I am new to the ownership of my Dominator 88.
This is my 3rd years of ownership of the bike,
Year 1 used at weekends when the weather was lovley.
Year 2 Not used at all ( tank/carb drained )
Year 3 ( Now) changed choke & throttle cable. Stripped and serviced carb with new gaskets (AMAL)
Drained oil tank, Sumpa nd gearbox, New oils SAE50 4.5pints and EP80/90 1 pint.
spark plugs cleaned.
i could not get the bike to kick over at all??
tried bumping- bike run but very rough.
then the bike would kick over but with alot of effort.
tried the following day could not kick over so bumped again and she started. she did kick over but not been able to kick over since.
Not sure if i messed with the screws on the Amal carb so followed hayes manual direction 1.5 turns for the pilot screw ffrom closed. not sure abt the other screw????
I would love some help on getting her running better and advice on where i could take her to get looked over ??
based in Albrighton, Shro[pshire.
hello well it's not the amal carb try putting the right oil in the sae50 should be in the gearbox and Duckhams w20/50 in the oil tank and then she just may start to heavy oil will be like treacle and it then has to be forced thought small oil ways No good it's no wonder the bike will not start, all this is your learning curve even my !954 Norton dominator model88 uses Duckham Q 20/50 classic and runs and like a sowing machine and my Norton Manxman 650 runs on Duckham Q 20/50 Classic It starts easy and runs nice getting the right oils it's that easy yours Anna J
Hi Neil, these sort of problems seem common after a prolonged lay-up. When you say 'kick-over' do you mean that the bike is physically difficult to kick-over on the starter lever or that the kickstart lever moves OK but the engine just won't start (which is what I think you mean). If it's the second then I imagine that your problem is probably blocked/dirty carb jets - new gaskets etc. are good but the carb will need a proper clean-out. As the bike was laid-up for a year or so then this is a common problem if the carb was left with petrol in it, SAE50 oil will be OK in the motor (as specified by Norton when the bike was new) however, long term, you might think about moving to 20/50 multigrade in the future.
Are the plugs sparking OK?
Welcome to the fold Neil.
Thank you for your replies.
kick over- yes the bike does kick over after I bumped it. ( but not easy at all plenty of kicks the kick start itself is free and moves easily) spark plugs are clean and good spark.
the carb was cleaned including jets it’s spotless....
I do have some Morris sae 50 and also have Morris saw 20w 50
so it it best for me to put the SAE 50 in Gearbox ?? SAE 20w 50 in the engine???
Any ideas on the screws??? Amal
Hello now Amal pilot jet screw should one and a half turns out to. Two turns when the engine is running and next the throttle screw for slow running you find all this information in your service Manuel or Haynes manual ,just give the carb a good tickel and get your finger wet then try a good kick some like a bit of choke some do not and flood easy but once she has a smell of petrol she start and run , but you must have the. Ignition leads on the right way round and normally the lead for the drive side is the one nearest the battery box coming from the mag or dizzy ,yours Anna j
I am still struggling get the bike to run...
carb cleaned & jets
new battery ( electronic ignition) good spark on both plug
will get new plugs tomorrow....
kicks easy enough and it sometimes try’s to start......
so now have no idea where to go so maybe time to get mechanic.....
Have you checked ignition? If it was running and you have not touched the ignition it is almost certainly set up correctly. Unless it has slipped, which can happen if it backfires.
All it needs is fuel, air and a spark.
Are you closing the carb air slide when starting it? And opening it straight away?
The lower screw with its head at the bottom only adjusts tickover. The horizontal one is important for starting, that's the pilot air screw, 1 1/2 turns out to begin with. If it does start and then seems very lumpy, it sounds like you need to lift the air slide. You don't have the throttle and air slide cables mixed up, do you?
It'll be OK soon!
Hi Neil, SAE50 or 20/50 are both OK for the engine. The gearbox needs EP90 (not SAE50).
This may sound a daft question but are you sure that you're using the choke properly. Cold starting - (choke closed) the choke cable should be in the slack position and once warmed-up the choke should be opened by pulling the cable to the 'tight' state. The only reason I mention this that when, in the early '70s, I got my first Commando and I got it wrong and I had exactly the same problems as you have. As it appears that you haven't altered many settings it's difficult to advise. However:
1) Are all the valves operating correctly (none stuck etc.)? - could be a problem after a lay-up
2) Are the valve clearances (tappets) correct?
