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Hello All,

While looking at making a bracket to fit a remote oil filter I have just made the unwelcome discovery that one has to (seemingly) fit the union with the two oil pipes to the engine before the engine is fitted in the frame (which I have not done). Has anyone any experience of doing this ? The bolt that held it on cannot be taken out of the hole it is in as the hexagon fouls the bottom frame tube.

I am assuming that the engine has to pivot out of the way--does anyone know which engine bolts need to come out--I shall have to remove the carb, the exhausts (not yet sealed up so I would have to take them off anyway) head steady etc but I'm not sure which way to pivot the engine--any ideas?

And--which one is in and which one is out where the oil pipes are concerned?

Cheers

JPA

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John,

on My Navigator it is the same. The oil feed bolt cannot be taken out with

the engine in the frame. So it must be ok or we both have crooked frames..

The outer line is the feed line and the inner is the return line.

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Hello Uli,

I suspect it was the designer not our frames--what a pain. I shall have to pivot the engine in the frame to be able to do it.

Cheers

JPA

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Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:

Hello All,

Has anyone any experience of doing this ? The bolt that held it on cannot be taken out of the hole it is in as the hexagon fouls the bottom frame tube.

Hello John, I can say that I have had to remove this oil union in the past because of some damage to one of the oil pipes and I can say it is every bit as bad a job to do as you already suspect. From memory I didn't actually lift the engine totally out unto the floor but I removed every engine bolt/pipes/heady steady/split the frame etc and I think I then lifted the engine above the frame rails using a jack. I am fairly certain that I did leave the carb on. I kept thinking that it must be possible to do it the 'easy way' but it probably would have been as simple to actually lift the engine out completely - at least then you can turn it on it's side and see what you are actually doing. You definitely want to get it right first time. Do check that the copper pipes are well soldered into the actual union- that's where mine leaked after it had hit something.

I wish you the very best of good luck but I fear you may learn some new language .

Patrick.

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Hello Patrick,

I can see that I should be able to rock the engine backwards--possibly with one bolt but they may all need to come out as you say. The union is very good condition with the only marks on it being where I have loctited a piece of 3/8 copper tube on one end and had to hold it in a vice (my filter unit has larger pipe stubs than the 5/16 copper pipes). I have no worries on that front (the union). I have someone coming give me a lift tomorrow so it should be easier than on my own.

Cheers

JPA

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Well, The union is on--you are right Patrick it is a horrible job. We (a two man job) managed to tilt the engine back enough but had to split the frame and take out all the engine bolts. We cross threaded one and had to replace it and distressing amounts of ally swarf were ejected from the holes while tapping them through. My (very expensive) powder coat seems to come off in sympathy.

Putting the rubber pipes on was awful as everything is just so tight. I had to emery off the bell mouthed bit on the oil feed union (filter that screws in the tank) just so I could force the oil pipe on. Once I have made the bracket and can mount the filter (and get some 3/16 diameter oil hose I'll have the lubrication system done. The club shop seems to sell stainless brackets but they seem to have the filter laying on its side (I have two bikes like this) but I understand that they better upright hanging down--as in Dan's picture and Francis' drawing--half done that but....

I noticed today that one of my Triumphs is intent on lubricating the floor--so I'll have to adjourn to look at that--and Monday's classes--ho hum.

Cheers

JPA

 


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