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Question Re: Plunger Spindle, Rear Springs

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I'm fitting my mongrel '47 Inter together for the first time with boxes of bits from innumerable sources and am now pondering the fit of the plunger spindle in the frame. When the bolt in the bottom of the spindle is well-snugged, the spindle protrudes +/- 1/16" as seen in my photo. Seems like it should be more or less flush. I thought about just nipping the end off in the lathe but I thought it a good idea to ask first.

Thanks,

Mike

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Hi Mike,

I don't know if you are aware but the suspension castings were modified in mid 1947 and there might be a slight difference in the lengths between the earlier one and the later casting. Also you could check how the taper fits the bottom hole, it might not be quite the same angle so not pulling home fully.

Regards, Richard.

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Hi Mike - the part number for the spindle rod is the same for ES2 , 30, 30M , 40 and 40 M for 1950 and beyond by my spares list reprint so I believe there was no difference in length between models at least for 1950 and beyond. I have measured my 1950 ES2 plunger castings and the overall length top to bottom is 13" . If yours is different then there must have been a difference in rod length as well from one year to another. As Richard C. has mentioned you need to be certain that the tapered lower end has been drawn fully home - a difference in taper rate will effect this of course but the bolt length at the bottom may also prevent it being drawn home if the bolt is too long and bottoms out in the rod before drawing the rod home. The upper end is finished off with a cap and it does appear that the rod should not protrude beyond the upper casting as yours seems to do.

I hope this is of some help - Richard

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Mine (1952 ES2) are more or less flush with the lower bolt snugged up. As long as the bottom is fully home in the taper (which is very important as otherwise you'll get lateral movement) it wouldn't affect the function if it protrudes at the top - but as said, I would check that taper carefully. Probably best to do that with the springs and slider removed so you can see what's going on down there.

The bearer bars should have a plug in the top (B4/673) which I've never seen and mine came without. I'm going to turn a couple up out of Delrin. I'm not actually sure what function they serve other than keeping (some) water out......

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Thanks all. I ended up cutting .070" off the tops and now they fit flush and look good with the alloy plugs installed. The tapers fit well and I suppose there are variations in fit over the years. A little bit less material off the taper and the spindle will protrude. For general info, RGM sells those alloy plugs along with new and oversize spindles.

Thanks,

Mike

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Hi Michael.

Thanks for the tip about RGM - I'd assumed these parts were unavailable. I had a new bearer bar made by an ex-toolmaker and it is an excellent job (and much cheaper than the RGM item) but I think I'll go for their end caps which are very reasonably priced.

 



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