3) Have you (or can you) check the ignition timing? - if you haven't moved anything since it used to ride OK then it's unlikely to be a problem but it's worth checking.
4) Does the carb 'tickle' correctly - press down the tickler and after a couple of seconds petrol should dribble - if it's much slower then you may have a blockage somewhere (tank tap filters clogged-up etc.)
On a Twin, if only one cylinder has a problem then they can be a pig to start - when you do manage to get it to run does it run on both cylinders? if not then just touch the exhausts - the duff cylinder pipe will be cold/cool - if this is the case then it's more likely to be valve-gear issues or possibly a coil problem (if the bike has twin coils rather than a distributor).
hello, all now we do know that EP90 does attack brass bushing in the gearbox and they ware more quickly has John Hudson told us all Now I use a Castrol ST 90 Witch does not Attack Brass Bushing in the Gearbox, you can use a 50sae in your gearbox that has brass bushing , yours anna j
Once again your information is wrong
See the technical section of this website, look under Heavy twins, Gearbox, oil types, Hypoid gearbox oils explained.
The last paragraph in the article is :-
Is hypoid oil good for your gearbox? This question has comes up from time to time and has featured recently on NOC-L. Apparently, the word is out that hypoid oil can damage non-ferrous parts of gearbox internals. However, there is a letter in the September 1998 issue of the Vintage Motor Cycle which should put our minds at rest. Here, Pat Lelliott who was until recently Technical Services Manager of Duckhams Oils assures us that for well over 30 years the hypoid gear oils manufactured by reputable companies have been formulated with additives that do not react with non-ferrous gearbox components.
David Kennedy in Roadholder No. 202, Nov/Dec 1998
That was in 1998 so well over 30 years before that is pre 1968. most likely early to mid sixties is when Hypoid oils got safe.
Please stop spouting spurious/wrong information
hello yet again peter your not reading thread right and there are many engineering forums on this subject and EP oil contain additives that are sulfur-based and will cause premature wear on yellow metals like brass or bronze bushings were as Castrol ST 90 as an additive that helps against corrosion and helps against wear and help out yellow metals when under stress So this gearbox oil is more suited for Norton Gearboxes with bronze bushings, And I do not care what anyone else says facts are the facts and even John Hudson said the same thing So try reading some of the thread correctly, And I have been around Nortons And other Makes since I was 15 years old So that's 51-years experience So please stop your disinformation Yours Anna J
My old friend worked in army tank gearbox development. He told me that in the tests they did, hypoid gear oil did stain bronze bushes but had no measurable ill effects. Allegedly they did at one time...many decades ago. Technology moves on...not always in a worse direction.
Norton recommended either 50 grade engine oil or 90 gear oil. The numbers for engine and gear oils have nothing to do with each other.
You must disagree with everything on the NOC website. Have you read the article headed 'Hypoid gear oils explained', Oil types, Gearbox, Heavy twins, in the technical section?
Maybe you should apply for a job as Technical services manager of Duckhams oils as you seem to know all sorts of stuff.
As this is a thread started by a new member having troubles starting his bike, can we please get back to the subject and not go totally off at a tangent. A heavier oil may may it a little harder to start but that is not his problem.
Anyone wiser than me that can explain why Neils bike is so reluctant to rotate. Never had that problem myself. Could there have been something gone wrong when servicing the carb? Like a gasket obstructing float movement. Tried start spray?
Are you still there, Neil? Is it actually stiff to turn over, or just unwilling to start? Or starts but unwilling to run? Does it spin easily with the plugs out? I started my Dommie a couple of weeks ago, after neglecting it for several months and it took a couple of minutes to get going properly.
I put new plugs in and still would not start.... so stripped everything again carb, cables.....
reset pilot screw to Haynes manual setting...
tried again and nothing, tried bumping again.... started and ran well but was revving fast...
turned her off and tried to kick again but would not start. It kicks over but won’t start....
then was speaking to a friend in the village and I mentioned that I had messed with the two screws... and that I had reset pilot screw and screwd the throttle screw all the way in......
he then told me that was wrong and to unscrew the throttle screw....
