Views on Powder Coating

Tried paint 35 years ago on a frame, have been powdercoating them ever since and will not go back. Watch out who you pick for the powdercoating, they must have experience doing Brit bikes so they know the finish needed and the parts to mask. On a Commando there are a few more places to mask due to the iso's, do those bits yourself using the Oldbritts site as a guide (they also do a few areas you would expect an experienced powercoater to do anyway, discuss this with the powder coater).

https://www.oldbritts.com/powder_coating.html

I use blu tac to fill holes, the blasting media bounces off it and the heat does not affect it.

I had a Norton Stove enamelled about 40 years ago. Never been used and good as new.

Had an Ossa trials bike powder coated and never used - still good as new.

Nothing much to choose between the two.

If its done right it is great but as with painting if not done correctly it can be a nightmare. Go to somewhere with a good reputation or recommendation of someone (who you trust). Many things i wouldn't bother even trying to clean and paint myself (i have no love of painting part of a rebuild) i take them to a small local business a few miles away and they do a lovely job for less than what the paint alone would cost me plus they are faster to.

Where are you in BC by the Way?

Dan

I had my Commando frame powder coated many years ago, when it came to do a strip and freshen up, probably 20 years later, the rear loop had extensive corrosion where the coating had cracked after a minor accident and moisture had tracked along under the coating. For that reason i went with etch primer and a two pack paint. that's my thoughts.

I recall Mr Cohen's views on powder coating frames; if there's a structural failure beneath the finish, a powder coat will mean you could be the the last to know. Or words to that effect.

I've powder coated several frames. I wouldn't do it any other way now. After all it is powdered paint and just another method of applying it. Much tougher and scratch resistant than paint itself. One thing to consider is the sheen you want on the final product. My frames have been done semi-gloss which makes it look like factory paint.

I have 3 bikes in use ,one powdercoat,one 2 pack,and one brushed with Transport synthetic coach paint. the powdercoat has the poorest finish with no prep and lots of pitting ,obviously the coaters were used to commercial work which needed no prep!, the two pack looks "proper" for a 30's bike ,will chip and scratch a bit but thats what happens if you are not just a poser. The brush job does fine,no one notices that its not perfect with its dusting of mud and road muck,and its easy to touch up. You do intend to use your bike ,don't you??.

Whatever you use, I doubt if you will want to repaint the frame to the original finish which was just a very thin coat of black cellulose straight on to bare steel not even undercoated...(I bought a new one at the time so I DO know)

Powder coating is very good but unlike the powder coater Henry Cole uses (TV fame ) I have never found one that uses a primer before putting on the powder....wish I could. As Robert above says, most firms are used to new commercial work where the metal is smooth but when they get rusty metal they shot blast it clean which cores out the rust and leaves lots of deep hollows. The best way to avoid this poor finish is to file the rusty area flat and smooth it quickly with 60 or 120 grit paper even aluminium oxide sand paper is OK. You just have to remove the deepest pitting and blend it into the good metal surrounding the pits but don't have to leave a dead smooth finish as the blasting will finish it off smooth enough. Also tell them not to put too much powder on as this can cause lots of problems....you just need a thin cover really....

Les

I had two frames powder coated at the same time, a BSA one and a featherbed. The BSA is in constant use and the finish remains good. The featherbed was hung up in the shed for a number of years and when retrieved was in a poor state. Hmm. Can't explain that one.

Dare I mention Hammerite smooth as used by Frank Westworth?

Gordon Johnstone:"Dare I mention Hammerite smooth as used by Frank Westworth?"

Yes, Hammerite Smooth can provide an excellent, long lasting, tough, deep black, (or other primary colours) full gloss finish...and needs no undercoat or primer.* Unfortunately the spray version is extremely thin and dries slowly which doesn't help in the application of it...The only way you can get decent coverage is by dusting it on lightly over periods spaced about half an hour between coats other wise it is guaranteed to run and sag...it will probably need at least 6 coats or more....so not for the inexperienced sprayer. The paint on version is thicker but I prefer spraying. I was told by another good quality car paint supplier that it is much cheaper to fill the can with solvent than paint so to be fair to the buyer, I wish Hammerite would increase the solids content which would make the spray can version so much better as the stuff is far from cheap...and they would get better reviews and consequently sell more...Les

* With renovation jobs, there will be many times that fillers have to be used so in these cases, if Hammerite is chosen, I'm not sure it will adhere as strongly as it would to bare metal.....might be OK and can't remember if I have had success like this.

Another excellent spray can paint is/was? (now reformulated I think ) ... PJ1 "FAST BLACK" "porcelain Hard epoxy paint"...This is applied as normal rattle can spray paint.....Highly Recommended IMO.....Les

I have an aversion to powder coat and would certainly never use it again on a Commando where the interface between rear engine plates / cradle and the crankcase through studs are the only thing which more or less keep the rear wheel in line with the front. All driving loads are taken through that area and if enough is masked off or chipped away to ensure a decent seating then there isn't much point in repainting anyway as there won't be much left.

The same can be said of the area where the swing arm bushes have to be slid over the mounting.

In terms of looks, powder always seems to lose the definition on welds and brazed joins. Perhaps ideal if you have a 1970s Suzuki but a shame if you have Norton frame welding.

Later Commandos were primed. In my opinion, the best compromise in terms of looks and durability is a 2-pack paint finish.

If you want to avoid the pitting under the powder coat, get the frame back after it's been sandblasted and fill in deeply grooved or corroded areas with brazing. You also have to make sure the blaster is not using too aggressive a grit and they can destroy the whole surface with too aggressive media and too high pressure.