English French German Italian Spanish

Cylinder head nuts and bolts. Oil filters. Oil warming.

Submitted by jonathan_white on Tuesday, 22 January, 2019 - 16:52
Forums
Heavy Twins

1.Not being very mechanical could somebody please sort me out on cylinder head nut and bolt size for an 88SS. I want to re-torque the head. The Haynes manual gives:

          3/8 inch nuts and bolts 30 lb ft .     5/16 inch bolts   20 lb ft.                                                                                                                                                                       

I have attached a picture of the cylinder head with the torque tightening sequence. If somebody could assign sizes to the numbers on the diagram I would be mighty grateful.

2. I would like to attach an oil filter to the bike and would welcome any advice or photos of such an installation.

3.I noticed quite a bit of emulsified oil in the tank after short runs or runs in cold weather. I tried putting a fish tank heater in the oil before a run. This will heat the oil to a maximum of 32 C. While not curing the problem it reduced the amount of emulsified oil produced. For less than £10 and a couple of minutes work per ride it's worth a go. The only mistake I made was buying a heater slightly too large so it is not immersed far enough into the oil. This causes the thermostat to cut-out too early. A quick stir brings the heater back on.

           

Attachments
cylinder head torque.jpg

Submitted by kevin_bell on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 10:57

Permalink

Hi Jonathan

I'm surprised nobody has come back to you yet. From the Haynes manual, the head bolts are the same from 500-750cc, so my 650SS has all 3/8 except for 9 and 10. It is highly likely that yours will be the same, although I stand open to correction! Good luck with torquing numbers 2, 7 and 8 - I'm blowed if I can get a torque wrench on them :-D

Can't help with your other queries though - maybe someone else will be along later.

ATB

Kevin

Submitted by jonathan_white on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 11:11

Permalink

Many thanks for the info; I was beginning to think there was no one out there. I have an ex mechanic friend who is happy to rely on his arm to torque so he can do 2, 7 and 8.

 

 Jonathan.

Submitted by kevin_bell on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 16:39

Permalink

:-D

Send him up here when he's finished with yours!

 

Kevin

Submitted by peter_banks on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 16:51

Permalink

I would be very careful with the fish tank heater as the ones I have had are all thin glass walled . You don't want to be fishing broken glass out of the bottom of the oil tank , or getting an electric shock. :(

Submitted by david_cooper on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 12:48

Permalink

Re: oil filter - I used a stainless steel bracket from Norvil.  It holds the cartridge behind the gearbox.  It clamps to the frame cross tube in front of the rear wheel, and it's fairly obvious once you have the kit.  It fits along with the standard mudguard so no modifications were needed.

The worst part of the job was finding the tidiest way to run the pipes.  They loop around over the box, and I'm forever checking they aren't becoming chafed through, and I needed more pipe length than Norvil provided with the kit.  I'd be interested to see if others have run theirs the same way.  I'll find a photo if you want.

A little thing to worry about is that, because the filter is on the return, it takes ages for the oil to start to return to the tank when the system is empty - so if you've done any work on the engine, or even changed the filter, there's a lot of nervous waiting involved looking for oil after the restart.  Logic tells me that the oil pump sends it straight into the engine.

The cartridge is screwed on in the normal manner, but it also has a Jubilee clip round it and a steel tab.  I think I read somewhere that this arrived after some factory-fitted ones fell off Commandos onto the road, with exciting consequences.

Submitted by jonathan_white on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 16:08

Permalink

Thank you for the details of your installation. I would appreciate a photo of the pipework. I had a look at the Norvil website. They show the filter fitted sideways. After your comments I wonder if it could be fitted upright. It would then be possible to fill it with oil before screwing it in. On initial start up the oil would return much quicker to the tank.

Submitted by david_cooper on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 17:33

Permalink

I'll have to dig out a photo after I get home.  I don't think it can go upright without worries about ground clearance and I'm not sure about the shape of the space.

Submitted by bob_matthews on Friday, 25 January, 2019 - 20:23

Permalink

I made my own bracket for the oil filter which sits behind the gearbox and is mounted vertically.

Vertical mounting makes good sense to me as you don't spill any oil when you remove it and when you you fit the new one, you fill it full of oil before winding it on.

 

Attachments
IMG_2147.JPG
IMG_2158.JPG

Yes standard chaincase and seeing as the filter sits under the swinging arm, the mudguard is well out of the way.

The oil return from the engine goes over the top of the gearbox.  The oil return from the filter to the oil tank goes underneath the gearbox.

Very difficult to photograph with the bike fully built.

 

 

Attachments
IMG_3562.JPG
IMG_3566.JPG

Submitted by robert_tuck on Saturday, 26 January, 2019 - 11:57

Permalink

Very tidy compared to some, looks a bit of a faff to adjust the primary chain, or is there enough room to squash the pipe down to get to it?.

There's enough room behind the pipes for either an open ended or ring spanner on the top gearbox mount and although it is a bit more of a 'faff' to spanner the adjuster, it's hardly that difficult and a compromise worth making - plus, where else would the pipes go?

 



© 2024 Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans