Electra Engine Removal

I think they mean undo the engine mountings, then undo the studs at the top of the front frame member where it bolts to the frame rails and swing it down pivoting on where it bolts to the tubes at the bottom. It's Obviously easier if you take the forks off first!

its also easier if the heads and barrel are off if only to make it lighter, it's a heavy old lump!

Dan

The book says to use two people for removing the engine; one to open up the frame and the second to remove the engine. You must split the frame to remove the engine - I don't think it is possible to remove the engine otherwise.

Patrick

As a puny youth I rebuilt my Jubilee twice before I was old enough to ride it on the road(the second time employing the knowledge gained on the first rebuild(!)). In each case I removed the engine myself by removing the front mudguard and wheel, disconnecting the looms to the headlight and then, with the engine bolts removed and the rear bolt in the headstock joint removed, pivoted the front forks up until the frame member was out of the way and then rested the forks on a step ladder. A box was placed in front of the engine lump and (with top end, primary and timing cases removed to give hand holds)I manhandled it forward onto the box. Reinstallation was the classical reverse procedure... These days I would get help!

Hi Robert

As someone who has an Electra and also had a Navigator I have experienced some of your pain. Whoever wrote the manual probably did it by copying the advice from 1959, before the Electra and its frame bracing pieces were even dreamt about.

It is absolute agony having to remove the wiring harness so try leaving it in situ. It is difficult, but start by propping up the underside of the engine so the back wheel, centre stand and engine support are all taking some weight.

Remove the frame brace pieces and put the front top frame bolt back through the steering head.

Remove the carburettor. Oil pipes top and bottom. Alternator connections. Clutch cable. Drive chain. Exhaust pipes. Now remove all the four bolts that go through the engine mounts. Engine is resting in place. The lower rear engine bolt is actually a stud. You can't remove the stud with the frame assembled. Loosen both nuts to give you about 10mm lateral clearance. One of these nuts secures the centrestand spring mount. The frame is slotted so that the engine can be removed with the stud in place, but both nuts backed off at least 5mm.

Remove the lower front frame bolt and because you have already removed the head steady when removing the reinforcing plates, you can gently lift the front wheel about 6 ins (or more) and create space for engine removal.

I don't think it is possible to remove the Electra cylinder head with the reinforcing plates in place.

Personally I would try to take some weight off the very heavy engine gearbox unit before attempting engine removal. Some of the fasteners within the power unit are much easier to undo if the engine unit is held in the frame.

Lots of advice for you from others too. Make of it what you can.

Peter

Previously robert_juric wrote:

Does anyone have any advice on removing the engine from the Electra. I'm just getting started into my tear down and rebuild project, and I can't seem to understand the manual.

In the manual it states to remove all studs passing through the frame and crankcase. I've done that.

Then it says to "Remove one of the top front frame member studs-the member can pivot on its remaining bolt." This is the part I'm having a hard time visualizing.

Dan, you mentioned removing head & barrel first. Do they come off without having to dismantle the top frame?

Hi Robert,

Don't know if this will help you visualise it better, but I have attached a picture of my frame and arrowed the studs they refer to in the manual.

Best of luck with the restoration.

David.

Previously Maurice Turlington wrote:

Dan, you mentioned removing head & barrel first. Do they come off without having to dismantle the top frame?

They do on a navigator, not sure about the Electra, others may be able to advise?

As those other guys say - remove a much as you can while it's in the frame. It's a heavy one. To get it out, the frame hinges open, pivoting at the top and allowing the engine to come out. If you need any photos for the rebuild, I have LOTS. I had a facebook page dedicated to it but took it down after a while. You can see in the photo if you remove the rear of the two bolts up near the steering head, and loosen the front one it will let the front piece of the frame pivot forward.

If you are dismantling the whole bike then just remove the front member completely !

True!

Hi Robert,

Congratulation on getting the engine out! Its quite a lump.

I always (in the frame):

1) Take the heads off, then all the studs, then the barrels - so much easier with all the studs out!

2) Dismantle the Timing side gears & oil pump (the worm on the crank is L/H thread).

3) Dismantle the primary chaincase (starter, alternator, clutch & chain & sprocket). You will need a special tool to pull the engine sprocket off its taper.

4) Primary chaincase Inner cover.

5) Dismantle the gearbox (Axle sprocket nut is L/Hand thread).

Photographing & sorting into trays as I go.

In this way, what you have left in the frame is manageable. Remove one of the two studs at the top front of the frame, all 4 studs holding the power unit in place & the lower front member stud (catching all the spacers as you go). On post 106838 (& all Electra) engines, you can leave the bottom rear engine stud in place, but you need to ensure the centre stand spring in no longer attached & the nut(s) are clear of the slotted cups. A mate can then be roped in to lift the front wheel, to pivot the front frame member forwards & up, the remains of the engine can now be removed.

The motor may still be attached underneath by the oil junction block to the oil tank, unless the rubber hoses were removed earlier. The junction block has to be in place before you replace the engine, as its inaccessible once the motor is back in the frame.

Special tool required for engine sprocket removal. Use any other tool for this job at your peril!

The half-time pinion puller is also pretty essential - (the others are useful - but not essential).

If dismantling the gearbox anyway - the mainshaft can be knocked out of the clutch.

Similarly, the cams can be removed last, once the cases are split.

Most Important Golden Rule - Don't EVER, EVER, EVER knock the crankshaft with any kind of hammer to remove it.

The Drive side crankcase comes away once ALL the Allen screws are removed. There are TWO hidden deep in the timing chest & two more either side of the barrels at the top.

To remove the crank from the timing side, I 'hang' the crank in its crankcase half from some wooden planks placed on axle stands (with plenty of cloth to cushion the fall underneath). Ensure both conrods are at bottom dead centre and apply heat evenly to the main bearing journal. The crank & bearing should fall out out easily - gravity doing the work for you. If needed, a light tap via an appropriate box spanner placed over the oil feed end will do the job, if gravity alone is not enough.