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Wideline - Worn S/A Gusset Plate Holes

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I have a 56 Wideline 99 Dominator and on stripping the S/A arm out I have noted that the gusset plates are worn with around 0.75 - 1.00 mm play which means the spindle is sloppy in the mount. It appears the whole spindle has been rotating in the whole at some point.

Are there any solutions to this? Is it possible to repair/make good the holes for the S/A or am I stick with what I have?

Seems to be a common theme on this bike as the shock mount holes are worn oval too!

Any advise welcome.

Al

 

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The spindle bolt should tightly squeeze the frame gusset plates on each side of the centre steel tube in the Silentbloc bushes. So the fact that there might be some clearance in the hole ought not to matter. The spindle should be tightened when the suspension is part deflected so the bushes have least stress when loaded.

If the gussets are badly worn, they might need repair. No doubt others who have been faced with the problem will advise. It could be reamed and a top hat washer used, but that washer must not turn with the spindle so it would not be advisable. Any central raised portion of the washer must only to be deep enough to centre the spindle. It must not prevent the gusset plate from being pinched hard. I think such a washer would be inadvisable.

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I suppose if a close fit  washer was tack welded to the gusset that would solve the issue .It may look a little non std but only needs to be as big as the nut/spindle head and would not need to be top hat. .

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Thanks for the replies. Just need to find someone in the Northwest who  can do the frame work for me I guess. Any recommendations?

I have shock absorber holes and the SA gusset plates to have repaired, along with a few other bits.

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On my wideline I found that the drive side swinging arm spindle hole was oval in the gusset plate and the silent block bushes had worn deep grooves into the insides of both the gussets.  No matter what I tried - without resorting to brute force on the spindle nuts - I couldn't get the silent block bushes to have their centres locked up on the spindle as there was too much clearance between the plates .  One way may have been to make a slightly longer bush spacer for the centre inside the swinging arm, but I bit the bullet and had the holes and grooves welded up.  I then dressed up both gusset plates and re-drilled the swinging arm spindle holes using a template.  Perfect :)

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Thanks for that Bob. Really appreciate you sharing that. I have exactly the same issue but was a bit nervous about having the welding up done and re-drilling but that does seem like the best option.

I plan to convert from the Silent !@#% bushes to the Manx Steel/Phosphor Bronze bush setup which seems much more engineered. This leaves a decent machined face against the gusset plate and allows things to pivot more smoothly.

Could I ask who you got to do your welding work?

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hello just where are you in the North West As RGM Motors dose this type of service  Or you can always bring it to me  I am a coded welder and a ex-marine engineer now retired and I have Arch Mig And Gas welding Equipment and have mill drill and ten inch swing over bed Atlas Lathe And live in east yorkshire  just a mile out side howden   I do not charge for work to any member only charge materials used in any operation now its up to you , yours  anna j  

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Hi Alistair

I used Exact Weld in East Grinstead to fill the holes and grooves in my gusset plates - about £35 - but please don't quote me!

I too started out with a ' Manx Steel/Phosphor Bronze bush setup' and found it to be woefully ill conceived for my application........ the manx setup really needed to be line reamed and with precision lateral shimming for it to work well, so I reverted to more of a standard setup and couldn't be more pleased with the result.

 



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