I did this tonight and a few good kicks she started........
now just got to set it up to tick over.... as it cut out when I let go of the throttle.... and tried kicking over again and again she started....
will have a play again tomorrow evening. any hints or tips ??? thank you all for your help...
You need a manual. Meanwhile, download the Amal carburettor tuning instructions. Various sites have copies. You probably won't need to worry about changing slide or main jets if it worked OK before but it will tell you which adjuster screw does what.
peter now I have no needed of any type of Job any more And I do not disagree with the NOC as this is not about the NOC as you seem to make threads personal against me, for some reason, and you seem to make simple engineering into a major engineering job, So the question is are you disagree with Castrol's data gearbox oils As they have Made ST90 for gearboxes with Yellow metals plain bearings, And these threads are only advisory And I urge owners to do there own research As there are lots of other threads on the internet out there, yours anna j
There is a lot of misinformation out there about the effect of modern gear oils on 'yellow metals'. All GL4 and GL5 oils are required to pass the ASTM D130 copper corrosion test, as were their predecessors. So you can, IMHO, use a modern gear oil to either of these specs in you gearbox. These universal test methods are backed by extensive field testing and subject to rigerous quality control. Where the anti scuff agents used are aggressive towards bushes, then corrossion inhibitors are added to the formulation to inhibit attack.
Never trust random posts on the web, Anna. Charles knows what he is talking about. The problem with the web is that 99% of its content has been copied from somewhere else. It scares me that, as books disappear, we can't trust anything we read.
I hope Charles will confirm but, as I understand it, hypoid gear oils are really intended for gears where sliding contact is dominant, like worm drives and skew gears. Since the Norton box has straight cut gears, hypoid gear oils aren't needed anyway, and we might as well use engine oil just as the manufacturer stated.
I'm trying to think where a hypoid gear oil might be a benefit, and the only place I can think of is the worm drive to the oil pump. And that's in engine oil anyway.
Neil - any more news on your bike? Sounds like it's sorted?
A small but often overlooked element in the starting procedure of most bikes and not only Norton is that when cracking open the throttle a little prior to kickstarting is to make sure that you hold the front brake lever in. The reason for this is to prevent the throttle being rotated round too much so as to excessively lift the carburettor slide . One sees many motorcyclists rotating the throttle automatically far too much as they operate the kickstart lever.
The choke is on when the lever is moved anticlockwise . Shortly after firing up my Dominator 99 I rotate the lever fully clockwise to the fully open position.
The throttle cable seems a bit to long also, found the product number and invoice for the cable I purchased from noville... it’s for the mono bloc carb.
called nor vile today and he has posted me out the correct cable for the Amal concentric carb... so hopefully that will help and once I set up the carb correctly it will be happy riding from there...
the cable I have now has a lot of play...
hello now, all this information about Castrol ST90 is from Castrol them selfs and has nothing what so ever from me I am just a messenger Now Ask your selfs this Why Has Castrol made ST90 As it says it was formulated for Gearboxes that have brass or bronze bushings as plain bearings just like our Norton have, And this is Fairy new type of Gearbox oil that Castrol As Formulated For Classic Vehicles Yours Anna J
If you look at the technical sheet on this oil, you will note that it is a GL4 quality product. As such it is almost certainly different in formulation from the product recommended by Norton all those years ago
hello Now your all missing the point GL4 and GL5 are not suitable for Norton Gearboxes Has Norton Gearbox are not under extreme presser, And the Gears has Brass Or Bronze Sleeve type bushing known as yellow metals, And in the last 10 years Castrol have formulated a GL3 oil for Classic and Vintage Cars and Motorcycles known as ST90 Now see castors own data sheet below yours anna j
By what evidence do you claim that GL4/5 oils are unsuitable for Norton gearoxes ?
If, as the equipment manufactures agree, the ASTM D130 copper corrosion test included in the API sequences ensures that there is no risk to bushes etc in their gearboxes, and that the requirements for GL4/5 are higher than those for the obsolete earlier specifications. Why would they not be suitable for use in Norton gearboxes ?
