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Primary chain lube

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

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Either not at all or a small oil tank with a drip feed. If you are running dry, a daily light application of self levelling grease is remarkably effective. One of my oldies has an exposed primary chain and this works well.

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Either not at all or a small oil tank with a drip feed. If you are running dry, a daily light application of self levelling grease is remarkably effective. One of my oldies has an exposed primary chain and this works well.

Self levelling grease?

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Previously john_tickell wrote:

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Either not at all or a small oil tank with a drip feed. If you are running dry, a daily light application of self levelling grease is remarkably effective. One of my oldies has an exposed primary chain and this works well.

Self levelling grease?

Here: http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/products/cars/classic-oils/classic-greases.html

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Previously Bruce Mitchell wrote:

Previously john_tickell wrote:

Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

Either not at all or a small oil tank with a drip feed. If you are running dry, a daily light application of self levelling grease is remarkably effective. One of my oldies has an exposed primary chain and this works well.

Self levelling grease?

Here: http://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/products/cars/classic-oils/classic-greases.html

Thanks. John

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

Hi Jonathan, what about good old drive-chain spray, millions of bikes the world over survive on chain spray once every time you remember and I bet most run open to the elements as well. I would worry more about your clutch basket bearing running dry unless its the greased sealed variety.

Cheers Big Alan Clarke Shenstone branch sec.

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I was hoping to discover some "Little Known Secrets of the Racers" but I might as well use the sticky oil I put on the rear chain. It would be at least as good as grease but not as good as a drip feed. If I start making a drip feed all my rebuild parts and gaskets will arrive before I finish it. I need to ride the bike now.

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Previously alan_clarke2 wrote:

Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

Hi Jonathan, what about good old drive-chain spray, millions of bikes the world over survive on chain spray once every time you remember and I bet most run open to the elements as well. I would worry more about your clutch basket bearing running dry unless its the greased sealed variety.

Cheers Big Alan Clarke Shenstone branch sec.

Since the clutch basket rollers only see action when you pull the clutch in, I just won't shift much.

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When I raced JAP-powered speedway bikes in the sixties, we used Norton clutches and I can't remember any problems with basket rollers. We greased them occasionally. Chains was a bigger problem, cleaned them with kerosene after each race or practise day. Back then you could by tin cans with chain grease. We heated the can until the gease melted and immersed the chains in the melted grease. Some hardcore traditionalists cooked their chains in a mixture of graphite and sheep fat. The smell was awful.

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I still have a half used tin of Lynklyfe under the bench. Once it's molten, NEVER attempt to carry it through the house. Serious loss of brownie points, not to mention carpet.

I use self levelling grease because I have a big tin of it. It's surprisingly good. Any lubrication is better than none - spray can, EP90, whatever.

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

I still have a half used tin of Lynklyfe under the bench. Once it's molten, NEVER attempt to carry it through the house. Serious loss of brownie points, not to mention carpet.

I use self levelling grease because I have a big tin of it. It's surprisingly good. Any lubrication is better than none - spray can, EP90, whatever.

Do you also melt the self-levelling grease or just smear it on?

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

Well I use Harley daivdson primary chain oil made by Lucas oils its good stuff will not let the clutch slip or drag, cools and lubricats chains and bearing , you should try some, yours anna j

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Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

Previously alan_clarke2 wrote:

Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

Hi Jonathan, what about good old drive-chain spray, millions of bikes the world over survive on chain spray once every time you remember and I bet most run open to the elements as well. I would worry more about your clutch basket bearing running dry unless its the greased sealed variety.

Cheers Big Alan Clarke Shenstone branch sec.

Since the clutch basket rollers only see action when you pull the clutch in, I just won't shift much.

What happens when you pull up at traffic lights or a road junction, I wouldn't have thought sitting with the clutch pulled in for a few minutes isnt going to do a dry bearing any good or do you intend to select neutral every time you pull up. Good luck with that one, unless you've got a gearbox that the rest of us could only dream about.

Cheers Alan

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Previously alan_clarke2 wrote:

Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

Previously alan_clarke2 wrote:

Previously Jonathan Soons wrote:

I have to run a dry clutch temporarily. Does anyone know how the primary chain was lubed on those racers with an open primary drive and a very skimpy chainguard?

Hi Jonathan, what about good old drive-chain spray, millions of bikes the world over survive on chain spray once every time you remember and I bet most run open to the elements as well. I would worry more about your clutch basket bearing running dry unless its the greased sealed variety.

Cheers Big Alan Clarke Shenstone branch sec.

Since the clutch basket rollers only see action when you pull the clutch in, I just won't shift much.

What happens when you pull up at traffic lights or a road junction, I wouldn't have thought sitting with the clutch pulled in for a few minutes isnt going to do a dry bearing any good or do you intend to select neutral every time you pull up. Good luck with that one, unless you've got a gearbox that the rest of us could only dream about.

Cheers Alan

I simply wouldn't let a bearing run dry. What a silly suggestion. And now some advice for you: Don't drive with your axle nuts loose. I know what you're like, Alan.

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I apply the self-levelling grease to chains with an old paintbrush or a 60ml syringe (depends on the chain accessibility). No need to melt.

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"Putoline" brand chain wax is the same stuff as "Linklife" was, and after cleaning the chain with paraffin you immerse it in melted Putoline for a minute, then drag it out with a wire hook and let it drip into the tin. Out of doors, NOT in the kitchen! It sets and gets right into the rollers, repels dirt and an occasional spray with Castrol chain wax aerosol keeps chains done this way happy between annual re-boilings. A smear of molygrease keeps the clutch rollers happy, I reckon.

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What exactly is 'Rocol' chain lube, that's very sticky, and is there an equivalent that isn't aerosol. John

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Previously John Shorter wrote:

Doesn't everyone select neutral, while still rolling?

I must have a good box then (1958 AMC)as I'm able to select neutral from first or second at standstill. It's been like this since it was rebuilt (by me)following the Hemmings dvd instructions. When I had a chain fitted I used chainwax and gearoiled the rollersbefore I sussed out why the primary leaked (sidestand bracket wasn't allowing the outer cover to seat properly).

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Previously tom_mcewen wrote:

A smear of molygrease keeps the clutch rollers happy, I reckon.

I put assembly lube on the rollers when I first put it all together but that only lasts so long. The rollers on the AMC clutch are more exposed than others (BSA, Triumph) and I think I could drip some oil down between the last plate and the clutch basket and it will end up in the right place. On other bikes that would not work because there is such a small gap between the hub and the basket and the oil would most likely go the wrong way.

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A smear of molygrease keeps the clutch rollers happy, I reckon.

Aah! Moly... I love it but it is the kiss of death to a clutch plate.

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Putting my centrestand down used to always coat my boot with a dodder of linkelyfe which I then duely transferred to the carpet indoors. I graduated from a precariously balanced tin of linklyfe on a gaz camping stove, to a deep fat frier with basket etc. much more civilised.enlightened

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Lucas Motorcycle Primary Chain oil It one of the best you can use it cools too, And lubricates the small rollers at the back of the clutch were has that thing like grease with not lubricate these small rollers , And dose not contaminate the chutch plates like Grease will ,

yours anna j

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Yes, but for running a dry primary chain you want a lubricant that does not fling from the chain. Various spray greases are reasonably good in this respect but I still find my tub of Morris's self-levelling grease to be better than most when used as a chain lube. No doubt the Lucas oil is excellent in an oil bath primary chaincase.

 


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