ES2 Rigid Frame Rear Brake Pedal Casting Number

Is the first picture yours?  It looks correct.  There might be slight variations in length, but they aren't likely to affect braking.

The rod has various bends in it - all the Norton ones I've seen are straight.  Cranked rod will make it possibly slightly more flexible but the force will be the same at each end.  Bends will just make the pedal move a little more.

Pads must of course be perfectly free of oil and grease.  Cams and pins need high temperature on assembly.  The grease nipple on the outside is an invitation to disastrously over-grease.  Modern greases are better than they were in the 1930's when they oxidised more quickly.

What does the rear lever look like?  We can't see it in the first picture.  The back brake should easily be capable of locking the wheel. 

What year is the bike ? Presumably pre-war if it's an ES2 and rigid ? All the pre-war civilian models used the same part number for brake pedal. There was additionally a longer pedal for the military models as they used more-forward footrests. 

Would there be any chance of a look at the complete pedal ? Norton pedals always seem to have had a cross-hatched surface. 

I don't understand why it has been necessary to crank the rod. It should run in a straight line. The lever on the back of the pedal looks to be angled too far backwards and far too close to the chainguard. By the way, your chain spring clip is facing in the wrong direction and will detach itself if it contacts anything. 

This is a WD pedal and rod. Civilian was an inch and a half shorter but otherwise identical. How long are your footrest arms ? 

The longer military levers are marked N4 and 6732A. From memory, the civilian version was simply 6732.

Josh, I'd really like to see a clear drive-side view of the bike so I can see what the pedal is doing. It's definitely wrong as the rod should have a clear straight run.

I have a spare WD pedal / lever here which I can photograph and measure. At one time I had a civilian lever too, and the only difference was overall length. It is long gone and I've recently switched to Windows 11 and can't find most of my photos and images any more. The search function is dysfunctional !

We'll work this one out ! 

Dear Colin,
                 why not try a longer pivot bolt/ stud and say 1/2" spacer to move brake pedal out and allow straight rod.
Your initial post says you have no brake, how much is lever moving on backplate, is there a problem of fouling? if lots of movement despite new linings suggest you make some spacers to pack shoes from brake cam.
Regards Martin