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ES2 with Amal Concentric

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As you are all bored sitting at home with nothing to do (!), can anyone help me with a problem I am having?

My ES2 '61 is now running after a rebuild.

As I have a reasonable condition 930 Concentric carb, I fitted that instead of the old worn-out 376 Monobloc.

However, the bike is a pig to start both hot and cold. It seems to me that there is not enough fuel  in the float chamber as even after considerable tickling (it didn't laugh!) no fuel leaks out and the inlet remains dry. Splashing petrol into the bellmouth usually produces a result and once running it keeps going.

I have fitted a 270 main jet, a #3 slide and a 30 pilot jet.

As far as I can see, there is no way to adjust the float height.

Is there something I am missing here?

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Thanks David,

It never occurred to me that there could be different length ticklers.

I'll certainly check it.

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I found that the tickler fully depressed protrudes only 2.6mm beyond the body/float chamber gasket.

With the float needle closed, this was about the distance of the float upper surface below this gasket.

So the tickler was hardly, if at all depressing the float.

The float needle measured 17.2 mm tip to base. 

Another needle I had lying around measured 16.2mm. This means that the float is higher when the needle is closed. This raises the fuel level and allows the tickler to work more effectively.

I could not find any marking on the needles, so have no idea of what they come from.

I'll try to start it again tomorrow, but logic says it should be better.

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Thank you Michael for this link.

Yes, it is (overly?) complex, but I think what I have done gives a rough approximation of what he is saying.

Tomorrow will tell!

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The concentric was not designed to have its float adjusted. It's easy to break something that was not intended to be bent. Is the float leaking? Probably not or it would sink and flood.

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I screw a self tapper into the tickler stem inside the float bowel, you can then adjust the effective length of the tickler without using the official method of pulling on the tickler stem and risk marking the gasket surface. You can then adjust easily just by taking the float bowel off and screwing the self tapper screw in or out.

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Yes, John, I thought of that but instead I swapped each part of the ES2 Concentric - on the bench - with the Concentric from my Commando.

Swapping the float needle made no difference, still no fuel coming up when tickled.

I measured the depth below the float chamber upper surface of the needle seat, no difference between the float bowls.

Finally, I swapped floats, with original needles. With the original float in the ES2 float bowl, the float upper surface is about 1.5 mm below the bowl face surface.

With the Commando float, it is about 1 mm above the surface. These measurements are approximate but of the right order.

So I assembled it with the Commando float, tickled it for a few seconds and it started 3rd kick.

Although the floats look identical, there is something wrong with the ES2 float, I don't know what.

I will scrap the old float and get a replacement.

Thank you all for your help.

Richard

 

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The seat for the float needle is height adjustable, heat the float chamber and the right sized punch will move the seat up or down, or buy the latest stay up float with the adjustable hinge which has the same effect.

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Thank you John,

The logic here is clear, but carrying it out practically may not be so easy.

It would need to move only a couple of 10ths of a millimeter, using a hammer will make this a very uncertain operation.

I'll certainly think about how I could do it.

Thanks again.

 


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