650SS

Hello Rajly,

Easy ones: The centre stand top spring mounting attaches on a fixing that goes into a hole in the left hand engine plate, near the highest point.. (On the inside) Held on with a nut. You should be able to identify the hole in the plate.

There is a large rubber primary chain case sealing band that fits between the inner and outer cases. Two points: 1) Make sure you have the oil seal the right way around and 2) Do not over tighten the chain case when tightening the centrenut. Good idea to use a soft mallet to ensure the outer case is seated properly.

Both parts are available.

Hi,

don't know if you know but the spring does not go directly on to the stand, there is also a hook, these are also freely available it is a very powerful spring, I use a rope and a crowbar to pull it up and hook it on.

Hope this helps,

cheers,

Niall

Previously rajiv_raghavan wrote:

Thank you very much Neil , much appreciated

Cheers

Rajiv

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Hello Rajly,

Easy ones: The centre stand top spring mounting attaches on a fixing that goes into a hole in the left hand engine plate, near the highest point.. (On the inside) Held on with a nut. You should be able to identify the hole in the plate.

There is a large rubber primary chain case sealing band that fits between the inner and outer cases. Two points: 1) Make sure you have the oil seal the right way around and 2) Do not over tighten the chain case when tightening the centrenut. Good idea to use a soft mallet to ensure the outer case is seated properly.

Both parts are available.

Hi

I am currently doing a Norton 600ss,I have the engine plates off with the bolt for the spring attached,I can send a photo if you want?This would give you a better idea of which hole you need to use for the said bolt.

Previously rajiv_raghavan wrote:

Thank you very much Neil , much appreciated

Cheers

Rajiv

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Hello Rajly,

Easy ones: The centre stand top spring mounting attaches on a fixing that goes into a hole in the left hand engine plate, near the highest point.. (On the inside) Held on with a nut. You should be able to identify the hole in the plate.

There is a large rubber primary chain case sealing band that fits between the inner and outer cases. Two points: 1) Make sure you have the oil seal the right way around and 2) Do not over tighten the chain case when tightening the centrenut. Good idea to use a soft mallet to ensure the outer case is seated properly.

Both parts are available.

rajly.try using the rubber chain case seal as you,ve been advised to do.but i,ve found the best way to cure oil leaks is fit a belt drive

i,ve three nortons and all have belt drives. i use them regular and i find it the best way to go.i,ve not had the cover of my es2 for three

years.and for those how like to keep it british you can get one from sunny liecestershire.works every time.good luck ...tony

Previously rajiv_raghavan wrote:

Thank you very much Neil , much appreciated

Cheers

Rajiv

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Hello Rajly,

Easy ones: The centre stand top spring mounting attaches on a fixing that goes into a hole in the left hand engine plate, near the highest point.. (On the inside) Held on with a nut. You should be able to identify the hole in the plate.

There is a large rubber primary chain case sealing band that fits between the inner and outer cases. Two points: 1) Make sure you have the oil seal the right way around and 2) Do not over tighten the chain case when tightening the centrenut. Good idea to use a soft mallet to ensure the outer case is seated properly.

Both parts are available.

rajly.try using the rubber chain case seal as you,ve been advised to do.but i,ve found the best way to cure oil leaks is fit a belt drive

i,ve three nortons and all have belt drives. i use them regular and i find it the best way to go.i,ve not had the cover of my es2 for three

years.and for those how like to keep it british you can get one from sunny liecestershire.works every time.good luck ...tony

Drive belts are defeating the objective of sealing a oil bath chain case where you can seal a oil bath very well if you know the trick of the trade Yours Anna J

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

Previously anthony_williams wrote:

Previously rajiv_raghavan wrote:

Thank you very much Neil , much appreciated

Cheers

Rajiv

Previously neil_wyatt wrote:

Hello Rajly,

Easy ones: The centre stand top spring mounting attaches on a fixing that goes into a hole in the left hand engine plate, near the highest point.. (On the inside) Held on with a nut. You should be able to identify the hole in the plate.

There is a large rubber primary chain case sealing band that fits between the inner and outer cases. Two points: 1) Make sure you have the oil seal the right way around and 2) Do not over tighten the chain case when tightening the centrenut. Good idea to use a soft mallet to ensure the outer case is seated properly.

