Brake linings

Old Bike Mart lists people who will rivet new linings onto old or newshoes. There is a school of thought (including me) that believesriveted linings are better than bonded as they are less likely to 'unbond'. I riveted my first set of liningsfor my Dad's 1939 Vauxhall 12 when I was 12 - that was 55 years ago! Unless you've got the right tools - lining clamp & punches - it's hardly worth doing it yourself. OK, there will be many "heroes" in the club who willdisagree; but you can not only get your shoes professionally and reliably relined but you can have a choice of the type of lining. E.g. if you only run a few 'show' or Summermiles you're probably best off with soft linings = maximum bite. If you believe in thrashing the living daylights out of your old nail then you'll need hard racing linings - and an up-to-dateWill! (When did you last have your con-rods X-rayed?)

Happy New Year, Lionel

Previously owen_green wrote:

After meny years away from Motor Cycles I have just started to re`build a norton twin, from the wheels up, I used to re`line the brake shoes myself, but now can only seem to find ready made bonded shoes, can you still buy brake linings & rivets to fit yourself, or have I to buy bonded shoes from a supplier ? I would be greatfull for somone to update me.

Two problems with replacement bonded shoes (well 3 if you include the Norvil ones I bought with undersized pivot holes). The bonding can and will detach in time. Bad enough having your rear wheel lock up as has happened to me anddoes not bear thining about with a front wheel. The other is that the linings supplied do seem to be very hard. I would strongly suggest you get themriveted with AM2 or MZ41 linings. Both are very good for normal fast road work.

I agree with Gordon, I would rather fit part worn riveted brake shoes than new bonded. I know that Mick Hemmings provided this service on an exchange basis in the past.

Thanks chaps. I see you're with me on that. I too have heard horror stories about bonded/debonded linings and those that are too hard for normal touring use. Let's face it - when I were a lad I could wind the bike up to the max and legally do the "ton" plus, so harder linings would last longer and work better when hot. With today's road limits at 70mph (Realistically it's normally 80 70mph as a normal cruising speed on clear motorways ) softer linings with a higher coefficient of friction will in some ways help compensate for not having twin discs on your pre-1960 bike.

Gordon should be able to give expert advice on linings required for shepherding across boggy fields and for waist deep snow!

Cheers, Lionel

Can recommend friction qualities of Dunlop safety wellies - allegedly also useful when you catch the sheep too!

Here's the brake shoe I removed from the back of my BSA (the Norton has all rivetted linings) after the lining detached. Note the white furry corrosion where there should have been bonding. Fortunately the lock up happened 5 miles from home on a slow stretch of road so no damage done.

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Can recommend friction qualities of Dunlop safety wellies - allegedly also useful when you catch the sheep too!

Velcro gloves sre useful as well!!

happy new year everyone!

A good example Gordon - not that we need "converting". Bonding by any method relies on the strength of a very thin layer of friction material that the bonding material adheres to - that in itself seems an inexact science. On top of that it needs zero corrosion of the brake shoe itself. Rivets will "nail down" around 1/16" of material I think (haven't got any to hand) so any "glue" would need to penetrate that sort of thickness to be equivalent.The lining material relies on a high shear strength to prevent it from just sliding off, but this is true for any type of lining however it is fixed. I suspect the lack of asbestos is part of the problem.

Cheers, Lionel

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Here's the brake shoe I removed from the back of my BSA (the Norton has all rivetted linings) after the lining detached. Note the white furry corrosion where there should have been bonding. Fortunately the lock up happened 5 miles from home on a slow stretch of road so no damage done.

I have used a company called SAFTEK for vintage bike and car relining for many years without problems. They understand vintage vehicle technical needs, and also know how to bond linings properly! They tell me that alloy shoes need to be prepared carefully as any damp or corrosion will destroy the bond, so avoid the cheapies.It's your neck!