Norvil side stand useless

You should have used the NOC spares....catalog says they have one:

E2/1014 Side stand assembly Bolt on front engine plate type New ....12 in stock.... £102.95

...Hooray....the Smileys are back......

Les

I hadn't realised you were trying to save money (no problem with that I always do....try that is).... I just thought you had overlooked the fact that the NOC had them...that's all........Perhaps the 60 quid might seem peanuts when your bike falls over and smashes things up a bit so maybe Norvil will give you some credit on it if you haggle with them and return it saying "it's not fit for purpose".... then buy the real one....but at least you've helped other potential buyers by pointing this out....see yourself as a self sacrificing hero George.....

Bottom line...I WAS trying to be helpful...

Les

What happened to the stand you were to have made, by your friendly local metalworker?

I've made an entry as to pull this thread back up to the top to enable some continuity....Les

George, it seems our recent experiences of buying from Norvil have been not entirely dissimilar ... A lot of ifs and buts involved, anyway. I hope you get it sorted!

Hi George

Have a look at pictures of ES2 (ebay ect ) and find one with with the later large engine plates...

I cant find one mine is swinging arm 1954 and has the so called rigid frame engine plates..

i would wait until you get your replacement stand / bracket fitted. then pass judgment on it

Hi George, not sure why you would need to disturb the primary cases in order to change the front engine plates. Maybe I'm missing something? It might be simpler just to leave the plates and stand bracket as they are, and go back to the idea of having a replacement leg made by your engineer friend.

Cheers, Ian McD

it has to much travel forwards and not enough backwards then you think it would fit same as in the photo, slightly exaggerated.

Here's a pic of the "under cradle" stand on my 1956 19S. The bracket can be fitted with the primary cases in situ but you may need longer studs through the cradle. I rarely use it - while it supports the bike at a reasonable angle of lean the foot is too close to the centre line and the centre of gravity seems to be outboard of the foot. This tends to lift the front wheel, especially if there is any luggage carried. Just too unstable for my liking. I have considered having a custom leg made - longer and with a bend so that the foot lands further from the bike while retaining the lean angle. The spring in the pic is not correct, there should not be any coils where it passes the pivot.

All the sidestands I've seen fitted to pre-featherbed swinging arm models bolt to the front engine plates. It does seem to be a hornets nest. Think I'll soldier on without one!

Ian G

The 2 styles of front plate mounted stands are illustrated in the '56 spares list, Plate JX rigid, Plate JY sprung. But when it gets to part numbers it doesn't seem to distinguish between the two. As you mentioned previously George the engine plates are also different for the 2 versions with noticeable changes in shape and number of holes so you might not be out of the woods yet.

The below cradle version that I have is not illustrated. I am sure that it is an original fitment as there is an identical one on a frame I picked up many years ago as a spare. Both frames are date coded for '56. I briefly wondered if mine could be a '57 part but then remembered that from '57 the cradle is tubular so the bracket would not work on that frame.

As usual more questions than answers!

Hi, i have just breezed through the posts quickly, i have a 1953 ES2 and the side stand is bolted to the side stand bracket which goes through the front engine plate lugs . The primary case is well out the way .

Andrew

George,

The attached photos show side stands for a 1955 ES2 and approx 1954 Model 7, both from single down tube models, before the change in 1956 or 57.

ES2 casting numbers: bracket 14821, leg 14786 (not easy to read this one).

Model 7 casting numbers: bracket 14787, leg 14786.

The legs are identical on both of these.

In the Spare Parts List for 1955 Models ES2, 19 Rigid Frame and 19 Spring Frame the illustration for frame and fittings (Plate JY) unhelpfully shows a Model 7 frame, which has the wrong engine plates, side stand and petrol tank mountings. Plate JX for the solid frame has the correct picture for the sidestand and bracket, and looks identical to my ES2.

Hope this helps. Regards, Philip

George,

I'll probably go to the NOC reunion at Laxey but I'll have to hide my BMW Airhead round the corner!

