Should Start. Won’t Start. Help.

Think it on the wrong clock. Although the engine runs clockwise,the ignition runs anti clock due to the timing gears .

hello, in the pazon booklet i have. it says remove the advance retard unit and replace with solid type.
think i welded mine

has it the self test when flicking the trigger wires together on and off. to see if theres a spark.
barry

hello,
not a pazon, but had trouble timing my thorspark ign .set on the timing mark it wouldnt start .it just kept trying to throw me over next doors when it backfired. i ended up using a mirror and my timing light on a mounting facing the bike, towards the crank so as to see where about the timing mark was. it was a mile out. so adjusted to suit. it started straight away. like you say the pazon isnt that fussy it should go.

barry

If you are content with the direction of travel and set up the appropriate advance are you on the correct HT contact for the cylinder that is on the compression stroke? 180 out ?

Wasted spark means that both ignition coils fire at the same time, most likely 2 off 6V coils in series running on 12V.. Both ignition coils firing at the same time means there is no longer any left/right with ignition. But be aware that the ignition point you set on the Boyer Bransden, Pazon, and others and Lucas RITA is for the firing point to be in front of the pickup coil, bear in mind the direction of rotation. So ignition timing point is in front of the coil. Ie anti or clock is not relevant as long as the rotating bit is in FRONT of the coil.

You have it timed on the wrong position . Switch to anti clock .

'So as long as the spark is delivered on the compression phase and before' yes but this is nothing to do with the 'orange' button on the Pazon being 'in front' of the pickup. This being in front gives you the advance curve and is the trigger point for the ignition.
Now the white mark on the stator? What does this mean?

Hello Kit, as has been pointed-out, the timing rotor/camshaft on all Norton Heavy Twins rotate anti-clockwise as it is chain-driven from the intermediate gear and therefore should be set accordingly. The way you currently have it set-up would probably result in the occasional back-fire due to residual fuel mixture build-up following numerous kicks (I experienced similar in the past!).

Clockwise rotation was/is a feature of Triumph Twins due to their camshaft(s) being gear-driven. 

Good luck!

I imagine the 'white mark' referred to is to accentuate the 32 degree BTDC position (easier to see with a strobe light). It might be worth doing the same to the mark on the alternator rotor as it all helps to make things more visible when adjusting the timing (try and keep the line/marking narrow to reduce any errors).

Just a thought ... .

Do NOT imagine!

'Hello Kit, as has been pointed-out, the timing rotor/camshaft on all Norton Heavy Twins rotate anti-clockwise'
The camshaft rotates anti clock from the RHS, This is an SS/Atlas timing is behind the engine.

Clock/Anti-clock does not matter. The ignition point is with the 'Orange button' screw head, or reluctor tip APPROACHING the coil.

hello,
try a tdc tool . then see where the marks lineup then.

barry

valve timing ok

Lots of comments stating that pre-timing cover ignition - i.e. any engine with magneto or points behind the cylinders - rotated anti-clockwise. Yea, when viewed from the timing cover side, the sprocket does rotate anti-clockwise. But when viewing the points (or electronic ignition rotor) the cam/rotor rotates clockwise.

With fuel and sparks present, my first thought was ignition 180 deg out, but if electronic ignition with wasted sparks, as already said, that would not matter - assuming both sides are sparking. What about trying an easy start spray just to see if the fuel is perhaps not being drawn through correctly? Use it after making sure any residual fuel has evaporated and the plugs are dry.

Kit, can you confirm that the valve timing is set with the crankshaft timing marks in the correct positions as I could not tell from the recent photo you have posted.

And 90% of ignition faults are caused by the carburettor...and vice versa...

Is the central gear aligned correctly on the crank? The alignment marks are invisible behind the chain and need to be supplemented with paint.

Also...how did you establish top dead centre accurately? (Sorry if that's been asked.. this thread is getting very long...)

"Start of plateau' might be very misleading. The most accurate method is usually to fit a degree wheel and split the difference between when the piston touches the stop. On.the other hand..if it's too far advanced it should kick back of course. And too far retarded it ought to start but run sluggish and hot.
Do you live near a Branch group? A conversation with someone who's familiar with these things might be more help. My bet is the (hidden) timing marks on the crank and half time pinion aren't matched together.

I think you said it sparks on both plugs when you switch it off?

... switching the plug wires around.
Distributor turns anti-clockwise looking from the timing side, clockwise from the engine primary drive side.

This is wasted spark ie both cylinders fire at once ie at the same time. There is no distributor. The turning direction takes care of it self, turn the engine slowly, note which direction the rotating 'orange button' goes and make sure it is in FRONT of the Pick-Up coil! at the moment you want the engine to fire ie 32Deg BTDC.