Need some closeup photos of the rear wheel spacing and nut fastening to frame . My wheel seems a little off center . Also a photo of the rear brake pedal pivot point . Thanks Guy
I don't have any identical…
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Mine has 13 mm from the main…
Mine has 13 mm from the main flat face of the brake plate to the inside edge of the left lug and 49mm from the flat spoke flange face of the right to the inside of the right axle lug.
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Blimey! That is YELLOW! Can…
Blimey! That is YELLOW! Can't wait to see that finished.
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Wheel alignment,.
Hi from my experience, it would appear that the brake plate it slightly too far out from the drum, rectify this first by adjusting the internal spacer inside of brake plate , i am presuming you have access to a lathe, next , rig up a slack line running fore and aft along the bike, ensure the frame is vertical ( using a spirit level),
Rig up three plumblines from the slack line and ensure the one at the front end is central on the front tyre , the next plumb should be made central on the steering head, so you have two referencepoints , the final plumb line should fall central to the rear tyre, if not, after adjusting your brake plate spacer as earlier, adjust the offset of the rim by slacking of slightly the spokes and tightening the opposite side spokes until all is central and alligned, sounds complicated but it is not really, it worked for me, good luck, Jim Hill
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Are you sure the wheel is…
Are you sure the wheel is parallel to the frame? It doesn't look to be far out on the LHS at the spindle (or within a millimetre or two) but to the right at the top of the wheel. Might the rear drop outs be bent to the right a bit - perhaps from previous sidecar use?
As Richard's picture shows, it's not all that easy to repeat your main picture once it's all assembled. But you can't move your hub more than a couple more millimetres to the left if you want the chain guard to fit.
Looks beautiful!
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Rear wheel off-set.
Hi Guy,
The spacer on the hub side looks like the correct one, but looking at the photo taken from the rear it looks like the wheel rim has been built central to the hub flanges when it should have an off-set. This is to allow the rim to run in line with the top tube and allow for the width of the brake drum. If this is the case, the spokes on the brake side will need shortening and you will need longer spokes on the other side, so a new half set of spokes and a rebuild will be required.
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Coincidentally, this week I…
Coincidentally, this week I cut the hub out of an irretrievable 16H rim. Before the surgery I measured the offset from the drive side bearing flange (thanks Richard!) , it was 1" and 1/8".
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Alan and Richard have it…
Alan and Richard have it. The WD Norton manual freely available on line says "a straight edge placed across the end of the hub in which the single row bearing us fitted should give a measurement of 1 +3/8in.from straight edge to the edge of the rim"
And front and rear are identical and interchangeable.
Spoke lengths are given as
8/10 IWG butted 8-1/32" and 8-5/32" with 90 degree heads. 20 of each.
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Sorry, Adam! My poor excuse…
Sorry, Adam! My poor excuse is for posting from a tiny screen on a mobile phone...that and age-related short term memory loss...plus fat fingers
I wonder if Guy has the WD manual?
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No problem David, I've been…
No problem David, I've been called worse than that. Guy now has (hopefully) the offset figures for both sides of the rim. He could possibly check the offside offset without taking the wheel out.
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16h rear wheel
Thanks to all for the help ! Think I got it figured out . Great forum!
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I don't have any identical angles on file. Do these help at all ? Yours doesn't look too far off, but the wheel doesn't look straight in the frame slots.
Your brake pedal pivot looks as I'd expect it to. Only a pre-restoration photo of mine.