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Torque settings

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I don't usually concern myself much with these, but I'm surprised none of my books has a setting for the camshaft nut. Is there a recommended value? Is it ever known to be a problem?

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 bike in top gear and  back brake on, I do mine up firmly with a 12" ring spanner and a touch of nut lock.  You cant go too mad as you only have the cam chain to resist. the force. I use a cutaway cover to avoid straining the intermediate  gear  spindle.Never come loose.

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That the cam is cast iron and as such won't take a big torque.

As Robert says, tight with a normal spanner.

 

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David......did you remember to put the Woodruff key back in its slot?

Attachment is page 1 of Chapter 25 from the revised DSNs.

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Thats  a really usefull chart.  Going to print it and nail it to my tool cupboard.  I'm also making a list of  all  the fasteners on my 99 and the size of socket  that fits , fed up with all the tooing  and frowing ,  Followed by the bad tempered throwing .!.

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Thanks Phil! I should have checked the web site first.

I did remember the key...I did have to take the sprockets back off because I forgot to paint white spots on the bottom gear teeth alongside the marks...when it is all offered up the cam chain totally covers the marks on the gear faces, so the teeth need their own marks. It's a while since I last went in there. I stripped it to Loctite the spindle, with 601. Seems to have worked.

I wish I could find a good way to lock the engine when tightening the cam and alternator rotor. Getting a sprag between the primary sprockets is a pain because of the footrest tube.  I'm sure it's worth a special tool.

I hope it stays put...no loctite on the nut.

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A length of rope down through the plug hole works for me.

 


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