Oil quantities for 1961 Dommie?

The manual states that the engine oil tank has a working capacity of 4 1/2 pints (2.3 litres). It recommends S.A.E. 20/50 or S.A.E. 30, but may vary, depending on where in the World you are. The gearbox has a level plug at the back, which will tell you when to stop filling it with S.A.E. 50; and each fork leg holds 142cc (5 fluid ounces) S.A.E. 20 grade oil.

Ian

In addition to the above you may need around 130 to 140cc of SAE 30 for the primary chaincase. You can use a 10/W30 or 15W/40 or even a W20/50 for this as long as it does not contain friction modifiers which may make the clutch slip. The original oil for the primary chaincase and forks was called Castrolite but I have not seen it on sale for a while. Some people use a transmission fluid but if it leaks out can be unkind to any paintwork.

As an alternative for the gearbox, you could consider a 80W90 Hypoy oil or 85W90 or even straight 90. I like using a modern synthetic oil in my gearboxes. The oils seem to absorb less moisture and not need changing so frequently.

A good quality 20W50 oil can actually be used in the engine, gearbox and forks on a Norton if you have difficulty in getting supplies of the prefered choices.

It's our pleasure, duckie!

After Lubos' last comment I'm pleased to say I use straight oil, SEA 40 in my Dommie engine and top up with SEA 30 in the Winter. Gearbox to the level with Castrol EP90. Primary drive to the level on the centre stand with SEA 20. Forks with either 15 or 20 weight fork oil BUT 200cc not the 150 it says in the book and that was the best thing I ever did to improve handling, apart from the modern Avon tyres. Warning: Do not exceed 200cc.

Please note: The only reason that engine oil was recommended over gear oil (EP90) in the gear box was because at that time Extreme pressure gear oil contained corrosive additives. Thisfor more than 40 yearsis no longerin the spec of higher quality gear oil, such as Castrol EP90 and is the specification for my Mk 3 Commando gearbox. An AMC box.

Previously phil_hannam wrote:

In addition to the above you may need around 130 to 140cc of SAE 30 for the primary chaincase. You can use a 10/W30 or 15W/40 or even a W20/50 for this as long as it does not contain friction modifiers which may make the clutch slip. The original oil for the primary chaincase and forks was called Castrolite but I have not seen it on sale for a while. Some people use a transmission fluid but if it leaks out can be unkind to any paintwork.

As an alternative for the gearbox, you could consider a 80W90 Hypoy oil or 85W90 or even straight 90. I like using a modern synthetic oil in my gearboxes. The oils seem to absorb less moisture and not need changing so frequently.

A good quality 20W50 oil can actually be used in the engine, gearbox and forks on a Norton if you have difficulty in getting supplies of the prefered choices.

Well Now there is no need for a for a SAE 30 in the primary chain case , now there is Harley Davidson primary chain oil that is formulated oil bath clutches , that will not let the clutch slip or eroded the clutch rubbers , you find this on ebay, its good stuff so try it out,

and as engine oil goes you need Morris golden film 20/50 and get 10% off with the Norton owners club . As gearbox goes do not use a gear oil with EP in it , you need Hypoly 80 castrol

EP stands for Extreme Pressure Anna, although the Harley Davidson primary chain oil sounds worth trying. Never had an issue with EP90 and I us Castrol EP 140 in my 16H Dolls Head box.

I accidentally put some semi synthetic light oilin my poor man's Manx primary 18 months ago and when the clutch started to slip I knew why. Got so bad that kicking it over was just like having the clutch leaver in...If all our fuel ends up with Ethanol contamination, most of this might not matter anyway.

EP stands for Extreme Pressure Anna, although the Harley Davidson primary chain oil sounds worth trying. Never had an issue with EP90 and I us Castrol EP 140 in my 16H Dolls Head box.

I accidentally put some semi synthetic light oilin my poor man's Manx primary 18 months ago and when the clutch started to slip I knew why. Got so bad that kicking it over was just like having the clutch leaver in...If all our fuel ends up with Ethanol contamination, most of this might not matter anyway.

Hello Neil I know what EP stands for we learnt all this way back in 1967, at Selby technical collage . and EP as some not nice additives in it that does not like bass or bronze bushes , its is why I said use Hypoly 90 Hypoly is short for High in polymers these polymers give a high bearing protection , aspeicaly with bass or bronze bushes , that there are in a Norton gear box, so using EP90 you may as well put sawdust in your gear box as its doing the gearbox no favors .your Anna J

Lubos:

Please do not take this wrong but I believe thet you should start a new, separate conversation about your swingarm. The members, when looking at the title of the current conversation about oil quantities, might just skip over it as theypresume that the question has been answered.

Best

Mike

Hi Anna, I understand about the old EP gear oils and indeed, some of the cheaper gear oils still use the corrosive agents but not the good quality ones since some time in the 70's. This why it is recommended for my Mk3 Commando. No issues with that box. I use Castrol EP 90 on all my Norton gearboxes and Castrol EP 140 in my 16H Dolls head box as it's thicker. No issues to date and no sawdust!

http://www.google.co.uk/url?q=http://www.classic-oils.net/Content-68/-&sa=U&ei=kCM2U43eJYaVhQfIs4CwDQ&ved=0CFQQFjAJ&sig2=uoDVsThTCSp_swEkHTxY9A&usg=AFQjCNFSv5O9JZypepZVKV5nGJNU3i2AVw

Hi Anna, I understand about the old EP gear oils and indeed, some of the cheaper gear oils still use the corrosive agents but not the good quality ones since some time in the 70's. This why it is recommended for my Mk3 Commando. No issues with that box. I use Castrol EP 90 on all my Norton gearboxes and Castrol EP 140 in my 16H Dolls head box as it's thicker. No issues to date and no sawdust!

http://www.google.co.uk/url?q=http://www.classic-oils.net/Content-68/-&sa=U&ei=kCM2U43eJYaVhQfIs4CwDQ&ved=0CFQQFjAJ&sig2=uoDVsThTCSp_swEkHTxY9A&usg=AFQjCNFSv5O9JZypepZVKV5nGJNU3i2AVw

metal like bronze or brass bushes say i have been saying all along . !! yours Anna J

EP stands for Extreme Pressure Anna, although the Harley Davidson primary chain oil sounds worth trying. Never had an issue with EP90 and I us Castrol EP 140 in my 16H Dolls Head box.

I accidentally put some semi synthetic light oilin my poor man's Manx primary 18 months ago and when the clutch started to slip I knew why. Got so bad that kicking it over was just like having the clutch leaver in...If all our fuel ends up with Ethanol contamination, most of this might not matter anyway.

yes its Lucas oil made for oil bath chain cases ie Norton or Harley Davidson , Triumph / BSA !!! yours Anna J

Hi Lubo, you must be thinking that 'ground hog' day has arrived as you keep reading reprints of reprints of reprints of the same text.

Can I apologize on behalf of all the NOC members who are trying to givea few sensible answers to your questions. You must be wishing, at times, that you had not bothered in the first place. Mike's suggestion of starting a new thread about your swinging arm is very sensible but the chances are that you may still have to read through loads of mostly pointlesrubbishor repeated text to learn anything new.

Your swinging arm appears to had been modified to take bronze bushes.This was a very common conversion in the 1960s to help improve the Featherbed high speed handling. In the UK, companies like Dresda Auto and Unity Equipe were the specialists to talk to. They are still around and may be able to help you.