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Wet sumping - quantifying

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Hi

I have only recently joined NOC having just bought a 1972 750 Commando - so this is my obligatory newbie silly question.

I used to have a fastback back in 1974 and in those days used the bike every day and had never heard of wet sumping!

I have read other threads discussing the problem and various cures but have not seen anything quantifying the problem.

My commando loses 700ml per week into the sump, with 20/50W Halfords classic oil.

Does this sound normal or is it a lot for a week?

Steve

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Previously steve_constable wrote:

My commando loses 700ml per week into the sump, with 20/50W Halfords classic oil.

Does this sound normal or is it a lot for a week?

Steve

I think 700ml is way too much, having said that I don't know what would be normal for an engine with new big end journals and shells and a brand new oil pump, but certainly a lot less than 700ml. Worthwhile servicing or replacing the oil pump and then checking oil pressure with a hot engine (gauge connected to rocker feed inlet, for example) and aim for the factory recommended 45-55lb/in max. pressure. Add or remove shims from PRV. Tickover should be approx. 15lb/in min. When cold the pressure should still be within the 45-55lb/in if the PRV is working properly. I'd also use one of the latest 20/50's.

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Steve,

Go to the Roadholder pages of this site, navigate through the archive to Rh 327, February 2015 then read, mark and digest Phil Hannam's most excellent article on refurbishing the Commando oil pump.

From the data you have posted, I think you might be needing to take some action on the issue .........

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My commando loses 700ml per week into the sump, with 20/50W Halfords classic oil.

Is that 100 ml overnight? I think that would pump back into the tank pretty quickly. Also it is not really "lost" if it goes right back into the tank. I haven't done this test but I don't think 100 ml would even touch the flywheel (I want to run out and test this with my spare crankcase). I think others should tell us their actual leakdown so we could compare.

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The crankcases filling with oil is a symptom of a problem - in this case probably an oil pump significantly worn so as not to provide sufficient oil pressure in a hot engine. Well worth taking the time to service the pump and check/adjust the oil pressure.

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The Commando Oil Pumps, made in the 70s, suffered from mass production and poor quality control. I have pulled a good many apart and most have exhibited poor finishing on all of the mating faces. Some have had faces where grinding marks/ridges are so prominent that they will catch a finger nail. This is bad news once the engine oil is hot as it will seep through even the smallest of gaps.

So when you have dismantled the pump remember to check the end plates and their respective mating edges as well as the main mounting face.

The original Pump was designed to last about 100,000 miles before a need for a major service. That was before the driving gears were changed to 6-start and doubled the internal speed of the pump. A great idea, at the time, for increasing the oil pressure but the downside was double the wear, especially on the scavenge side which spends a lot of time running on air. This leads to wear on both the end plate and inside the body behind the gear. Plus wear in the drive shaft tunnel. A point often missed by the DIT refurbisher. If your Commnado has covered 50,000 miles or more on its original oil pump and is wet-sumping badly, it is probably due a service..........possibly a funeral service.

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Previously steve_constable wrote:

Hi

I have only recently joined NOC having just bought a 1972 750 Commando - so this is my obligatory newbie silly question.

I used to have a fastback back in 1974 and in those days used the bike every day and had never heard of wet sumping!

I have read other threads discussing the problem and various cures but have not seen anything quantifying the problem.

My commando loses 700ml per week into the sump, with 20/50W Halfords classic oil.

Does this sound normal or is it a lot for a week?

Steve

Hello Now this is a on going problem for all Norton Motorcycles its all down to a number of factors and the Classic motorcycle Belief system of British motorcycles Dry sump system and how its understood the thing is you do need some oil in the sump area on start up, has its a link in the oil chain you need oil there for the oil pump to have something for it too scavenge in the first place , or its pumping air for sometime until enough oil can be scavenged and do not for get if there is not oil for the oil pump to scavenge then the rockers arms are without oil too and the pressure then drops and the pressure relief valve then closes and the large ends have little oil too until the oil pump regains oil and its pressure back to normal So this is why Taps or Anti wet sumping ball valve are not a good idea , the only thing that will do is a reed valve has its has little chance of going wrong , And its what Royal Enfield Big Heavy twins use has a crankcase relief valve , So get the oil pump up too good condition and clean all the oil ways and replace the pressure relief valve too , and get thing working has they should be and try using Morris oils Has our Club Recommends yours Anna J
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Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

if there is not oil for the oil pump to scavenge then the rockers arms are without oil too and the pressure then drops and the pressure relief valve then closes and the large ends have little oil too until the oil pump regains oil and its pressure back to normal
yours Anna J

I don't think this bit applies to Commando. Rocker feed is from high pressure (engine feed) side.

