Clutch dragging 99 dominator

Anthony, from the last upper case sentence on your question, are you asking "Can the problem be the push rod actuation cam lever"?

Well if you are I would say it could be but more likely is that you might not be adjusting the clutch correctly. But just in case here is how to adjust it.

1)Obtain lots of slack on the clutch cable by screwing in the cable adjuster/s

2) Undo the lock nut on the clutch dome push-rod adjuster....then screw the slotted adjuster right in until it butts up to the push rod and stops...then screw back half a turn and then hold this position and tweek up the lock nut.

3) Take up the cable slack with the cable adjusters to leave an 1/8" free movement at the lever....job done.

If clutch is still dragging ....did you oil up the friction and steel plates? If you did this with a generous amount of oil this will cause lots of drag. All you need is a very small film of thin of bicycle oil (3 in 1) So if you did oil them too liberally, wash off all the plates in paraffin, dry them off and reassemble with a very thin smear of thin oil....bet it won't drag then.

Les

Hi Anthony....so from what you say you have not greased the steel and friction plates?...This is important as greasy plates will cause lots of drag.

Also, from the list you have replaced nearly every part with new items. The term "spider" confuses me as we usually use the terms clutch centre or hub and the large outer part is the "basket"...but you have new items for both of these it seems?

The only other thing it might be is that the friction plates are buckled....especially the plain steel ones. Check to see if they are absolutely flat with a steel rule or surface plate any wobble will definitely create drag. Replace with a new set.

The clutch operating cam or lever can wear but after correct adjustment is made the total leverage and movement it makes on the push rod will be still the same. The movement in total is only about 10mm at most...it doesn't need to move much as it just has to hold the pressure back from the the 3 springs. BTW....If you have the wrong springs or have screwed in the 3x screws too much it could be that the springs are becoming coil bound before full release has been made.....this is unlikely though but not impossible....you just need the screw heads flush with the studs.

Another thing to check is to see if the release is lifting squarely.

To do this sit astride the machine (still on centre stand) make sure it's in neutral and then pull in the clutch lever fully and hold it there. Then slowly depress the kickstart lever with your foot and watch to see if the alloy clutch pressure plate spins absolutely true without wobble. If it wobbles you must correct the wobble with the pressure screws but sometimes if it wobbles a lot, a new set of springs will ensure they are all closely matched pressure wise.

Les

I would suggest checking out the gearbox mainshaft bearings for wear. Any movement of this shaft will let the whole clutch basket shift in or out, when the clutch is operated, instead of the pressure plate lifting. You get a similar effect if the nuts on either end of the mainshaft have come loose.

You can do a rough check by grabbing hold of the basket sprocket and pushing and pulling it. Any movement will indicate worn or loose bits somewhere along the shaft.

Hi Tony, Take the clutch off and inspect the back of the new spider again,any sign of contact and thats your problem. Remove spider measure length with caliper and use bench grinder or lathe to remove 10 thou ,refit spider on its own 70 ftpounds and check with feeler gauge for a gap between spider and sleeve gear shoulder. You may need the proper clutch puller to get it off.

It may not be bad manufacture, the orriginal design asks a lot from the engagement of very small shaft spline shoulders and spider ,a bit too much tolerance and a high torque and something has to give. I would use less torque and locktite and a lockwasher that is a close fit to the shaft to provide support to the shoulders . Some spiders have a better design with an uninterupted stop, don't know what they fit though.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what Robert Tuck is suggesting but I can't see that even if the clutch centre hub (spider) IS touching the sleeve gear slightly why this should create drag from the engine into the gearbox..

The clutch is chain driven from the engine sprocket to the toothed clutch basket, and should be free to spin when the clutch is disengaged, leaving the centre hub spider stationary.

The centre hub spider...(the part you say is causing the dragging) should NOT be revolving anyway if the clutch has disengaged correctly. You seem to be saying that the clutch centre hub (spider) is always revolving and might be rubbing on the end of the sleeve gear (gearbox output shaft) but this is not the case when the clutch is disengaged....

Furthermore if the clutch hub is rubbing it cannot turn the sleeve gear or the main shaft as the sleeve gear carries the gearbox sprocket with the chain to the rear wheel. So, when you are stationary the sleeve gear cannot be casually spun round by a rubbing clutch centre hub or you would be moving forward in neutral under its power....In fact any rubbing will actually hold the clutch centre hub even more stationary and assist in the clutch remaining motionless when the clutch is disengaged which will help in first gear engagement.

Les

Not all clutch pushrods are the same length. If this one has been fitted with an inappropriate push rod, it will be near to impossible to adjust correctly.

Hi Les, In practise the clutch hub still turns even when the clutch is lifted ,if this turning is transmitted to the sleeve gear effectively the sleeve gear is now locked to the mainshaft. All I know is that giving a clearance changed my clutch to a working one. It is a bit of a mystery to me too as the thoery and practise seem to be at odd's with each other. I also found that replacement plain plates were a fraction too big in diameter and tended to drag on the inside of the basket if tilted very slightly ,wear marks inside the drum are a clue. perhaps Tony should hang loose till the gearbox guru's have kicked this around for a bit!!.

I agree with everything you say Robert.

Reading Anthony's original question again...(it's easy to stray away from actual details as the thread moves on) the problem started suddenly and was not cured when the clutch was mostly renewed, so maybe the clutch operating lever & roller in the gearbox has broken in some way so although it moves, is not transmitting the full thrust movement to the push rod?

The clutch outer cover is easy enough to remove after the kick-start lever has been removed (gear-lever can stay put....leave in neutral though). I would replace the lever and roller too...don't forget a new gasket when you order.....some oil will be lost too.

Les

PS...I can never get my head around the way the lever pivots on the profile of this lever:

George is right, but also a chain tight spot will rock the basket and cause drag too.