AMAL Premier arrived...

...reading the cover of the pamphlet, it says it is for the Mk.1 Concentric, so i am guessing it does not cover the Premier. Appears that I may only need to replace the #200 main jet assuming the pilot jet is the correct size.  What i'm reading on the internet, the Premier is an improvement on the earlier Concentric; more tuneable with the adjustable pilot jet.  i need to better understand how the air needle on the right works with the pilot jet on the left.  When both are removed, i can see straight through.  

... your post showing the Mk.2 info; the carb i have is the Concentric Premier

...Thanks you for your reply. 

i was just on the Burlen site, i entered their download site and found their "Color Runing Guide" which i downloaded. 

The other piece of literature i saw is the  "Hints and Tips" pamphlet which came in the AMAL box my Premier came in.  The "Hints and Tips" is a wealth of information, such the old b&w pamphlet that came with early Concentrics back in the day.  It seems clear to me that the "Hints and Tips" applies to the Mk.1 Concentric and not the Premier.

I also went into Burlen's "Technical" site which jogged my memory showing that removable pilot jet once the bowl is removed.  Burlen's technical article with it's explanations and many pictures is outstanding.  It's been a long while since I've been into a Concentric, so seeing Burlen's pic brought it all back

If there is another piece of literature that i am not seeing on the Burlen site, let me know; otherwise if the 2 pieces i mentioned above; we're good.  

As an aside, i have a pair of the earliest type Concentric that were once fitted to my Royal Enfield Mk.1A Interceptor.  These early Concentrics do not have the "button extension" on top of the tickler such as the Mk.1 Concentric has nor the removable pilot jet.  My '74 Commando has the Mk.1 Concentrics with the "button" atop the tickler; it's been 12 years since i was inside my Commando carbs, so i could not visualize the removable pilot...

The only thing i want to better understand with the Premier is how the adjustable pilot jet on the LH side works in conjunction the pilot adjusting screw on the RH side; this screw is directly in front of the tickler.  The old Concentric's were blocked off in the area where the adjustable pilot jet is now on the Premier.

i rec'd the plastic float and new needle and had no leak on bench test.  Float chamber on carb, regardless of any position forward or aft the sucker leaked.  I decided to give up for the time being.  Will find a suitable box and put the aged gem away.

Installed the Concentric Premier and have the pilot screw dialed in for a steady even idle.  Tomorrow evening, i will go for a ride and see how the carburettor performs at the different throttle openings.

The leather washer pretty much solved the Tell Tale oil geyser.  There is nominal leak out of the tube, a bit more so from the top than the bottom.  I can live with it.  The bottom housing has a pretty good leak; i can live with it at least for the time being.  It seems I am closer than I have ever been to begin putting some time on the engine and get some miles smiles.

What oil do you fellows suggest for the gear box?

... 50 weight Phillips 66 ashless dispersant aviation oil.  To add oil to the gearbox, as you have noted, the small filler opening does create somewhat of a challenge to add oil to the gearbox.  i have some 50 cc syringes, so I am thinking i will probably use one to put oil in the gearbox.  I note the drain plug at the bottom of the rear wall of the gearbox.  With oil already in the gearbox, how will I know how much more oil needs to be added without overfilling?  Or do I drain what oil is in the gearbox and add the factory specified amount?

Thanks for your comments on the use of bearing shields, shims and felts used to prevent oil from too rapidly exiting the gearbox.  Not really any different that the transmission on my '27 Harley.  I would imagine a certain amount of oil leakage is expected...?  I will look up the quantity the factory calls for to "fill" the gearbox. or is there an amount you fellows recommend to add...?

...the plated cover that apparently is an interference fit? covering the kick start spring, should that slip off without to much fuss?  My cover seems to be held quite securely.  The reason i am asking, the return of the kick lever seems a bit weak and the p.o. sent along a couple new springs with the bike, so i am entertaining the thought of perhaps replacing the spring since the lever sometimes does not return...  not the easiest to grasp that cover, so before i were to attempt removing the cover, thought i'd ask!

Also, i am entertaining the idea of getting a kick lever that has the folding pedal...  Not yet sure i will replace the original, more of a thought than something i would actually do.  A while back, somewhere i read the type of folding lever that is used on later bikes can be fitted to the International shaft but i have been unable to find that thread.  Which model has the folding lever that can be fitted to the International? 

Kind regards

..."tun dishes?"  i think what you are saying about adding oil to the gear box is at some point oil will leak out faster from one area than the other, so experiment adding oil to a level that most slowly leaks...

...on the Premier is turned in to home, you fellows likely may already know this...  If accelerating from an idle to 1/4 open is not smooth then a larger or smaller jet needs to be tried to.  Pilot jets sizes are apparently from 15-23 and the Premier comes standard with a 17; the smaller the number limits fuel, the larger the number permits more fuel.  Will see how things go on my next test ride.  Given i am running a small air filter at 5,000 feet, i may need to move down to a 15, but at 5,000 feet we are on the cusp of needing to make any jetting changes, so the 17 may perform ok.

A further note on the pilot jets used in the Premier, the different sizes of jet are identified by the number of rings in the jet, a 15 has one ring, a 17 two rings, a 19 three rings and so forth and so on.

...I have several quarts of Kendall 30wt racing oil, but the idea of 50wt is logical.  i wonder how much 50wt slows down leaking?  Regardless, both are fluids and both will leak out, one more slowly (hopefully) than the other...  I hate to use my aircraft 50wt just to have it leak out... 

i do seem to recall reading in the factory literature recommending to mix oil and grease...  Has anyone tried the oil/grease concoction? Since i will be using a syringe to fill the box, injecting the oil/grease mixture can only double the fun. I wonder what grease would be advisable?  Just a standard grease, probably...

I can see myself taking a tub of grease, putting it in a pan, heating it on my shop hot plate, then adding a measure of oil until the brew has the consistency of a thick syrup...  What are you fellow's thoughts on this?

I think for the purpose of logging some test miles, I'll use up some of the 30wt i have on hand.

I love these old motorcycles!!!