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Thanks all

What a great resource this site is!

I will Change the oil to Morris 20/50 as suggested and will investigate the oil pump.

I would still be interested to hear the results if anyone else would take the trouble to measure how much oil travels to the sump in 7 days?....

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Hi Steve,

I will check my 850 commando its been stood just over five weeks , i have been working on the primary drive side so i will measure what i caught in the tray the other day also i will drop the sump plug tomorrow and have a measure up and let you know.

Andrew

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Need to point out i run a belt drive ,so i run dry, the oil i caught came from behind the primary inner casing..

Andrew

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Steve, over seven days I'd hardly expect to be able to see any noticeable drop on the stick. More than a pint over a week is pretty horrendous.

The more recently produced Andover Norton pumps...the last ten or fifteen years or so really are a great improvement in terms of production quality and are a simple answer to the problem. Prior to these, even a new pump wasn't guaranteed to completely solve the problem. I wouldn't bother attempting to recondition a forty-year old original pump anymore.

Strictly speaking, 'wet sumping' is the failure of a dry sump engine to scavenge properly at high r.p.m. but everyone in the world of Nortons uses it to refer to this known habit of draining down past the gear pump when standing. Some smart-arse always comes along to point it out though !

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Strictly speaking, 'wet sumping' is the failure of a dry sump engine to scavenge properly at high r.p.m. but everyone in the world of Nortons uses it to refer to this known habit of draining down past the gear pump when standing. Some smart-arse always comes along to point it out though !

We are watching our language evolve (or become more sloppy). In America you ask for a cotter pin and they sell you a split pin.

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Strange eh, Jonathan, when I was a lad, 'cotter pins' were those odd things that I could never file the correct taper on...and once they were in, could never drift out without bending the threaded portion. Were they bimetal with a hardened face and a monkey metal thread ?

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Previously richard_payne wrote:

Strange eh, Jonathan, when I was a lad, 'cotter pins' were those odd things that I could never file the correct taper on...and once they were in, could never drift out without bending the threaded portion. Were they bimetal with a hardened face and a monkey metal thread ?

That's what they are on my Triumphs and BSAs. Luckily Nortons don't use them. I don't know about bimetal, they always seem to be too soft and the wedging action disappears.

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Hi ,

Finally at last the 850 MK 111 oil drained out the sump. Its been stood now for six weeks and i released 1800ml so thats 300ml a week , it seemed a lot, and i was thinking OMG this is like an oil change .

Kind Regards

Andrew

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700Ml in three weks on mine and that's with a reground crank and shells. Oil pump reconditioned 8000 miles ago. I've modified my big sump plug with a small drain plug and magnetic pick up so draining down a flooded sump is a 20 minute job.

I've just been playing with an old windscreen washer pump to suck the oil from a banjo bolt where my mag plug is. work in progress. The idea is that before a ride, press the button, and watch the oil being pumped back to your tank. need a better pump at the moment. I know I'm dealing with the symptoms not the cause. The problem doesn't justify a new pump...... yet.

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David, Andrew - thanks for the feedback.

i don't know if you can turn into a geek at my age, but I am finding this interesting.

So, given that my oil drain down is excessive and that the body of wisdom puts this down to a worn oil pump, here is my plan.

I will change the oil pump for a new one and then do the following tests.

take the bike for a ride and immediately drain the sump to see what volume of oil normally stays in the sump.

after a week I will drain the sump again to see what the drain down rate is with the new pump.

I may do this from cold as well to see what difference the oil temperature makes.

I will report the results in a couple of weeks.

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Previously steve_constable wrote:

Thanks all

What a great resource this site is!

I will Change the oil to Morris 20/50 as suggested and will investigate the oil pump.

