Kingpin Components tap with ignition cut out on it

Or fit one of Holland Norton Works' ball-valve kits (same principle as Velocette check valves, but bigger — and better? — components) which replace the standard gravel strainer cum banjo bolt in the oil tank outlet.

Gear pumps have poor suction capability until primed. If the pump has drained down, it will have to suck against an empty pipe. This is not ideal.  I prefer a tap with switch.  Then the most likely reason for disaster is during maintenance.

Regular riding cures wet sumping, a pump refresh by reducing the internal clearances will slow the wet sumping down. If your wet sumping is taking days or a couple of weeks to allow the oil tank filter to emerge then refresh the pump.

Hi Roger,

I only heard of the Kingpin valve via other satisfied users this forum and then in  Roadholder. Like many other members who have fitted one,  it just works. No more worrying if the 'automatic' anti drain valve is working or not.

 When starting the bike and it hasn't even chuffed after the 3rd or 4th kick, you realise you are being a numpty and haven't turned the tap on. Then it fires first kick. This only happens in front of a crowd of course. Testing it prior to fitting to see what would happen should the engine be running and if it were to shut itself, the ignition was off before there was any meaningful restriction to the oil supply. 

Passes the failsafe tests for me.

Not all owners are able to ride regularly to keep the oil where it should be, but with the tap fitted and the bike left unridden for a couple of weeks the oil is still in the tank ready for when you do want to go out.

I will say I have no connection with Kingpin other than as a very satisfied customer.

Regards,

George 

If the pipe downstream of a Velo-type valve is completely full of oil (the Velo Red Book makes special mention of this) there's no way the oil can drain through the pump as that would create a partial vacuum between the pump and valve, unless of course there was an air leak. I believe most problems with these valves is due to people not making sure of this. I've fitted a length of clear pipe below the (Yamaha) valve on my ES2 which makes it easy to check.

Hi. I’ve been using a Kingpin tap/switch unit for a few months and I can only say it works well. The only thing I’m not so keen on is the tiny grub screws used in the wiring connectors. I would have preferred slightly meatier terminals. I have fabricated a cover that goes around the switch and allows me to cable tie the wiring onto it so that it provides some strain relief for the wiring. That way there is no chance of the wiring moving around and possibly fracturing at the terminal connections - at least that’s what I’m hoping it does!

Regards

Tony

I agree with Ian on the vacuum in the line downstream of the ball valve. I fitted a genuine Velo valve to my Dommi in the  late 1980s, just needed an adaptor to fit the valve thread to the oil tank thread. Since then I have  never had a single wet sump episode and never had any issues with oil failing to reach the pump on start up.   IMHO the ball valve is far more aesthetically pleasing than a tap... 

My Mick Hemmings ball valve on a Mk 3 850 has always worked perfectly. Just follow the two golden rules - check oil returning to tank on each start up for a couple of minutes , and prime ball valve after every oil change.

I've used a Kingpin valve with electrical cut out on my 650SS for over 1000 miles now and it has been faultless. If a wire should break or come off the bike will stop or not start, this is a fail safe feature. The Kingpin is a very well made item that I would recommend to anyone

I'm not sure that adding an extra opportunity for the bike to unexpectedly lose power while under way is exactly "fail safe".

Oh you mean like running out of petrol is a dangerous situation that can cause us immanent  harm????

When I said fail safe I was referring to the bike not being able to run with out a pressurized oil feed

Exactly so; given that so many drivers (a) follow preceding vehicles excessively closely, and (b) rely on brake lights to signal that the vehicle in front is slowing down, anything that might lead to an unexpected and unsignalled loss of speed is a hazard.

I guess this type of wired in valve is aimed at stopping battery/coil ignition bikes from wet-sumping by interupting the ignition circuit when the valve is in the "closed off" position Can it be fitted effectively to a magneto ignition bike. ie. how do you interupt the ignition circuit with a magneto...... 

There are two types of the Kingpin valve, one for coil/battery ignition and one for magnetos.

... the mag one would only work for K2Fs and the like which have an earthing terminal for the ignition cutout. No use with an MO1 or similar as fitted to singles.

Kingpin also make a replacement end cap for MO1s with a cut-out facility, but ease of fitment will depend upon the exact style of primary chaincase. Some are very close to the cover on a face-cam MO1