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can an body help my 750 commando starts easy when cold but when it warms up and let it tick over and then go to rev it up and let it shut down it stops and wont start until it cools down it has new amal carbs new coils new plugs checked the valve clearance it has boyer electronic ignition please help im at my wits end

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Pull a plug next time it will not start and hold it in the head and kick over bike checking for spark. Do you have the heat insulator spacers between carbs and manifolds.

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Worth checking for possible clogged filters in the fuel tap or carb.  

Also......the older Boyers would happily let an engine start and idle even if the pick-up wires were reversed by mistake. But as soon as the revs started to rise above idle speed the electronics would put the advance in reverse direction ie serious retard and kill the motor. Check the timing.

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Pilot jets could be wrong size in new Amals (too small). If newer Amal premiers used fit correct jets or if old style Amals fitted open fixed jets out to .45mm.

Good luck.

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When you start it, do you tickle the carbs and put the choke on? If not and it starts happily without choke, then it is probably running way too rich.

Tony

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the lowest the tickover will go is 1500rpm goes any lower than this it will stop and then will not start again untill its cold stars when cold when you tickle it checked all the jets in the new carbs and all are the right size

 

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Might be worth releasing the petrol tank cap next time in case the breather is blocked preventing fuel getting to the carbs

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think iv found the proplem there is some sort of gluee resin sticking to the air intake and  carberator body including the frottle slide and needle seems to be inside the petrol tank whitch is made of fiber glass and the ptrol is melting it ? any ideas please

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The new compounds that they are adding to the fuel will cause the fiberglass (and other coatings) to melt causing the resultant goo to clog the carb(s).

Your best cure is to replace the fiberglass tank with one made from steel or aluminum.

Mike

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Fibre-glass tanks are very susceptible to modern petrol and I believe that once they have gone soggy there's not a lot that can be done with them.  Best advice is from Michael above and that's to get a new tank made from steel or alloy.

cheers i thought that may be the only solution now to try and find one

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In Australia we have a coating that seals up rusty steel tanks. I've got it in my Ford.

It might be worth trying this stuff in your fibreglass tank befor you bin it completely. 

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You were lucky spotting it when you did, it can get on the valve stems and then jam the inlet valves open which then hit the pistons.

You now have to get rid of the resin. 

https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/clean-up-removing/

Clean epoxy resin or mixed epoxy residue with lacquer thinner, acetone or alcohol. 

Those small galleries and jets in the carbs will be all full of the stuff, you will need to get them soaked for a few days in one of the above fluids and cleaned ultrasonically. For the pilot jets drill out with a 16 thou drill for the old carb pilot bushes and 17 premier pilots, 18 thou drill for the 19 premier pilots.

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thanks everyone for your help had nortons for forty years but this rearly got to me

 


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