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Sorry this is off topic for Norton but there are so many experts here, and this is certainly electrical...

I'm thinking of trying to get a better more reliable low speed spark on my aged veteran by fitting a Boyer 'induction ignition' box. This is an amplifier unit that still uses the contact breaker but the contact does not carry the full coil current. I understand it switches the box which breaks the coil current to provide the spark

My problem is: I run on total loss (no battery charging). Does anyone know if the Boyer system will draw significantly more current on average over time than the simple existing system? And, also, if the contacts carry less current, will they be less effective if they get covered in oil? At present they spend most of their time in a bath of oil dripping down from the exhaust valve guider directly above. They don't seem to mind this level of abuse all that much...but maybe if they carry less current they might be more sensitive.

When I asked the manufacturer, they didn't seem to know. I expect I shall have to buy one and try it out.

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Hi David, I use one on a 99 that has points. VERY much better spark ---but still does not like oil on points , good that the low current points last and don't burn the oil on the points so easy to clean. Current consumption? similar to std I think . Includes a timing light ,very usefull.

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Thanks Robert. I'll put an old analogue ammeter in series with the ignition and see what it draws now and order one anyway. Then at least I'll know if I need a bigger spare battery!

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Previously David Cooper wrote:

Sorry this is off topic for Norton but there are so many experts here, and this is certainly electrical...

I'm thinking of trying to get a better more reliable low speed spark on my aged veteran by fitting a Boyer 'induction ignition' box. This is an amplifier unit that still uses the contact breaker but the contact does not carry the full coil current. I understand it switches the box which breaks the coil current to provide the spark

My problem is: I run on total loss (no battery charging). Does anyone know if the Boyer system will draw significantly more current on average over time than the simple existing system? And, also, if the contacts carry less current, will they be less effective if they get covered in oil? At present they spend most of their time in a bath of oil dripping down from the exhaust valve guider directly above. They don't seem to mind this level of abuse all that much...but maybe if they carry less current they might be more sensitive.

When I asked the manufacturer, they didn't seem to know. I expect I shall have to buy one and try it out.

David; Ihavebeen suffering with a poorstartig single that hasbeenfittedwith a BoyerMk 3system withvariousissues that were prevemnting itfromstarting properly. I became a littlemore knowledgeableaboutthesedevice thanks to Mr Alan Osborne of AO Services.

What became evidentandpetrinantto youisthat the Mk3 Boyer unitconsumes 20Watts. MoremodernBoyer systems like theMicro Digital less, butstill in doublefigurers. Allelectronicsystemshavelowvoltageleveldetection which disablesthem;thatvoltageisalsoin doublefigures soyournotgoing togettoofar on a total loss machine asmine turnedout to bedue tolack ofcharging. Iwasunderfivemileswhen itstartedto messme around,,,,,

Personally Iwouldavioditinyourcircumstances. I am a greatbeliver inmagnetoforsparkproduction andreliability. I havent had to push in upuntil the point Ihad anelectronic ignition.

Cheers

Jon

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Hi Jon, the points booster is not a Mark 3 system. Don't know what the draw is but I have ridden a non charging system for days.

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I had one of these on a Triumph 5TA (distributor type system) and it ran far better than with the standard points setup. Tickover was smoother and pickup improved. I fitted a switch so I could instantly switch from one mode to the other (no idea why now) so it was easy to compare.

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I had one of these on a Triumph 5TA (distributor type system) and it ran far better than with the standard points setup. Tickover was smoother and pickup improved. I fitted a switch so I could instantly switch from one mode to the other (no idea why now) so it was easy to compare.

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Interesting stuff. I'll order one anyway. It's a bit late for the Summer Pioneer Run (Handcross this coming Sunday) but they aren't very expensive if I remember correctly. My machine doesn't have enough power for a mag, and I'm not sure they were even invented at the time. The handbook I have says it'll run all day on a glass (Leclanche maybe?) battery, but I suspect that was optimistic by the manufacturer (i.e. a lie!). I like Ian's switch idea so maybe I'll try that temporarily when testing it. There's nowhere to put an ammeter.

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With no charging system it makes no difference. Apart from changing spark plug polarity and I haven't a clue if that matters. I use a 12v gell mat battery. Not very original I'm afraid. They don't sell the glass ones in Halfords...I need to move off topic! Although to be fair, as Ian has implied, these things are relevant to the many coil ignition Nortons.

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A O here, some facts, a traditional points/coil system draws some 20W, the same for a MK3 or MK4 Boyer system, (and Lucas RITA) they are both nothing more than fancy coil switchers. The Inductive Discharge system as above also draws about 20W (a very little more for the electronics) as is quoted above, but of course oily points is a totally separate issue, as above. One quote above said his total loss ignition system only lasted 5 miles-your battery was flat sir.

If we take a 9 AHR battery fully charged-if we take a basic ignition system taking 20W at 12V we have 1.6Amps. our 9Ahr battery at 1.6 A will last 5.6 hrs. Now getting slightly silly if we average 50MPH we can travel for 280 miles! If on the other hand you use some indicators and some stop light and we only had 5Ahr in our part flat battery we can only travel 120 Miles (I know I have done it!) So the quote above that he had 5 miles before total loss battery problems is due to other factors. A modestly charged battery on a standard coil ignition (no lights) is good for 50-100 miles, so there.

 


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