I am currently building a Triton (reliving my lost youth) and foolishly started with a motley collection of featherbed bits. Amongst the bits was a cotton reel rear hub together with the spindles and the internal spacer and the external spacers.
I therefore purchased the missing parts from a well respected supplier and assembled the hub. Having got it together I now find it is some 5.5mm too wide to fit in my swinging arm. I have two swinging arms and the problem is exactly the same on both so I don’t think they are the problem.
When I came to fit the RH bearing lock ring I found it did not seat with the external ring snug to the hub but sat with a gap of some 2.67mm to the hub. I checked the seating of the bearing against the shoulder in the hub and all is well but the lock ring has some 2.67mm more thread than the hub. I can see this is to be expected to some extent as the lock ring has to lock the bearing in place and provide a good location to the speedo drive but it looks a bit excessive. Can anyone tell me if this is normal?
Also when I fit the rear wheel spacer (inside speedo drive), it protrudes some 6mm from the lock ring and really does not look right. Has anyone had a similar problem? The rear wheel spacer (as above) is 20.64mm long, the speedo drive spacer is 3.89mm and the external spacer is 30.3mm.
It really looks though the RH bearing is not in the right place but measurement of the recess in the hub and width of the bearing indicates it’s correct. Is it possible I’ve got the wrong parts, are the corresponding Commando items different? All replies gratefully received.
Finally one more question can anyone please confirm that the Rim on a Dominator rear wheel should have no offset. I’ve had the rim (WM3x18’’) built by a local chap and he has incorporated a 2 mm offset to the brake drum side
Afraid that I don’t have the answer, but I’m about to do the same rebuild job so am interested to hear your experience.
Which way round is the rear hub inner sleeve? I have read that the longer stub should be on the right- hand side of the hub.
Which bearing have you got on the right-hand side of the hub - the single row or double row? The Haynes manual has a photo that shows the double row bearing in the left- hand side and a separate photo showing the single row bearing fitted to the longer stub on the rear hub inner sleeve, and that bearing is identified as ‘right-hand bearing’.
However, the RGM description for their wheel bearing ‘set’ says that the single row bearing fits in the brake drum side so there seems to be some confusion over which bearing goes on which side.
I would have thought that the double row bearing should be on the left-hand side as that’s where more support is needed for the brake drum and drive sprocket.
Hopefully someone will give definitive answers to the bearing and hub spacer orientation conundrums.
sounds like you may have a collection of non std parts which will make it difficult for anyone to give a meaningfull reply. I would aim to get the rim central between the suspension units.And the chain lines correct.
To answer Tony’s queries the double bearing is on the brake drum side and the spacer is fitted as in the Haynes manual. The bearings do seem to be fine and exactly where you expect. The locking ring and the the two inner spacers (inside speedo drive and speedo drive spacer) are items I purchased new and these to my eye appear to protrude too far from the hub. The only unknown is the outer spacer which is the one you remove when using the qd aspect of the wheel. This is the visible spacer one can see with the wheel in situ. I was rather hoping some helpful member could offer up a pair of vernier callipers to this item whilst in place and give me a reasonably good figure for its length.
As far as I can see the brake drum side spacer looks ok as the wheel sits some 2mm to the lhs when sitting in the S/A without the rh spacer, this ties in with the 2mm offset which I believe has been wrongly built into my wheel, hence my original query about offset.
Just got back from Bridlington where I have been following your thread, I have removed my speedo drive side spacer and it measures 1" (25.4mm) exactly if that helps.
Thank you very much indeed. That would appear to solve my problem as the excess 5mm corresponds with the difference between the overall width of my hub with spacers and the width of my S/A. I have been looking back through some of the heavy twins correspondence and it seems my rim should have built without an offset so I’ll contact my builder and see if he can adjust it. I hope he might be able to lose the 2mm offset without new spokes.
Anyway, thank you once again Dick for your help and thank you also to my other correspondents.
Somewhere within the Forum historic files is a posting about the Dominator Rear Wheel Bearing Spacer Tube that sits between the bearings. The following was part of the original posting and comes from the long lost Dominator Service Notes.
The longest end of the spacer tube goes through the RHS bearing. Haynes Ch 7...Sec 7.7
The significance of this being that the bearing spacer only fits one way round and if this is incorrect it will push one of the bearings out of position and causes the axle and associated parts to be around 5mm over to one side.
Also worth checking out is the spacer on the Brake Plate. The attached diagram shows the two spacers as 19 and 29. The Brake Plate spacer is rough only half as thick.
Thanks for your interest, the spacer is the right way round and both bearings appear to be in the correct position. The twin bearing sits inside the hub allowing the lhs ‘dummy’ axle and brake assembly to sit correctly. The rhs bearing sits against a shoulder inside the hub. This is recessed some 19mm inside the hub, the bearing is 12mm wide and the depth to the bearing is 7mm. The lock ring has a threaded section some 9mm+, so sits a little proud.
I believe an external spacer of the length mentioned by Dick should crack it. Hopefully!!
Sounds to me like you have got everything inside the Hub correct plus a solution to the external spacer issue.
The off-centre rim will be very easy to correct by someone who knows what they are doing. A turn of just one flat on each nipple will shift the rim across by a mm. So there is minimal risk of spoke intrusion on the inside.