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Primary drive - conventional or belt?

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Hi,

I’m going to have to completely replace all of the drive side parts of my basket case Dommie 99 (1960). I’m dithering between a ‘conventional’ primary system or a belt drive system.  I have no experience of belt drives but have suffered with a leaky primary in the past  so would like to hear opinions on which type of primary drive people have used and what the pros and cons are.

Also, if anyone out there has real-time experience of fitting a belt drive to a Dommie, I’d be interested to hear how difficult it is to fit and how well it works.

Can you use a standard alternator rotor and stator with a belt drive or are special components needed? 

Are there good and bad belt drive systems or are they all equal?

Thanks

Regards

Tony

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It is possible to get the original chain drive and clutch to work well and to make the case 99% leakproof .It does take a lot of patience though . I have got there. If switching to a belt drive will get you a sealed ball bearing mounted non drag clutch with a built in shock absorber and a fail safe alignment system then I would go for it.Absolutely.  I don't think we are 100% there yet.

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Hi Robert.

Many thanks for your reply - that’s just the sort of information and opinion I’m looking for. It sounds like the chain primary is still the way to go even though the leaking cover is still the biggest challenge.

Regards

Tony

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Hi Robert,

    It depends what you need to repair your existing chain system. from a costing point of view the chain system should win hands down, even if you have to replace all the plates and  shock absorber rubbers and chain/sprockets etc, but your question was about the pro and cons of belt drive so here goes.

I fitted a belt drive system to my M50 ( 1960 slimline alternator) about 5 years ago and have been delighted with it. I purchased it from M Hemmings and came complete with all the parts for a very easy fit. the only slight machining required was on the stator basket to allow the new pully flange to clear, I also fitted a  commando type clutch arm in the gearbox with a slightly  different radius on to allow for the  diaphragm clutch.

The outer chain case went on with no problem, although to enable a bit more air to get into the clutch I removed the seal on the inside chain case where the gearbox mainshaft fits.

For :- NO LEAKS, nice if slightly heavy clutch action, easy fit, (my clutch has a sealed bearing fitted)   Against :- no shock absorber  in clutch  (I havent noticed any problem with this, and your dominator should be even smother )     I have covered a total of over 18000 miles in 6years, with very little adjustment.

Hope this helps , Regards John O                                                                              

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I'm too interested in this for my long time 650 project. I have the chain drive and clutch in good condition and an almost new Newby clutch and belt drive. Bought it very cheap. Whichever I chose, the other can be used for a future project.

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Hi All,

Although not a twin, my ES2 has been running on such a conversion for years. I have done hundreds of miles and never had a problem with it. The original problem I had was a temperamental clutch which would sometimes slip but then drag in traffic. I opted for a diaphragm clutch and belt drive which cured all these problems. I also have  very light clutch action at the lever which makes riding more pleasant.

Hope this helps,

Albert

Malta

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I consider that a chain drive that has been well sorted is more reliable than a belt drive.Once sealing issues and wobbly drum fixed ,no need for the expence of a belt drive.  I can select neutral after coming to a stop at lights and no drag. I don't think this is  the normal experience though.My 99 is behaving perfectly with no attention from me for yonks,my lads say that is the secret!!.I will remind them of their insolence next time they break down and need me.

 


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