Both parts are available.

rajly.try using the rubber chain case seal as you,ve been advised to do.but i,ve found the best way to cure oil leaks is fit a belt drive

i,ve three nortons and all have belt drives. i use them regular and i find it the best way to go.i,ve not had the cover of my es2 for three

years.and for those how like to keep it british you can get one from sunny liecestershire.works every time.good luck ...tony

Drive belts are defeating the objective of sealing a oil bath chain case where you can seal a oil bath very well if you know the trick of the trade Yours Anna J

anna.

your right to say fitting of drive belts is defeating the object.

but thats what i want to do is defeat the object in the simplest of ways.

means more time riding my norton.

I have to say i have had no problems with the standard set-up over the last 50 years,I have heard of owners ditching the belt drive after unrelible service, If i was going to spend lots of lolly on a belt drive I would expect a fully developed product with a money back guarantee.My experiance of aftermarket parts has not been good.

Robert, I have chains on all my primaries. The splitlink came off on my 16Hback in 1999 but that was an easy fix.

After 30,000 miles, the triplex chain on my Mk3 Commando started clunking. I called Less Emery and he said £50 for a new Renoldtriplex chain or £450for a belt drive. The chain had never given any trouble and the sprockets were in good order so it was a no brainer. After talking to Simon Ratcliffe (I do miss his comments) I found that I could have run that chain for longer.

I have known quite a few 'elastic bands' breaking and how do you fix it away from home? Can't beat a small tin of links and an extractor!

I have to say i have had no problems with the standard set-up over the last 50 years,I have heard of owners ditching the belt drive after unreliable service, If i was going to spend lots of lolly on a belt drive I would expect a fully developed product with a money back guarantee.My experience of after-market parts has not been good.

Well I must say after 40 years of riding Norton Heavy twins I never had that much problem with the old system and it needs its share of maintenance and love and care and it will keep going with no troubles, so what not broken you do not have to fix and I have seen many belt drive motorcycle at the side of the road and they cannot do anything to get them selfs home, with the chain if it breaks I have in my tool kit under the seat a spare spit links and these are far better to carry than a spare belt . and modern stuff is not always the best, and if you always have a good tools kit and some spare to get you home in one peace, So far I have never needed it but its reinsuraing too know you have something too fall back on if needed this is good boy scout stuff or in my case girl guide stuff!! yours anna j

Spare belts cost next to nothing,are easy to carry on a trip, and can be fitted in minets. The PO of my model 19R fitted one and its a nice oil free, smooth, light, no slip bit of kit.

I cant imagine many people would be able to repair a chain primery on the side of the road either. ( how many of us carry the tools needed to get the clutch off?)

iv rode with Anthony for plenty of thousands of miles and he has never had a problem with his belts. Even if he did, he would have the spare on within 15 minets- job done with clean fingers.

Iv got a chain on my Commando just because Iv never bothered to change it, but the plates need cleaning every year or two, and its by no means oil tight.

You pays your money and takes your choise.

never had a problem with my belt drive i have never seen someone stranded on the side of the road with a broken belt drive! i alwas carry a spare because they are small and light but have never needed it ,i will stick to the old ways of using a belt drive that was out way before these new fangled high mantenance messy chains came along regards nick

Spare belts cost next to nothing,are easy to carry on a trip, and can be fitted in minets. The PO of my model 19R fitted one and its a nice oil free, smooth, light, no slip bit of kit.

I cant imagine many people would be able to repair a chain primery on the side of the road either. ( how many of us carry the tools needed to get the clutch off?)

iv rode with Anthony for plenty of thousands of miles and he has never had a problem with his belts. Even if he did, he would have the spare on within 15 minuets- job done with clean fingers.

Iv got a chain on my Commando just because Iv never bothered to change it, but the plates need cleaning every year or two, and its by no means oil tight.

You pays your money and takes your choose.

Well Peter what do you need to take the clutch off for too change out a spilt link , So what wrong with undoing the three clutch springs then the plates and then the clutch basket with it sprocket on then you can if the chain easy and fit it all back a 15 to 20 minute job even on the road side if you get your bike some where safe first, to do the job , and what space dose a split link take up, in your tools kit , far less space than a drive belt , I know, so then there you are, Yours Anna J

Spare belts cost next to nothing,are easy to carry on a trip, and can be fitted in minuets. The PO of my model 19R fitted one and its a nice oil free, smooth, light, no slip bit of kit.

I cant imagine many people would be able to repair a chain primary on the side of the road either. ( how many of us carry the tools needed to get the clutch off?)

iv rode with Anthony for plenty of thousands of miles and he has never had a problem with his belts. Even if he did, he would have the spare on within 15 minuets- job done with clean fingers.

Iv got a chain on my Commando just because Iv never bothered to change it, but the plates need cleaning every year or two, and its by no means oil tight.

You pays your money and takes your choice.