As I said earlier, their is a lot of misinformation out there on the net.
Hello So Castrol's own date sheet is disinformation then is this what you are now saying and GL3 ST90 is no good at all then. And you lot know better then Castrol at make these oils I rest my case. Yours. Anna j
Norton themselves recommended EP90 (it says so in my factory workshop manual!) So you disagree with the actual makers of our bikes as well!
It says in on the spec sheet of Castrol ST90 that it is 'For gearboxes and differentials where a non low EP gear oil specified'
One might wonder if Castrol marketed ST90 to cater to the paranoia surrounding this and so shift/sell on a lower spec oil.
I'd be a bit worried about putting ' Fairy new type of gearbox oil' in my gearbox.
Fairies know less about making gear oil than my dog!
As stated above Castrol offer both GL3 and GL4 products for 'classic applications' As to knowing more than Castrol. This is simply a silly remark since it is not Castrol who state ,erroneously, that GL4 /5 oils are not suitable for Norton gearboxes. As the tribologistfor the company from whom they bought the additive formulations used in their oils, I had excellent relations with them on the proffesional level. As to ,they are now part of BP and now are not the company who formulated oils in the 50's.
P.S. you ignorred my point about evidence of harm and why ASTM D130 is not guarantee of non corrosion of bushes.
hello so you need more proof that oil additives in EP oils are corrosive to yellow metals now see pdfs
Again have you read that article? or have you just skimmed it for evidence? I suspect the latter. The following paragraphs are copied from the first page.
'History: The gear oils of a few decades ago had lead additives that were effective at wear reduction, but not very good for the environment. A long time ago they began to be replaced by gear oils with a phosphorous additive (in itself a decent anti-wear additive) with active sulfur to grip hold of the gears and create a very solid sacrificial layer of material that could be worn off, thereby protecting the gear surface. Eventually it was discovered that the active sulfur was causing corrosion of brass and other soft metals used in differentials and transmissions. Somewhere around 30 years ago a deactivated or buffered sulfur was developed that would react with the phosphorous to create the protective/sacrificial layer in the conditions created in the gear boxes (temperature and pressure) without being corrosive to the brass, copper, etc. This additive system is used in most gear oils today. The problems arise when we try or need to use the same product in the transmission that we use in the differential. Many people have called oil companies and been told by the “Techs” that answer their questions that their oils have buffered sulfur and therefore are not corrosive to yellow metals, so their GL-5 oils can be used with brass components. While that answer is totally correct, it does not address the question asked: Can I use your GL-5 in my synchromesh transmission?
Stick to putting your Fairy oil in your manxman, It actually might fly! Not!
I detect a reaction here that is a little upsetting for new members to experience. I live in farming countryside, and one oil fits all in old tractors, nobody cares as long as it runs. Fence wire and baling twine do most repairs, the only blot on the horizon are the Green Loonies trying to save the Planet with their windmills and solar panels. In all old Nortons, engines that go round are a bonus. We should be gratefull that there are no nasty modern things they call computers. Imagine the forum pages that would be taken up with computer faults.
I love technical stuff, so oil used to be Castor Oil, nasty smelly and causes cancer in anyone who lives too long. All the WW1 pilots got covered in it and were too black and slippery to catch by the Germans. They all suffered a side effect commonly known as the screaming trots. This particular oil is very good for ancient engines and gearboxes, but it oxidises and forms a nasty coatng when hot, lovelly smell, and makes your old sidevalve Norton ten miles an hour faster, and black inside! They won the TT on it, didn't they. Then whales donated their Blubber (fat) to the public, this makes steam engines go round and up and down, its very smelly, and gives you Cancer. It was used to make your rattly old Norton on the machine tools. All the modern stuff is made from Bones (fossils), thats what the Greens tell us. Now as we are saving the ungrateful Planet, oil is made from treated eco unfriendly gas. So as everything is made from something the Planet supplies, we should be grateful that someone somewhere has put all this together and made something of use for us to argue about. It is of course your old Norton Motorcycle, and some engines power your old farm tools too. Have a nice day everyone.