Hi all I'v just about finished restoring my dominator 88 I think it was made into a cafe racer a long time ago i would think late 60s, i just got it started last weekend but I'm having trouble setting the carbs up they are Amal 376/219 I'v checked with Amal and they are the correct ones for this model and all the jets and needles are correct to and they have had a really good clean and are in good condition. I can get it to tick over but only just and its popping back through the left carb. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on setting them up. I'm usualy pretty good with carbs but i'm a little bit stumped this time. thanks simon
Previously simon_oneill wr…
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Kevin: Have you checked th…
Kevin:
Have you checked the inlet valve clearance on the left side?
It might be a tad tight.
Mike
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Previously michael_sulliva…
Previously michael_sullivan wrote:
Kevin:
Have you checked the inlet valve clearance on the left side?
It might be a tad tight.
Mike
Good thought, Mike, I'm sure Simon will check that
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thanks lads, I'v checked…
thanks lads, I'v checked the tappets and reset the ignition timing but I'v not tried starting it yet, just got to cold. I noticed a potential problem with the advance and retard gismo, when it was loose from the mag it moved freely and sprung back into place but when I tightened it up it wouldn't spring back after advancing by hand but it returned back with help . I'v tried loosening the bolt off but still seated on the taper and its still not springing back is this normal?.
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Previously simon_oneill wr…
Previously simon_oneill wrote:
thanks lads, I'v checked the tappets and reset the ignition timing but I'v not tried starting it yet, just got to cold. I noticed a potential problem with the advance and retard gismo, when it was loose from the mag it moved freely and sprung back into place but when I tightened it up it wouldn't spring back after advancing by hand but it returned back with help . I'v tried loosening the bolt off but still seated on the taper and its still not springing back is this normal?.
Definitely not normal, Simon. Mine has a lot of resistance to 'opening' and springs back immediately. Looks like it will need a good dose of WD40, at the least! May need stripping if that doesn't free it off.
Kevin
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If you run an engine with…
If you run an engine with a spark plug removed from the cylinder head, put the plug cap back on the plug, and rest it on a good earth. Otherwise you can damage the magneto
The magneto ATD not returning properly may be due to tired springs.
Paul
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My 99 had two carbs fitted…
My 99 had two carbs fitted, bad starting, endless fiddling, and poor tick-over. I put it back to a single carb and the performance improved, starting was easy, economy was better and the tickover is steady. Burlen Fuel Systems in Salisbury will supply a new Monobloc Amal, correctly jetted for the 88. Try advertising on this site for the inlet manifold. Don't over-tighten the carb(s) or you may get an air leak as the castings can distort.
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Previously simon_oneill wrote:
Hi Simon.
First step is to get the throttle slides opening simultaneously. Make sure the throttle stop screws are fully screwed out and not holding the slides up. Make this adjustment by altering the throttle cables accordingly. Then check that both slides are pulled fully up on full throttle. Once you have that right, you will need a half turn, or so, on the throttle stop screws so that the bike will idle.
After adjusting the throttle slides, in the Haynes manual it suggests starting with the air screws one and a half turns OUT from fully screwed in. This should get the bike running. Get the engine warmed up then remove one plug and start the engine. Adjust the air screw until the engine runs at it's fastest and then lower the throttle stop screw to get a sensible tickover. Then do the same to the other cylinder. Once both cylinders are re-connected, you will probably have to lower each throttle stop slightly to get a good tickover. I found that this method worked pretty well with my 650SS.
Best of luck.
Kevin