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Thunder conrods

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Hi.

The conrods on my Dommie 99 basket case don’t look that great so I was thinking about getting some Thunder Engineering Lightning conrods. I really worry about a rod letting go at some point - that was the action that turned by bike from a runner into a basket case when the previous owner had a massive engine failure. He provided some replacement rods but I’ve no idea of their history so I’m a bit wary of using them. They are well worn and the small end bushes are shot so I thought the money would be better spent on new rods rather than renewing  bushes in the old ones.

I’d appreciate hearing any views on these conrods when used in a Dommie 99 or any other opinions.

Thanks

Regards

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Hi Tony,

In a mere 20 years of NOC membership, I have learned that of all the heavy twins, the 99 is the most likely to break a rod if taken to high revs. The original 99's did back in the 60's, and 50 years on, they won't be any stronger.

To me, for peace of mind alone I would go with the new Thunder rods rather than trying to refurb the unknown history originals. Might cost more now, but potentially a lot cheaper in the long run.

Regards,

George

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The things I would be interested in would be  the size of the small ends ,and the weight . I have been considering buying rods myself, or converting the 99 to a 650 which would need a crank,rods and a little case welding.

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Thanks George. I must admit that new rods would give a lot of peace of mind, and that’s worth a lot of money.

Robert, I’ve been in touch with a guy at Thunder Engineering and he says that the small end eyes are bored to take the standard (original) gudgeon pins running directly in the rod eye (no bush). So if you have pistons that use a smaller/larger diameter gudgeon pin than the original, then you’d need to do a bit of work to get the sized correctly.

The only slightly worrying thing is that the RGM web page for the Thunder rods says that there could be clearance issues with the crankcases and/or the spigots on the underside of the barrels. That would mean having to grind away lumps of metal - not something I want to do. Why is nothing simple with Norton’s? ;-)

Does anyone know of any other conrod makers who supply aftermarket rods for Dommies?

Regards

Tony

In reply to by fritz_wettstein

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No Norton rods for the 7,77,88,99  have been produced since the factory moved from Birmingham to Woolwich some time in the early 1960's , Dealers stock only, and that ran out pretty Quick.My contact who was based at Woolwich told me that no barrels and few rods came into his stores from Birmingham.Much of what Woolwich produced for Nortons at that time was poor and finished up in the scrap bins.Took a while to sort things out.

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You can send Thunder-Race your con-rods and they will copy them, and they will be so much better and stronger than the originals, or OEM  items. I had a pair made as well as a crankshaft for a unit engine, and what came back was an amazing product. Dealers still had new 99 con-rods in the 1970's as I bought a new pair from Taylor Mattersons of Balham when they closed down, with a pair of new big ends shells. I still have them, and I have kept them just in case. The other option, is a pair of the American made Carrillo's rods in steel, but that would be an expensive option. I bought a pair of those for my 750cc engines in the 1990's and they are an amazing piece of engineering.  

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I've had Thunder Engineering rods in my 99 for a few years now. I did check for clearance but no modification was required. I did get the crank balanced though.

I'm not sure how con-rods machined from billet alloy can be stronger than forged alloy versions.

 

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On the exact material used and its subsequent stress relief and heat treatment. 

I agree that with exactly the same alloy, same dimensions and heat treatment the forging should be stronger when new, but aluminium (and most of its alloys) has a finite fatigue life, meaning that  it will fail eventually.

Thunder have been doing rods for a long time now so personally I think that they have sorted out what materials to use and what not to by now. 

George 

In reply to by george_farenden

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Hi George, as a retired civil/Structural Engineer I am familiar with metal fatigue, but that is proportional to use rather than age.  An old Classic that only saw relatively few miles won't have suffered from fatigue to a significant degree.  My 1959 '99' has only done about 34,000 miles so I'm happy to polish the rods and look at them closely for fatigue. (Using a Jeweller's 10x Loupe!)

Big end caps going oval are a definite sign of heavy use and anyone should walk away from those rods.  That shows that the rods have gone beyond their limit, whether through age or abuse.  Insufficient oil changes is the single most common cause of failure in any engine.  If you see a modern car (less than 10 years old) with a smoky exhaust, it will be due to inadequate oil changes, (or use of the wrong oil) unless they put diesel in a petrol engine!

If you intend to take your 60+ years-old bike to its limit, you MUST get the rods X-rayed or buy new ones if available - 'loadsamoney' though so perhaps beyond budget?

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Hi, Saw on Ebay in the States a company making forged pattern rods a couple of years ago. They looked well proportioned. I believe I linked from Access Norton website to look them up. If old rods are dimensionally correct, have them shot peened to increase the fatigue life. I used to do that on Queens Flight helicopter driveshafts to re-life once. Replace the Bolts and deburr them properly. Take any "nicks" out carefully, blend smoothly, do it before peening. I used to "life" aircraft parts, amazing what one can do using careful dressing. Very brown stained rods are worth a very close eye if one wants to re-use them. best regards, Paul

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What has happened to them to make them look 'worn'?

Steve

 


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