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Dominator rear brake switch

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Good evening all,

First off, just renewed my membership on the basis of all the help and support I have received from the club over the last three years. My thanks to you all.

I am restoring my Dommie and it had a aftermarket brake light switch that was so cheap it fell apart. I ordered a new switch from Andover Norton together with the bracket. I can see how it bolts on but could anybody explain how it works!.   

There is no switch to make or break the circuit?. Apologies if I have missed the point?. Again any help would be appreciated in full.   

Thanks again

Steve

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With a spring, one end on the switch, the other end clamped to the brake rod. Two holes for bullet connectors. When braking, the spring pulls the "metal blade" so that the switch closes.

If I remember correct, was more than half a century since last fitted one. Might have been that the switch is closed when the the spring don't pull.

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Correct me if I am wrong but I believe that the switch form is what is called "Normally Closed"

At rest the tab on the brake rod presses the switch to an open or off position.

When the brake pedal is pressed down the tab on the rod is moved forward  letting the spring that is internal in the switch to press the contacts closed and thus turning on the brake light.

All the above is in reference to a featherbed unit.

Mike

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The correct switch  "should be" availiable from Norton stockists , Lucas No 31383, The more common Triumph type which looks similar  won't work without a tricky strip and modifications.Pattern switches can be found . The correct switch is push in for off  on the left side and electric connections under the front.

In reply to by michael_sullivan

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Michael is correct in his description.  The plate that is screwed onto the front end of the brake rod holds the switch 'blade' in when not in use.  This is the "Off" position.  I enclose a photo that I have just pinched of the internet.  This is looking at the bottom.  The left end of the blade is pushed in against an internal spring when the brake is off.  When you press the pedal down the blade moves forward and switches on.  The trouble is that there are also switches which look identical but are in the normally "Off" position.  You just need to check with the seller which type he has.

The beauty of the Norton switch system is that it is elegant, without clunky external spring and clamp to go on the frame tube - horrible!  All the correct parts are available from new.

The switch is mounted on a small plate which is fixed by the left-hand pillion footrest.

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Soorry Lionel,Mikael ,is talking about something else, read it again.  The switch you show is the correct one though.  Some later featherbeds were fitted with pull on switches just to add to the confusion.

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Obviosly there are a number of different brake switches, used on different models and years. Not to add to the confusion, please state model and year of your bikes when starting a thread.

Humbly, Mike

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I wish I could buy one! They can be left handed, right handed, normal on and normal off. In my experience vendors don't know what they are selling, and the last time I tried to convert one it all went horribly wrong. Mikael describes the one I want for 1963 machine.

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Hi David,  There are some new old stock ones on E-bay   but the price is ridiculous. You can buy fair quality pattern ones . But as you say mistakes are common. The one on my 99 is one of those "mistakes" by  a Norton specialist  It took some ingenuity to re-configure it . Not recommended!   Try.Classic Bike Shop item 101235 £16.50 look a good bet. Also RGM.

I was right Robert.  My response was to Michael's description of the operation.  The "normally closed" switches were used on Wideline Featherbed Dommies as they had the operating 'blade' at the front end of the brake rod.  I have 3 of them!  2 pattern and one original - all different but all normally closed (ON).  I still have the original switch for my 1959 99 and it works, although it looks pretty tatty..

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The switch is always covered in gritty crap  from the rear wheel and the grit eventually wears away the plastic body where the slide runs through. A wrap of innertube rubber doubles the switch life. My 1960 one is still working on the boys Atlas.Lucas stuff better than modern flimsy rubbish. The BMW 1200 has had both bar switches replaced under guarantee.

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This is the one that 'was' on my 1960 '99' until it fell to bits. I pinched the photo off the Lucas web site. It's the 31383 Lucas 22B Brake Light Switch (Push On) Lucas WW11031L version,

The Pull On is listed as  31437 Lucas 22B Brake Light Switch (Pull On) Lucas WW11042L

Hope it helps

John

WW11031L

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The Lucas description of "Pull-on" and "Push-on" is almost worthless as it still doesn't say which one is "normally closed" i.e. "On".  A better description is the one used by Motorcycles Products Ltd. - their switch is a replica and only costs £10.44.  They describe it as "Push-off", which is exactly right for the Dommies.  The brake pedal pushes the switch off when not in use.

In reply to by fritz_wettstein

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Hi Fritz

Many thanks for your reply, spot on thanks for the photo. All working now thanks again.

Cheers

Steve

In reply to by lionel_yexley

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Lots of knowlegeable people on this thread.

Just for my clarification, if I look at the picture of the Lucas 31383 above, do I presume that, as shown in the picture, the switch is "closed" ie on?

If so would it be correct to say that if fitted to a Dominator with a blade on the front clevis fork on the brake rod, the 31383 shown(in the picture) should be fitted "upside down" so that the blade on the clevis fork brake rod end pushes the "hooked" end of the switch in when the brake pedal is at rest, thus "opening" the switch ie off?

Lots of recognised sellers of classic bike stuff on Ebay are quoting 31383 for all big Triumph twins which is contrary to the advice on this thread. One however quotes  Norton 88s and 99s plus 3TA and 5TA so that one may be correct.

All advice gratefully received.

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You are correct in the way you describe the fitting of the  photographed switch and yes the lucas "scroll" would be upside down. With the switch not fitted to the bike the contacts are in the ON position and when  the fitted switch is held against the spring by the clevis tab the switch is OFF. The wire entry is always underneath . On the orriginal wiring the switch is always live the same as the hooter. The upside down scroll of the new (pattern!!) switch is confusing. Getting the correctly bent dog leg bracket helps but the adjustment positioning of the switch is fiddly.

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You are correct in the way you describe the fitting of the  photographed switch and yes the lucas "scroll" would be upside down. With the switch not fitted to the bike the contacts are in the ON position and when  the fitted switch is held against the internal  spring by the clevis tab the switch is OFF. The wire entry is always underneath . On the orriginal wiring the switch is always live the same as the hooter. The upside down scroll of the new (pattern!!) switch is confusing. Getting the correctly bent dog leg bracket helps but the adjustment positioning of the switch is fiddly.   I have not bought a new switch for yonks and its entirely possible that the "Lucas?" manufacturer is now getting things mixed up ,may be better to buy at a Jumble stall where you can inspect properly!.

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Robert and David,

Thanks very much for the swift confirmation of the direction of fitting and the advice to take a meter to check

 

 


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