Steering lock on a late 650SS

Previously john_maccallum wrote:

The steering lock (when engaged) misses the welded on lug on the frame.

Strange. The distance between the top yoke and the nut below ist to big

Fritz

Attachments
dscn3624-jpg

Hi _ I agree with Barry. The shouldered part of the steering column nut is not engaged in the recess in the top yoke. If the paint on it is too thick it can be hard to engage. Remove your top yoke and see that it fits over the steering column nut and can rotate easily. You may have to gently remove paint from hole in yoke..... When you reassemble the top yoke correctly your fork tubes will need to move down a lttle. I suggest you do a trial fit with the headlamp shrouds out of the way first. Make sure that the tapered portion of the tubes reach the top face of the yoke and the collar on the steering column nut is totally buried into the yoke such that only the hexagon is in view. If that cannot be achieved then the problem is much worse. Regards, Howard

My yokes fit flat against the hexagon. Yours is not seated properly.

EDIT: I now see someone already said that.

Previously john_maccallum wrote:

At the moment an struggling to find a wiring diagram for the 67/68 650SS, something that has even defeated Alan Osbourn.

Probably on of those:

Fritz

Attachments
1968-all-models-manual-p65-66-pdf

Previously fritz_wettstein wrote:

Previously john_maccallum wrote:

At the moment an struggling to find a wiring diagram for the 67/68 650SS, something that has even defeated Alan Osbourn.

Probably on of those:

Fritz

Those are both 6 volt systems which is fine but do you have a 12 volt model?

12 V from 1964 on 650 and 3/8 rear chain too.

Previously Neil Wyatt wrote:

12 V from 1964 on 650 and 3/8 rear chain too.

The lower diagram is 12v isn't it. I just saw the zener diode there.

Previously Neil Wyatt wrote:

12 V from 1964 on 650 and 3/8 rear chain too.

This one?

Fritz

Attachments
electricl-diagram-1964-pdf

Previously Neil Wyatt wrote:

12 V from 1964 on 650 and 3/8 rear chain too.

Rear chain 5/8th by a 1/4 is better bet has it will not catch the chain guard and there is no improvement with the bigger chain just more weight , and more ware too, so stick too the early chains to days chain's are far stronger than the old stuff , and light too ,

Previously john_maccallum wrote:

Hi to Frits, Neil and Jonathan,

The 1967 onward 650SS should have the two wire RM21 alternator making the 1964 onward diagram obsolete. I've re-drawn the diagram for the two wire alternator and have attached it if anybody is interested. However Alan Osborn strongly advises against this setup as Zener failures and battery/bulb fry-ups can ensue. He recommends a new type regulator (which handilyenough he sells).

yes use this but too a SA 41 switch there just a better switch and will handle 12 volts better to my Manxman now has 12 volt and a SA 41 switch real good light now like a big search light up front , RM21 12 volts two wires you need the rotor too match and a solid state rectifier it comes with wiring diagram easy to follow . If a female can follow you can ! and it not knit one Perl one ether !! yours Anna J

A few fuses would not go amiss in those layouts.

Nothing wrong with 1/4" chain Anna, I put a 3/8" on my 64 engined 650, not just because it was standard issue but also because I already had the sprocket / brake drum of the bigger size. It doesn't catch anything but maybe because on this I use a thin stainless chainguard.

On the electrical front; I wouldn't go against anything Al says but I have Boyer power boxes on many of my bikes. You are still in business if your battery fails or your fuse blows or comes apart. (Or both as happened to me)