Jubilee ignition switch.

If it’s been converted to 12v the I\E switch is not needed if you have an ignition switch, so why not put the ignition switch there ?

I should add that I have a hidden fuse that I take out for security and to stop battery going flat. 

You say this switch is 4 position. So why do you need 4 positions? Perhaps you mean 4 terminals? But if you have a simple make/break then fit it as you describe.

Dan-your description of the I/E being not needed is not quite right, what you mean is, once converted to 12V the Emergency ignition function is lost.

Maybe....As it happens once you have gone 12V with these machines, the Emergency start is defunct. I am under the impression that it should start either way on the ignition switch. But of course whether it starts on alternator or battery in the emergency position I am not sure. BUT it should start on the Ignition position from the battery. A test you could do, if the bike is 6 V. Disconnect at least two of the alternator wires. Then see if it starts, if it does then it is starting on battery. If not then it is on alternator. Either way this does not seem right, I am investigating the problem, we will be back!

I am back, after judicial investigations ie read the Norton Manual! On Emergency position the alternator is connected for full output to the rectifier thus boosting the Battery voltage. So with the 6V system the bike will/should start in IGN and EMG, with the battery applied to the coils. BUT in the EMG position the alternator is connected for full output to the rectifier and thus to boost charge the battery. Especially useful when the battery is low/flat. But do not continue in EMG for too long (10 mins)

In your case John if you can only start and run on EMG and your switch is wired correct then you will over charge the battery in a few miles. But you might have lost a switch function (inside the switch) or you have the switch wired 'gobbledegook' in which case 'over to you'

Of course if you have 12V then all this is quite insubstantial. 

Al, it’s unusual that I can add anything of value to an electrical discussion but here goes! .... My comment about the I/E switch not being needed if you switch to 12 volts and an ignition switch  was not well described, what I meant was the I/E switch is effectively an unlocked ignition switch, so in my opinion it would be better to replace it with a locking ignition switch - simple on off - rather  than drill a hole in a panel for a second switch. If you were really clever perhaps it would be possible to glue the Wipac knob to a cut down key shaft so it looked like the original switch when it was inserted. 

Interestingly (Or not!) I have converted to 12v and fitted a new replica Wipac switch, mine switches on the ignition in either I or E but the “I” side of the switch is a bit flakey and sometimes doesn’t connect, so I use E. My guess is that so long as John’s switch is wired ok that it is a “bit” defective like mine! 

Dan

Yes Dan you are right (for once!). This is exactly the situation with the IGN-EMG switch. They get 'flaky' and it is best to fit A N other.

Now I tell you a Story- On my Electra, electric starting is limited to decent battery power. Which of course is limited. SO as we have Boyer Bransden ignition then voltage when starting can be an issue. SO I fitted a traditional toggle switch for the ignition that by-passes the dodgy Wipac switch and also the voltage drop on the ammeter (and tired wiring). This gives me 0.5V extra at the ignition when under electric starter, it works better. But the ignition load is not seen by the ammeter-no problem.

John-Stealing a Jubilee? If it were a young opportunist, would he know how to ride it, even start it, after all the bike has a 'kick start'. But of course crap head kids do fiddle with light switches etc.