1954/1955 Dominator 88 - New owner

Hi Rich, One point, is it a ?54 model (with iron head, and bolt on rear sub frame) or, the ?55, with several minor differences?

Hi John,

Correction after checking all the info I got.

I had asked Mr. Seifert at Norton GmbH, the records search here, as well as VMCC, all confirming production was 09.10.1953.

But was sold and first registered somewhere after 01.04.1955.

Rich

Hi again Rich, You are a lucky man! You have one of the best Dominators ever built, before AMC started cutting corners, to save a few pence, and trying to boost performance (to match their arch rivals Triumph.

The 500 cc motor was now highly stress, and, with the iron head, ran smoothly, with less vibration than later models. The top speed (not that I suggest using it, on such a classic bike) should be a touch over 90 m.p.h. quite fast enough, off motorways, and the handling superb.

You may be interested to know, you can get a photo copied manual from the British National Motorcycle Museum. Although a few small items, from the original, are missing, it is one of the very few manuals available for this model.

Being built in October ?53, it is probably a ?54 model, with the slightly better 8" front brake.

I know it is along way from Dresden to Belgium, but, if you can make the International Rally I would love to see your bike, and compare it to my ?54 88.

Regards, John.

Hello Anna and John,Re: production date - ibwas not aware of this method you mentioned Anna. I figured Mr. Seifert would be pretty knowledgeable as he has helped me a lot with great advice throughout my Commando work, as well as owning the records. But I'll check it out next time I get the tank off. Re: John - good to hear a message of positive confidence in my new (to me) bike. I wish it was all original. But it was Fitted with period BSA Rocket Gold Star front brake being 190 mm and a 1956 AMC gear box which Norton fitted in 1956. Other than that, the bike was fully restored with detail pictures and documents. I would love to be at the rally, but with two little boys both under 3 years old, it'll be hard to get a free pass to go riding for a week and leave the family behind.In regards to the bike , the questions begins. I took it out in the city for a ride today, it had all gone very well for the 20mins ride to my destination. On the way back, probably 2 mins away from home, the bike idles a bit weird and dies at the lights. Couldn't get it to start for about 20 minutes, then all of the sudden it kicked over again. I figured it's a carb issue at this stage. So I first check the spark plugs when I got home. They were both black. Which to me means too rich. So needle DOWN one clip perhaps? And maybe pilot jet is blocked a bit? Would I need to take the entire carb off for cleaning? Thanks.Rich.

Bad behavour when warm is often the magneto acting up which would also dirty up the plugs. Sometimes its just a too rich mixture which is helpfull when cold but soon soots up the plugs when hot. Put in some new plugs and repeat the exercise and when the bike wont start take out the plugs and kick over with a new plug held against the head and look for a nice blue spark ,if its not there ,its ignition, most likely the mag condenser.

Rich, has your bike been rebuilt with an iron, or alloy head? If iron, check to see if you have steel, or alloy, pushrods. Steel rods were used with the iron head, alloys expand more when hot, and you lose valve clearance. You CAN use alloy pushrods, but, valve clearance should be increased to 6 thou inlet, and 8 exhaust. I had the same symptom you describe. Spent hours adjusting ignition timing, and carb, before Phil Hannam put me right.

Sorry to be a "Doomer" Rich. Being built in October ?53, your bike could be an early ?54 model. It would not originally had an alloy cylinder head. What is the engine number? The ?54 model would be stamped J122, with the serial number above. Being over 60 years old, many non standard, or later parts may have been used when it was rebuilt. I use NGK B6HS plugs, and, despite some enthusiastic use, these have not been changed for over 12 years.

You are bound to have "teething problems" with a bike of this age, but if you persevere, it will be worth it. A good Dominator should run smoother, and require less maintenance than a Commando. However it will never have such a brutal surge of power.

Hi Robert and John,

Thanks for your replies.

I assumed also it was running rich, so I dropped the needle down on clip. The bike wasn't happy with this at all. Sluggish on pull away and coughed with throttle and pilot screw adjusted.

So went back to middle clip, cleaned out the carbs as much as I can. I ran good again. Tho it is hard to tell if it is the ignition fault at the moment, as I have no new spark plugs available.

Speaking of spark plugs - what is recommended?

Re: John - I have also checked while cleaning the carb. I have a T2225 on the head, which means an alloy head. So assuming this, should I be using a Champion N5C / NGK B6ES with 0.020" gap as recommended? Right now, N5C are on there. And they seems hard to come by.

As for the push rods, I wouldn't have a clue what was put on, I'm again assuming now knowing it's a alloy head, that the previous owner had put in alloy rods too?

In other questions - the clutch is very heavy on the bike. The bite limit is also very small. I also have to open my hand fully to feel the clutch bite, is they normal? I also find it hard to find neutral as well, having to keep looking down to double check. I took the Commando out after a short ride on the Dominator, and my word... The Commando is soooooo smooth compared to the Dominator. Tho riding position on the Dominator is brilliant, much more aggressive than my other bikes. Almost feel like a chopper.

Thanks again.

Rich.

B6HS is a 1/2" reach suitable for iron heads, B6ES is 3/4" reach, suitable for aluminium heads only. NGK are excellent in my experience and last for years.

Previously richard_chan wrote:

Hi again everyone,Bike registered and on road, now for the tuning it needs.I have checked on the bike - it has a AMAL 376/77 carb on it. Which from what I gather, is for a T100.I've emailed AMAL, they suggest that a 376/19 is for the Dominator, but on their website, it is listed for 1955-1956.Does anyone (John and Anna maybe) know the correct carb for the 1954?I'm wondering why they went to a different number carb tbh...

Thanks again

Rich

For 1951 to 1954, they used a (2)?76 amal , 1" choke with 170 main jet, 3 1/2 cutaway slide, Needle position 2, Needle jet, .107

From 1955 to 1963, they used the ,then new, 376 monoblock with 1"choke, 240 Main jet, 30 pilot jet,3 1/2 Slide, Needle position 2, Needle jet .106

Hope this helps.

Don't forget that these jet sizes etc. were set for fuels which differ quie s lot from those available today.

Hi, yet again Rich. The original 276 Amal is still available, but, at a price! (almost 100 pounds more than the 376 monobloc, plus tax). Since you already have a later cylinder head, it would be pointless fitting the older type carb.

Hi,

I can't find these small dating numbers on mine. perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place ? I don't want to go scraping paint of randomly ... any chance of a pic / sketch showing location please ? :) Mne is a black frame Domi 88 reg Jan 1954. It's not been on the road since 1963 ... so plenty to do. All original as my late dad was the original owner. Engine is J122. 55XXX

Thanks in advance

Check out the attachments.

The Frame year of manufacture should be on the top edge of the Head Steady Bracket.

The Frame number should be on the left hand side bracket the Swinging Arm is attached to. 

Both can be hard to find under fresh thick paint.

Anna; doesn't the lug stamp refer to the frame build date rather than the finished article?  Who applied the stamp Norton or Reynolds??

Just curious...

Stay safe

Jon

Jon, I think you will find that the date was applied by the frame manufacturer and is when the frame was made .           Stan Dibben assured me this was correct when I spoke to him concerning my 51 Featherbed.