Tank knee pads Dominator 88

Jeff and Alan Hunter are the usual suspects if you want old bike rubber goods. Google will assist. I think they usually go to Kempton as well.David

Mel, the tank you show in your photograph is a widline tank that goes with a wideline frame, this style of tank/frame was discontinued in 1960, ok so I have owned several dominators over the years and they all had adhesive knee rubber pads, the holes you see in your photo are intended to fix the chrome panels as fitted from 1956.the front fixing arrangement was taken care of by two 3ba screws that also held the round plastic Norton badge.it would seem that these holes have been filled and painted over, you could get some adhesive knee pads and position them over the holes as would have been the case if you had the chromium panels, watch what adhesive you use though,it might react with the paint on your tank,depending on what type of paint is on the tank.

Regards. Jim Hill

Mel. 18 103814 is a 1962 650 frame. They were all of course slimline frames. However, you say yours is a wideline? The engine number indicates a 1955 500. It looks a though it is fitted with twin downdraught carburettors, from the limited view one has from the photograph.

You haven't got the numbers for frame and engine the wrong way round, have you?

fwiw the crank case of your engine is in fact 1955 from a wideline featherbed. My guess is that it was early in the model year. The head got bigger fins and minor changes to teh valve angle in 1960, and the inlet became downdraft 1962-on.

Paul

Previously mel_hadfield wrote:

Hi Jim

Thanks for the detailed info which is very interesting, I can't find any evidence of filled in holes but I will have a closer look with a magnifying glass. The bike was first registered 1963 but built from older parts, the frame number is 18-103814 and engine number 61023 K 122, which I was given to believe is 1956 engine and '62 frame.

The engine is of the downdraught variety and has twin carbs.

If it should have chromium panels, then I would prefer to source them than use stick on pads.

Many thanks

Mel

Yep - I had a "K 122", which is of course a 1955 Model 88 500 twin. The tank you have is from a later model which had screwed-on chrome tank panels. The good news is that these are being made today - Fred Williams usually has some. The bad news is that they cost a fortune! I think they are still listed in the NOC's spares but I can't access that whilst I'm writing this.

The 1955 tank was chrome-plated with a painted teardrop design and screwed-on tank badges (also still available for a mere fortune!) It's these tank badges which use 3BA screws and the holes will often be filled with paint if not used. The chrome tank panels needs stick-on rubber knee-grip panels to cover the screws. It looks much better that way!

This is a "Bitsa" with a Wideline tank on a slimline frame, although it's difficult to see the exact shape of the frame from your profile pics. If you post any more pics I'm sure the webmaster would appreciate smaller file sizes. 9.5MB and 6.4MB is MASSIVE! Just resize the photos on your software to around 2MB or less. It makes them much easier to email too.

The frame and swing-arm look very much like my 1955 dominator. Regards Neil.

Never mind the numbers, the photos show a wideline!

In the pictures, I see a subframe with straight tubes, a wide tank which fits neatly on the frame rails at the rear, rear forks with pull-back wheel adjusters (pre-'57, I think), pillion footrest mounts as a small flat lug on the main frame rails, not a sheet metal plate.

so it's a wideline bitsa with a later downdraft head, and perhaps a non correct frame number

Paul

Previously ian_cordes wrote:

Mel. 18 103814 is a 1962 650 frame. They were all of course slimline frames. However, you say yours is a wideline? The engine number indicates a 1955 500. It looks a though it is fitted with twin downdraught carburettors, from the limited view one has from the photograph.

You haven't got the numbers for frame and engine the wrong way round, have you?

What is the best adhesive for the stick on knee grips and is there a diagram in existence to accurately position them please?

Previously richard_evans wrote:

What is the best adhesive for the stick on knee grips and is there a diagram in existence to accurately position them please?

I use this: https://shop.maagtechnic.ch/ishop/product/catalog/01/product/PR_EC000529_0108_JLR.xml

Sorry, it's in German.

Fritz

Hi all, I recently restored a wideline tank for my 1957 Model 99 here are the before and after pictures. You can see the 4 screw holes in the before picture. I used standard contact adhesive to glue on the knee grips.