I would still be interested to hear the results if anyone else would take the trouble to measure how much oil travels to the sump in 7 days?....

Well my 650 Manxman wet sumps when stood for a month . I don't bother about it just start the bike anyway it normal start with in two kicks just warm the bike up , what bit goes through the breather ends up in the catch tank and lubes the rear chain the catch tank in-between the oil tank a battery box pipe goes to chain guard and oil tank tower breather so nothing much is lost-ed in the way of oil, I did change the oil pump for a good one , the original one going to get serviced , ASP Just get out there a ride the bike, have fun do not worry about oil if it going round the engine OK its fine, all you need to check is that oil is coming back into the oil tank , yours anna j
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Previously andrew_windsor wrote:

Hi ,

Finally at last the 850 MK 111 oil drained out the sump. Its been stood now for six weeks and i released 1800ml so thats 300ml a week , it seemed a lot, and i was thinking OMG this is like an oil change .

Kind Regards

Andrew

I would check the oil seal in the timing cover

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Previously christopher_winsby wrote:

Hi,

I am not a commando expert but my 750 emptied the oil tank into the sump in no time when sitting ,also at that time the pistons were at the bottom of the stroke when the bike was switched off.This made it hard to turn over on start up to bring the pistons up to the top to fire it up.

Don't know why but the old girl began to leave the piston up top when switched off, this made the machine very easy to start and it can now sit for 3 or 4 months without losing much oil(maybe half to three quarters inch on the sight glass) and starts easy with good return to the oil tank.

I did read an article about putting the pistons up top to prevent oil draining to the sump from the tank when the bike is left to sit a while and it is cheaper than a new oil pump.

just my own personal experience on enjoying my 1969 745

best regards JG

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If you are getting wet sumping, dismantle the oil pump, and check the clearance on the pressure side gears. That means the thinner side....

Put the pressure gears into the housing, and a good straight edge across. Measure the clearance between gear and the outer face. If it's more than nothing, you need to lap the pump body. If the face is less than nicely smoothe, get lapping. When the clearance is close, but not actualy tight, clean it up and re-assemble. You won't have any wet-sumping

Paul

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Hello remember that Commando oil pumps-run faster than the early Dominators do , so they will wear faster too so Checking your oil pump periodically would only be a good thing, and a Good Oil will be better than cheap oil , Morris oils and Millers oils and Castrol are the most recommended , yours Anna J

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Hi

I replaced my oil pump last week with a new one from AN and new seals all round. The new pump was nice and tight with no discernible play. Filled up with 20/50 so that it would be a true comparison

I took it out for a run and then emptied the sump to see how much oil remains there - about 130ml. Is this normal I wonder?

After a week I emptied the sump again to see how much had leaked past the new pump. This was 350ml.

Remember, with the old pump, I had 700ml after one week.

So, the new pump has improved things but not solved the problem.

Perhaps it would be less with 40W or 50W. I will try this next year when it gets warmer.

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Remember that after cutting your engine there will be a quantity of oil still in the head and other parts of the motor that will drain down to the sump. This is normal as it helps to prime the oil pump on the next start-up. I would have thought that a total of 350ml after a week was acceptable. It would bereasonable to assume that only 220ml of that amount had come via the pump and that a similar amount would arrive by the end of week 2. So after 3 weeks your oil tank would have lost about a pint. The Commando oil tank holds around 5 pints so no need to panic until week 6.

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Previously Phil Hannam wrote:

Remember that after cutting your engine there will be a quantity of oil still in the head and other parts of the motor that will drain down to the sump. This is normal as it helps to prime the oil pump on the next start-up. I would have thought that a total of 350ml after a week was acceptable. It would bereasonable to assume that only 220ml of that amount had come via the pump and that a similar amount would arrive by the end of week 2. So after 3 weeks your oil tank would have lost about a pint. The Commando oil tank holds around 5 pints so no need to panic until week 6.

Hello just start the bike every two weeks problem solved Do not worrie about it , I don't the bike starts runs nice rides nice leave well alone just check the oil after you started and run the bike if you can see oil in the tank and is coming from the return over flow your ok just check your oil leave , yours anna j

 


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