Norton Dominator 99 - Battery isolating switch

Car ones are intended for possible high amperage situations. All you need is a modest single pole switch on/off switch - something like a spare headlight switch would do. Halfords or any motor accessory shop should have something suitable.

Your battery shouldn't discharge at any noticeable rate unless your rectifier is iffy. I put my bikes on charge every month or two and the fully charged light goes on in only a few minutes.

Richard, if you run a magneto then Alan Osbourne does a nice switch and wiring loom which will isolate battery and short mag to earth to prevent running mode. He can be contacted on 01953 884681 (Thetford) trading as AO Services.

this is the sort of thing i would fit if i won the lottery it looks quite neat

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/141/category/30

If you google around a bit plenty of bargains if you want something H/H:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/thegreensparkplugco/Battery-/_i.html?_fsub=3325265011&_sid=764494581

But Gordon is right, not much current involved and as long as not switched under load, should be fine. Check the ratings carefully as usually AC switches are not to happy with DC and de-rate significantly.

Your choice.

Rgds Steve.

I have recently aquired an Ariel W/ng, the p/o has inserted a blade type fuse which he simply removed to isolate the electics,

I have to say I have fitted similar to all my machines but will also admit to not removing the fuse when not in use, shall probably do so in future. Kind regards

Previously richard_evans wrote:

Thank you for all the good advice. I looked in my 'I'd better not throw that away' drawer and found a keyed switch which will probably do the job very well bearing in mind the loading mentioned by Steve. It will serve the dual purpose of imobilizing the bike in the absence of any other way of doing so except for those rather useless blank ignition keys in the headlamp switch.

Ill try and put a picture up when it's done.

richard disconnect the fuse kwik and simple

You don't need a car-type switch. No more than 20 Amp DC rating - 10A would probably do. A quick Fleabay search throws up quite a few collar-mounted types from around £2 - illuminated too! Panel mounted are a bit more difficult as you need a panel and to make a cut-out for the switch. I will be using an ignition key type of switch on my Navigator (Still 6 Volts) to give it a little security - but I got it cheap anyway About £4 as I recall. I have some brass sheet to make up a box for it - you can solder brass easily. Do you have an inline fuse on the battery? If not, you should have. The switch rating can be the same as the fuse.

On a positive earth bike, the fuse should go, as you say, in the negative circuit.

I have never thought about it before, but to have ignition and lighting circuits both separately fused wouldn't be a bad ideas. Over to the electrical guru's.

The fuse being in the Positive or Negative technically is the same. In fact Triumphs did fuse the earth wire from the battery. Being electrically aware, mains ALWAYS has the fuse in the live side other wise you could have a 'nasty' shock. So I have always had the fuse in the live but it will work in the earth. If you want to fuse the ignition separate to the lights/rest then fine.