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M50 Overbore

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Greetings from Ireland.

I am in the process of rebuilding a 1962 Model 50. I am going down the route of the BSA A65 (+ 40 thou) piston and overboring the barrel to 76mm to give 399cc.

Has anyone ran this and if so what piston to cylinder wall clearance do you run?

I would also like to know does anyone have any technical data on these engines relating to specific engine measurements.

Right now I am looking for OEM barrel height, cylinder head thickness, conrod big end ID and crank big end OD.

Lastly what balance factor should I be aiming for? Keep as per 71mm bore or not.

Any help greatly appreciated.

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Mike Pemberton is the man to ask, he has much experience  in overboring and also stroking these engines.

He made me the parts to convert mine into a 85x88 499cc.

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Thanks for the reply Niall.

Yes I understand Mike is well versed on these singles.

Main reason I asked though is I hope to find someone, who like me, is doing this or has done themselves.

This is more of an engineering expedition than a restoration for me.

 

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So I have done the calculations.

As the engine is,how I received it with 30 thou overbore, the balance factor is 48%.

Bringing the bore to 76mm will give a balance factor of 45%.

Has anyone any experience or thoughts on this?

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Thanks for the reply David.

I don't know if I am making myself clear still though. On most documents I read 60% balance factor seems to be a magical number for unknown reason. Information regarding the task I am undertaking seems alien outside of specialists.

There is a 42g reciprocating weight difference by going overbore.

This engine will be increasing in cc and with more compression. 

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Hi Tommy,

   To obtain the perfect balance with a reciprocating single cylinder engine is impossible and the best you can expect is to obtain a smooth period at your most used rev range. I guess you are looking for more speed which will need a higher balance factor. Unfortunately what works well at 70mph will probably be rough at 40mph in the same gear. If you intend to use more revs, 60% is a good starting point, but there are so many other factors involved it's all a bit of guess work. Unless you want to do it all yourself, it might be best to get your flywheel assembly dynamically balanced and tell the operator what sort of rev range you are looking for. By the way, did you consider the extra weight of the thicker little end bush needed for the BSA piston ?

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Thanks for the reply Richard. Good info there and some things to consider. Regarding the new small end, I have a calculation done for the 19.05mm gudgeon pin but I'm in the process of turning a new bush anyway for exact weight calculation.

Bronze Bush

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Why not just get a piston and cylinder for an ES2?  Or even a whole ES2 engine while you are at it

Mike?

 

Hi Michael.

As I said in my second post.....This is more of an engineering expedition than a restoration for me.

Fitting an ES2 barrel and piston entails more work than what I am currently doing. 

Fitting an ES2 engine is also more work as I would only end up fully stripping and rebuilding that engine anyway if I had the want for one which I don't.

Unfortunately this is not something that can be achieved just through calculation, there are simply too many variables involved, and probably the biggest is the chassis, when Nortons put the ES2 and M50 into the featherbed chassis they had to change the crankshaft balance to suit and seem to have done it again when the slimline frame came in, likewise the 750 Commando has a radically different balance factor to the Atlas, a neighbour of mine who put a Commando lump into his wideline broke two cranks before he realised this.

The BMW R69S had to be fitted with a crankshaft torsion damper which the very similar R69 never had because they would literally snap the crankshaft off behind the flywheel if held at a certain rpm, which was found to vary considerably between otherwise identical bikes.

Ariel Red Hunters which had been tuned with HS parts needed to have the bottom front engine bolt left out to cure the resulting vibration, contrary to all accepted wisdom.

If I were you, I would try it with the crankshaft as is and the engine sprocket that you find best before doing any balancing, because firstly it might just be ok, and secondly it is always easier to take weight off a flywheel than to put it back on,

Be prepared for a lot of trial and error, and good luck!

 


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