Regards, Alan

PS. nice Dommie Mel

Attachments
Petrol%20tank%20after%20restoration.jpg
perol-tank-before-restoration-jp

Thanks Fritz

Google translates fine.

Thanks Alan

Looks pretty neat and the picture helps locate. Can you remember what contact adhesive you used? AND

where did you get the 3BA dome headed screws for the Norton badge please?

Previously richard_evans wrote:

âCan you remember what contact adhesive you used? AND where did you get the 3BA dome headed screws for the Norton badge please?â

Hi Richard, I used Evo-Stik contact adhesive. The stainless steel screws were bought on eBay item number:272142084456 from âgwr-fastenersâ. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272142084456 I bought 1â length and cut them down to suit.Hope this helps, regards, Alan

Yep - in "the olden days" they used simple Evostik Contact adhesive where you coat both surfaces, leave them to dry then place the rubber VERY CAREFULLY in the right location on the tank.

PS. Word of warning! Evostik has a very high solvent content so alway use in a well-pventilated place - preferable with a fan going to take the evaporating solvent away from you. It used to be used (probablt still is!) by glue sniffers. VERY GREAT DANGER OF DEATH if you go down that road! Just saying. "Fore-warned etc..."

Thanks for the info regarding the adhesive and 3BA screws

I have a pair of stick on knee grips marketed by Jeff Hunter Engineering who claim to specialise in reproduction rubber components. The invoice simply says stick on without any further guidance. Contacted them and Evo Stik was suggested. I bought a tin of Evo stik Instant Contact adhesive and it's useless and has no adherence to the rubber. Hard to believe they have ever used it. The knee grips are not cheap either and neither is Evo Stick.Ive googled and it's obviously a problem a lot of owners have and several recommend double sided tape and Scotch is a brand which is mentioned. Orafol is another brand and I've sent for a sample because it's £19.00 a roll.I have seen several bikes on the Norton Owners stands at exhibitions and they seem to have their rubber knee grips firmly attached. Would anyone care to share their secret please.

Richard - Either you had a bad batch (It should have been Evostik Impact Adhesive which is suitable for non-porous materials) or they have changed the formula since I last used it many years ago. If both surfaces are coated then left to go tacky you just press the rubber knee grip onto the tank. Any surplus around the out side of the rubber can be peeled off later. Evostik was used in the motorcycle industry for numerous items including seat covers.

Did yours have a powerful solvent smell? Double-sided tape will be more difficult to use as the whole area - especially the edges - of the rubber needs to bond to the tank. Obviously both parts have to be degreased clean first. I always use my best drinking meths!

Previously richard_evans wrote:

I have a pair of stick on knee grips marketed by Jeff Hunter Engineering who claim to specialise in reproduction rubber components. The invoice simply says stick on without any further guidance. Contacted them and Evo Stik was suggested. I bought a tin of Evo stik Instant Contact adhesive and it's useless and has no adherence to the rubber. Hard to believe they have ever used it. The knee grips are not cheap either and neither is Evo Stick.Ive googled and it's obviously a problem a lot of owners have and several recommend double sided tape and Scotch is a brand which is mentioned. Orafol is another brand and I've sent for a sample because it's £19.00 a roll.I have seen several bikes on the Norton Owners stands at exhibitions and they seem to have their rubber knee grips firmly attached. Would anyone care to share their secret please.

Thanks for sharing that. I'm using the same stuff, which adheres to the tank but has no adhesion whatsoever on the rubber knee pads I'm trying to stick on. Maybe the composition of the rubber is an influencing factor.

Is there a mould release agent on the back of the rubber? That's what it sounds like. Sand paper might assist

You are spot on David. I checked with the supplier and he told me there is a releasing agent on the back of the rubbers and recommended using roughing the surface up with emery paper, which I did and they seem to have stuck done well.

Pity the supplier doesn't either remove the releasing agent or make it clear it needs to be done, as it would have saved me a lot of time and effort.

Many thanks for all the help on here.