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Restarting an Inter after a long layup

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A 1930's Inter has arrivedin the shed  somewhat to my surprise!  I'm trying to do the right thing before I start it up to avoid damaging the engine. It has Castrol R40, and hasn't run since 2012. Oil in the tank is clean and almost clear, and the bike has probably done under 100 miles since rebuild.

Should I just kick it over to get the oil through before firing up? Or should I try to put some oil on the cams before I move it? Is has been spun a few times over the years...a new 5l can of Morris 40 castor based oil arrives tomorrow.

Also, someone suggested checking the oil quill for crank feed. I don't yet even know if that requires removal of timing case...and really don't want to do unnecessarily work. I do know the engine is not glued up with lacquered castor oil.

The Frank's book I have is pretty short on details like this.

Thanks for any assistance!

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I had a similar issue recently when helping to prepare a  very rare Ducati DOHC exposed spring factory TT and Grand prix racer for a Parade .It had not been run for some years and was on castor. IThe owner insisted all would be ok ,I squirted some oil on the cam and spun the motor over without a plug . All was well ,but I thought the oil a little too sticky and a change would be sensible.

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Thanks Robert. I'll take your advice. I'm not yet at all familiar with the beast. Its valves are on display but cams are hidden, and I don't know how accessible they are. I'll take off the tank and have a good look.

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You lucky "BBBGR" !, I hope you have as much fun as I do with my 36 Rudge,  A few drops of oil on the valve stems and maybe a dash in the fuel tank as an upper cylinder lube would not go amiss, Its likely that the plug will oil up anyway so take a spare out with you. Ball bearing motors run with low pressure systems and there is not much resistance to oil flow and the gear pump can if needed supply a high pressure.

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...the plug is oily already...!

Now I need a good book on it. All I have is  Edgar Franks, plus a lot of stuff published on the net by 'racingvincent'. Also some of George Cohen's tech archive is out there. I'll need to get printing in case it all vanishes.

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The quill for the crank feed can be accessed by removing the 'nut' on the timing case, it'd be a good idea to do the same with the cam (if it has been modified to a central oil feed) The other thing would be the feeds to the valve guides (the holes in the cylinder head, the tubes and the two small unions screwed into the cambox that feed them) as these are easily blocked (note the inlet has a smaller feed than the exhaust). Take the cam box cover off or slacken the top oil feed union and take the spark plug out, then kick it over a few times to check oil is reaching the cambox. On starting, check that oil is returning to the tank. This is a bit later than yours but will should help - http://blairchapman.com/ncno/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Manx-Manual.pdf

Cheers. Ian.

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Brilliant - thanks Ian.  I see it follows usual Norton policy of not printing the date, but it is clearly post war.  As I understand it, they did little to the standard Inters anyway, after maybe a flurry of activity in the early '30's.  I don't even know if it has 'central feed' and only discovered the concept yesterday!  Pics attached.  I'll remove the tank.

Anyway - my oil has arrived so, wife and weather permitting, I might give it a go this weekend.  I've waited 7 years to get my hands on this, and I don't want to wreck it on Day 1!

It appears to have a magnesium cam box (why?...) and I believe it is a 1938 plain (not ribbed) magneto chain cover (because it has a rev counter for some reason, rather than a speedo).  I think the engine might be 1933, but the head has hairsprings.  Again: I've no idea how that came about.  Effectively it seems to be a late '30's engine.  I think.

Now I need to go to a cycle shop to get a (temporary?) speedometer.

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Hi 

Is it going yet ?

If not, the next fun part is getting the hang of starting the thing !

I have a ‘37 Inter in a postwar Manx frame that i run on normal Castrol XXL 40 rather than R40 as it’s easier to deal with as the bike isn’t used that often 

I would concur with the other comments about checking for gummed up parts, and disconnecting the cam box feed.

on mine I have a short piece of clear pipe On the cam box oil feed so I can check the oil is moving when I kick it over before starting.

As for starting the following always works for me

A/R set half way

Air lever fully closed 

tickle to flood carb(admittedly I am using a 930 Concentric)

hold in valve lifter & give the kickstart a gentle swing 

Bring kickstart back to the top of the stroke with valve lifter then released

 With valve lifter held in again depress kickstart just past compression and release valve lifter 

now give the kickstart a good swing with a tweak of throttle.

You should then be rewarded with the glorious sound of an Inter roaring away

if not prepare for a work out and do it all over again 

cheers, Simon

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It's going fine at last, thanks Simon. Very carefully set mag timing, and then pretty much as you describe. The Brooklands can is a bit theatrical in London.

And it's brilliant on the road. At present I've too many Nortons(?), 16H, 88ss and now this. Now to find time to use them...

The Inter feels the smoothest engine (and the noisiest and oiliest)  the Dommie the most comfortable (it's that feather bed), and the 16H the friendliest...if that makes sense.

Spoilt for choice for almost the first time in my life!

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Having a choice of  widely varied machines to ride  provides that challenge  and interest that is sadly lacking with  current  bikes. Its also helpful in deciding what you will need for your  future riding as the inevitable issues with old age creep up. Out yesterday  I got cought out by heavy rain and  gravel strewn grassy lanes (no weather gear!) ,Arrived home a chilled drowned rat but always perfectly in control of my lovely old 99 even on flooded gravelly  hills. I would have abandoned the ride on any of my other mounts. The 99 has to be my forever bike,it does everything so well apart from motorways, room in the box for an overdrive 5th gear?.Does anyone make such a set up ,or are they all close ratio racing?

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The biggest issue I have is the '30s rear stand. My 16H is not easy to pull up, put this needs Herculean effort. I'm considering a Vintel prop stand. Has anyone experienced them?

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I have seen one in use and if the Rudge did not have the brilliant lever operated stand ,I would have one.  I have only recently had the use of side stands on my bikes and the difference in ease of mounting and dismounting  has taken all the agro away.

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I'm easily persuaded, Robert. Partly because the effort is considerable, but also because it is a nuisance to park thing close together when they also have to move so far back to get them on the stand.

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Hi David,

   The Vintele stand is a reproduction of the original ESWAY stand designed and manufactured in the 1920s and remanufactured over the next 30 or so years by other companies. The photo shows my spring frame Inter with a stand dating from the '50s when you could buy one at Halfords or similar. I have found this works very well as you can park on uneven ground and set it to the correct height notch. Laterally they aren't very robust, so be careful not to bash it on anything. Like all side stands, make it part of your starting ritual to check it is retracted before take-off !

Great to hear it’s all going ok, I too have a Brooklands can on my Inter, definitely theatrical wherever you go, love it !

would certainly agree with the feartherbed comment,  I recently acquired a ‘68 Atlas, which is the first featherbed I have ever ridden, can’t believe how good it is, comfortable and safe handling for certain. The Atlas is my go to bike out of the two as it is more practical and has lights.

 

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If you think the Atlas is good ,my 99 would blow your mind, it runs rings round our 67 Atlas, I am at a loss to know why that is. Possibly weight distribution or the gyroscopic effect of the heavy Atlas crank..The 99 also had a good biff up the front ,perhaps shortened the wheelbase and sharpened the steering.

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The 99 has taper ,the Atlas balls, but whatever it is I would like to get the Atlas up to scratch. Certainly will not be experimenting with the 99, its perfect.

 


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