaped arrangement with a hole at the bottom of each U that bolts to the two "bolts for head steady stay" pn: 21973 Illustration no. B11 on page 12 of the '61-'62 parts list.

Previously wrote:

Hi Ron and Bob,

Thanks for your responses.

FYI, I had fitted a megalife primary chain so no probs with oil tightness.

I had to cure an oil leak on the push rod tubes so today I had the head and barrels off, reset tappets etc. As I was never happy with the silencer I changed it to an older Norton one I had which is less restrictive. (I think the old silencer must of had a mice nest in it as it was so muted).

Road tested the bike tonight and it is different bike!

It pulls better, sounds a lot noisier and is actually smoother with less vibration!

Hello there,

Fitting a head steady will definitely smooth out your Norton Easy Two, I have a 1958 model 19S and it didn't come with one either, my Norton books don't show one as having been fitted to begin with, I made my own head steady and immediately noticed a smoother ride at speed, another thing I did was to slip a closely fitting brass bar into the ends of the handle bars, the extra weight out at the ends of the bars help to quell the vibes as well, lastly I went to a 21 tooth gearbox and 20 tooth engine sprocket, this raised the vibration zone to a speed that I rarely travel at and with the heavy flywheels that model 19 has, it hardly affects the acceleration or rather, 'gathering of speed' as the big engine doesn't really accelerate, it just goes faster over time.

Albert