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Commando rear wheel on Slimline Featherbed

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Dear All,

I'm considering using a Commando rear wheel (or at least hub) on my Slimline Dommie to benefit of the transmission rubber dampening system of the Commando.

The Dommie is equipped with a RGM belt primary drive, but it's quite often a bit "harsh" when gearing down from 3rd to 2nd for instance.

At first sight, I need to replace not only the hub, but also the brake drum because of the change in the linkage of the drum to the hub.

Once done, my other concern is with the dimensions of the "new" wheel: will it fit into the width of the swinging arm? will the rear chain sprocket be aligned with the gearbox sprocket?

Has anyone some experience or ideas about that?

Many thanks and kind regards.

Laurent

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I have done this and fitted one of those hubs to my wideline featherbed. I had the rear sprocket with it, as i also have a belt drive, and had the hub built into a wheel to fit a wideline frame. You can get the wheel builder to build your hub into a wheel to fit a slimline frame with the correct off set. Les Emery told me this could be done and it is not a hard thing todo.

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Does the belt drive primary use a different clutch centre from the original? The pre-commando clutches all had rubber cushions in them to act as dampers. The early Commando had no dampening at all, and used the same rear wheel set up as a featherbed twin - my 1969 S model is like this, and it does not seem unduely hard to ride.

I have read stories about rear wheel spindles on Commandos breaking. They break at the end of the threaded portion where they screw into the stub spindle. I have always thought that this must be caused by flexing of the rubbers where the sprocket/brake drum mounts to the hub. I have never heard of a pre-commando or early Commando rear wheel spindle breaking like this.

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Many thanks for your promt answers Anthony and Colin.

Good point Colin! To be honest, I don't even remember if I kept the original clutch centre when I fitted the RGM belt drive or if anotyher one was provided with the kit, but the thing is that gearing down is not as smooth as before.

To me, it may come from the clutch spring: it's a diaphgram one now (as on Commandos I guess) far less progressive than the 6 original coil springs.

But I'll pay attention to that and to the condition of the rubber cushions (if any!) when I have to visit the primary case (which I'll have to do soon anyway because of a very tired alternator).

Have all a great (riding) W-E

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The Commando cush drive hub has three bearings to help cope with thestress caused by the rubbers moving under load. The third bearing sits in the centre of the brake drum boss adjacent to the dummy spindle. In theory, this set up should be fine. But........... In my experience, the housing for the third bearing is often not well machined (or badly worn) and allowsthis bearingto float about. Consequently dumping the stress back onto the spindle end that it is supposed to be supporting.

Thiscush drivehub will slot into a Featherbed frame but you will probably have to use the Featherbedwheel spindle spacers and make sure that all the sprockets line up correctly.

Mostbelt drive conversion kits (but not all) usually come with their own clutch centres, especially if they use the Commando style plates.

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I am working on the same conversion. Commando owners had no cush drive at all for at least a year, and maybe the Isolastic insulated the riders. I find it very harsh.

Norton later relocated the cush to the rear wheel, surely for a reason.

Every other bike I have ever been familiar with has a cush somewhere in the drive train.

 

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Greetings, I also have a 650SS with the same issue, but I have not been able to complete the restoration for 36  months due to poor health, which (fortunately) is 95% resolved. So my plan is to complete the project this year.

Already spent too much time and copious amounts of cash to get her NOT to  'Conkers' , but an upgraded modern classic, if you know what I mean. Both wheels were built by a specialist in Australia. Now we are home, I need to check EVERYTHING again. Have new central wheels flanged Ali rims, SS spokes etc., and Avon Roadriders, all ready to go. I am concerned with all the "Upgrades" there may be some flaws. No rush, still got loads to do. Please stay upright.

Steve

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Hi Steve,

Still vertical here.

What Steve M says seems to say it can be done, (No cush rubbers)  even using a  chain primary..

On my 1960 Dommie racer, not yet ridden, the cush was an after thought.But many riders claim that the drive belt takes up much of the force the rubbers would have taken. I'll be trying this out before long.

PS: Don't forget that Esso E0 is out there in much of the country, but avoid Tesco Esso as it contains ethanol !

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Morning,

Please keep me posted with the Commando rear wheel in Slimline "Upgrade". 650SS frame & engine (matching numbers), circa 1964.

I am in Cornwall, and as far as I am aware Esso E0 is unobtanium! However, open to being corrected.

Thanks again.

Steve

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It's not  available in Teesside or Scotland either.

Remember, it's all marked up as E5, just to add to the confusion.......

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I have ridden many thousands of miles without realising that there was no cush drive. I have a commando clutch and traditional dommie rear wheel. The only occasional consequence was a momentary lock up of the rear-wheel when changing down quickly. Chain life was adequate, rear wheel bearing life was never an issue. The swinging arm was ex slimline-transferred to wide line-no issue. 

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Greetings all,

OK that's what I thought, will not be riding like a nutter, (sorry squirrels), anyway.

I will sort another hub, pretty sure I have one, but may need some "Dommie" rear brake hardware. I feel an order to AN and Central wheels being cut very soon!

Thanks for all your inputs.

Regards Steve

 

 


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