George,

Sorry to interrupt your domestic arrangements, but here is a bit more info on ES2 sidestands! I hope I've attached an extract from the 1955 ES2 and 1955 Model 7 parts lists and photos of the sidestand on my ES2. It was a bit dark in the garage to get a better photo this evening, but can take it outside for a deecent picture if that helps.

It's the VMCC Autojumble at the Bath and West Showground on Saturday, so if I see any bits for sidestands I'll buy them if the price is right, then offer them for sale on NOC Classifieds.

Regards, Phil

and just to add my ten pennyworth.........this is the prop stand I was given with the 1956 framed es2, will it fit? watch this space.

Hello Kawasaki ZZR600 sides stand very useful costs £19.98pence and my time a brain power to adapt the zzrsidestandto fit my Manxman slimline frame And It's Better than to original it does not slip around the frame tube has I made a plate to fit behindthe crankcase to pick up the two 3/8ths engine studs and then it has a U clamp for the frame bottom tube of the frame mounted in rubber hand made parts and it looks good it's in chrome plate and works really well too , SO NorVil can keep their expensive bit of steel yours anna j

Great news George!

Perhaps you can have the webmaster change the title of this thread? Seems like this one wasn't their fault & they have been accommodating to resolve the issue?

ATB,

Skip

As Anna has suggested..make your own. There are lots which can be adapted for £30 tops. They can even look fairly original if you chose wisely.

I made a rear stand like the old Mz bikes had. It worked well but I gad to remive it due to issues with the speedo drive. Totally unoriginal but I did not care at the time.

George. If you feel you have gone as far as you can with Nobvil, the cheapest option now is perhaps to have the stand built up a little with weld at the point where it stops against the bracket. You can then file it back to achieve the angle you desire, before having the stand painted. Would that work?

btw, the title of this thread clearly still stands.....

Ian

The RGM web site contains advice on how to modify their general purpose stand in the above manner.

Hello My advice is to make your own On Ebay you can get nice stainless tube and bits of nice plate or make a visit to a scrapyard and buy off cuts of stainless steel all you then need is a good press drill and and set of broch drills and a good stick welder you can pick up at most auto jumble sales for 25 quid or so or if feeling brave you can buy a good migwelder I havea SIP migmate90 since 1986 and it's still working to this day if there looked after I can weld fresh air has I perfected this many times welding cars and vans with an MIG seam welding is best now you can get attachments so you can now weld alloys and stainless steels and migwire technology is getting better now I use gasless mig wire which works well you also need a good angle grinder and various disc from flipper discs to cuttingdiscs and most of all good measuringtools and a good marker anyone with good common sense can set them selfs up and use these tools with good results but please get your safety gear to wear like good safety glasses and gloves and breathing mask and work clean and tidy and well-ventilated area and think safety first and last and do take you time working do not rush things if feeling frustrated take a break and have a cupper tea and switch on Classic FM nice calmmusic offend helps And I was LUCKY to have left me in a Will An ATLAS Metal Lathe a10" Swing over bed 1936 F10 with tooling and an ATLAS Mill Drill too with tooling which helps me make my own parts when needed So get out there and have fun with it, and forget Expence-nor-vil yours anna j

So George, just pop out and buy yourself a welder, drill press, broch drills (whatever they are) angle grinder, flipper discs? cutting discs and a few feet of stainless steel tube. Teach your self to weld fresh air, or even stainless steel (always a challenge) and crack on.

Better still just lean your bike against a tree. much cheaper option

Hi again George. I don't find lifting onto the centre stand such an issue as you. I'm wondering if you can't modify it in the way that Japanese bikes work i.e. it's as much a downward push on a lever on the stand as it is an upward lift.

I think our bikes are pretty similar and as you're only one county west, we could meet up sometime and see if your centre stand seems excessively heavy to lift. Mine is fitted with a side stand but it is useless. Maybe I could try getting it modified although I leave most technical matters to my bruv.

I use a different technique. Pull the handlebars to full left lock, put left hand on grip, put right hand on grab rail. Lift up on grab rail and at the same time, pull back on handlebar grip.

I think we are as far apart as we could be whilst still living in Cornwall and Devon: I'm East Devon, you're West Cornwall. That makes it a bit of a trek. Never mind, we will hopefully meet up some time.