Correct levers for 650SS?

Previously wrote:

Any help would be appreciated to help me get a lighter pull on my clutch lever .i've read in a magazine that a lever with a distance of less than an inch between pivot and cable nipple is required. Is this correct if so are they easily available?

Thanks Jeff.

Hello All Norton 650,s had ball end levers and 7/8th of a inch pivot distance , you need to take the shortest rout between the lever and the gearbox and try Venhill Cables yours anna j

The 650 and Altas clutch is invariably heavy, so making sure your cable run is smooth and cable well lubricated is essential. So build up these muscles and buy an old BSA for days when you want a rest from heavy clutches. Or a step-through Honda...

AMC Classic Spares had the correct levers at the best price when I needed some last year.

There is a modification you can make to the lever in the gearbox to change the profile which helps, the correct handle bar levers are essential and it is a waste of time buying these without a close inspection and measurement . Most suppliers refer to their stock as being 7/8" which means it will fit 7/8" BARS but means nothing else.The clutch on my 99 can be pulled in with one finger.

The Atlas clutch is heavier, but with attention to detail ---- a two finger clutch is possible!!!. I have an Atlas.

Can you not convert to a Commando diaphragm clutch?

Paul Goff does the correct 7/8" x 7/8" levers too. I'll be ordering a pairfrom him for collection at the Stafford Show. In the old days I always had the wrong levers - the clutch cable would break regularly and I built up real muscles on my left hand!

Cheers, Lionel

Hello Please guys do talk some sense, The Measurements of a lever is from the pivot to the barrel recess . for the cable end to fit in, As I Have The AMAL Parts Manual For Levers and handlebars as well as Carburettors , The stiffness of the clutch lever is down to two things the Cable or the clutch springs, I have had the same problem with my Manxman , When I first bough the bike, Now Sorted , with Venhill Featherlight cable and new clutch springs Yours Anna J

Previously wrote:

Hello Please guys do talk some sense, The Measurements of a lever is from the pivot to the barrel recess . for the cable end to fit in, As I Have The AMAL Parts Manual For Levers and handlebars as well as Carburettors , The stiffness of the clutch lever is down to two things the Cable or the clutch springs, I have had the same problem with my Manxman , When I first bough the bike, Now Sorted , with Venhill Featherlight cable and new clutch springs Yours Anna J

Anna, are you suggesting that the distance from the pivot to the barrel recess (as you put it) is irrelevant? It's not!

Previously wrote:

Previously wrote:

Hello Please guys do talk some sense, The Measurements of a lever is from the pivot to the barrel recess . for the cable end to fit in, As I Have The AMAL Parts Manual For Levers and handlebars as well as Carburettors , The stiffness of the clutch lever is down to two things the Cable or the clutch springs, I have had the same problem with my Manxman , When I first bough the bike, Now Sorted , with Venhill Featherlight cable and new clutch springs Yours Anna J

Anna, are you suggesting that the distance from the pivot to the barrel recess (as you put it) is irrelevant? It's not!

Hello yes In the Amal Manual there are 6 different ball end levers with 6 different measurements so its must something to with how the lever pulls the cable, and the angle of the pull the number are as follows No1. 18/823 .No2 18/752.No3 18/753 No4 18/824.No5. 18/754.No6. 18/755. all have different dimensions Yours Anna J

It may be of interest ,I have the orriginal levers on my 99, these were fitted at Bracebridge St, (I would not take much notice of what they did at Woolwich!), the clutch lever centers are 7/8" however the brake lever centers are 1 1/16", so Norton thought it important enough to specify different measurements. I have not seen another Norton with the orriginal fitments from these times. In an effort to solve an impossibly heavy clutch on a non Norton i re-drilled some levers changing the centers from 1 1/16" to 5/8" --a big alteration. without any other work the clutch became featherlite, However the reduced lift meant i had to very carefull to ensure even lift and flat plates . The bike is now my main rider.

Anna - as an engineer you should be VERY familiar with the greatermechanical advantage that 7/8" c/c pivots will give to any lever with any given length. It is well known that the clutch lever is best with 7/8" c/c. No need to botch up a "standard" lever when it's easy to buy the correct one.

Cheers, Lionel

I would be intrigued to find an Atlas with a 2 finger clutch which neither drags nor slips at full throttle at 4,000 rpm upwards. I think I have set mine up as well as sub-humanly possible, it's a perfectly acceptable clutch action but 2 fingers it ain't.

Hi

This has been a well timed thread as I have been trying to improve the clutch on my 650ss over the last two weeks.

Case Study

Step 1 (Easter Monday)

Renewed clutch plates (used Barnett plates sourced from Steadfast USA as cheaper than UK sources) - well overdue as these have been in there since I've owned the bike [30+ yrs!] and well stuck together.

Result - much improved lever pull but still quite heavy - mind you anything would have been an improvement!

Step 2

Measured fulcrum point to find I had a 1 inch lever fitted (also been there over 30 years). Based on previous response purchased correct 7/8 inch lever from AMC Spares (part no. 022718, ordered by phone, delivered next day, total cost £22.58 - excellent service). Fitted using my original perch.

Result - significantly lighter pull.

Note - Norton Maintenance manual states on page 34 that you should use a 7/8 inch fulcrum lever - is that authority enough - only saw this when I was using manual when replacing my clutch))

Step 3

Fitted featherlight clutch cable from Venhill (again next day delivery at a cost of £19.94).

Result - a slight improvement but not that significant - still probably worthwhile doing.

Have I a two finger pull clutch? Yes but only as a party trick!

As an aside I measured my brake lever fulcrum point and it is 1 1/16. Would the brake be improved by fitting a 7/8 lever - theory is it should. Any thoughts.

Anyway I hope this helps as I did my upgrades by stages so that I could gauge the improvements and share on here.

Graham

Thought I should do some clutch testing this morning. Note to readers - if your Atlas has been cold soaked overnight at -5 degrees and has oil in the sump, kickstarting can be a near-fatal exercise. Anyway, once I had recovered, I checked the clutch action. It is smooth and works fine using only 2 fingers! This is using a clutch lever with 1" fulcrum. I found that with 7/8" the slightly reduced travel can cause a spot of clutch drag with the extra plate that an Atlas has compared to an 88 or 99. It was great to be out and about on the treacherous crust of salt and farmer-spread mud we have round here. I had almost forgotten what a nice motor the Atlas has.

A 7/8" brake lever will improve the brake providing the cable is not stretchy and both brake shoes are in contact at the same time (centralised) , I also use a spare chain link in the action to act like a dog leg lever, this much helps the finger strength . I think Norton would have used a 7/8" brake lever but were of a mind that some riders could not safely use a good front brake!!, and yes this sounds silly now but its a legacy from early times.