OIL

Use it in primary transmission? Maybe in gearbox? Buy a YZF-R1M?

Not suitable for old clunkers that's what I thought, until I saw a mechanic changing the oil in a oily rag Manx Norton three years ago at the Isle Of Man classic TT. We had a good chat about this Norton not missing a beat in any of its races and not breaking down unlike a number of other machines.

I asked him if it was Castrol R and that I was using Morris straight 50s in my Manx after a full rebuild, he told me the oil he was using was Fuches Silkolene Pro4 Extreme performance 15w-50 Fully Synthetic Ester Race oil...........

Yamaha don't have wet clutches?

About oil for the Manx. Previously Molnar recommended Morris MLR40 for his engines.A while ago he changed his recommendation to "Full synthetic 10/40 – superior to “R” used in our Team bikes." So I believe things have changed. Nowadays Ducati recommends a special Shell oil. What specifications has your Yamalube oil? It is quite possible that it is intended for wet clutches. Can't remember any Yamaha motorcycles with dry clutch. But they do a lot of other things to, e.g. boat motors.

I'd use it in the engine. It's far superior to any of the oils we used to suffer back in the day. It may however find its way out through any leak points.....

If it's OK for Yamahas which have wet clutches then it's OK for use in primary chaincases although my preference is for ATF.

Having said that I buy standard 20W/50 for the engines of both my ES2 and Moto Guzzi.

The thing you have to avoid is friction modifiers which are used in some car oils. They can be identified by a special symbol as below.

I have been using a 10/40W to use it up in my B44 with roller big end, no problems. With a shell bearing big end I use 10/60W as the higher viscosity at higher temps keeps the oil pressure up.

Hello, the best of all primary chain oil is made for Harley Davidson, Lucas Primary chain oils see Ebay oils.UK   best oil  is Duckham classic Q40 or classic Q20/50   next up is Castrol LX  or Morris  oils,    Milliers oils,  Rock oil,  Lucas oils,    Penright oils,   Shell oils,  so take your pick                                      yours  anna j  

It is likely to flush out any old cr#p that may be lurking in hidden corners in the engine. I would probably only use it in conjunction with a full flow Commando/car-type canister oil filter. If not, you may want to sacrifice the first fill-up quite soon, as you would do with flushing oil.

If not, have you got a car?

... that detergent or any other oil "flushes out crap". Once it's settled I can't see any reason why it should move as there's no real flow over anywhere it might have lodged.

The point of detergent oils (which virtually all are these days) is that rather than dropping any deposits they hold contaminants in suspension so that they're removed with oil changes.

However, I agree an early change would probably be a good idea especially as it's free!

Don't forget that the Velocette that set the 24hrs speed record was running on 10W-40. It lasted the course.

Ah, you have confessed! It was you that bought Kia, was it?!!

Ian. All well and good with a proper filter, but risky without. I am quite sure I would not want these contaminants washing around my engine, without being removed by a modern filter on the first circulation. We agree on an early oil change though; the whole point being that the oil is free!

Gordon. 10W-40 what? !0w-40 is available in mineral, semi-synthetic or fully-synthetic; very different oils.....

Choice was limited back in 1961 - no synthetic or variants available than. So it was mineral oil.

Yes, but I do not think the issue is so much the grade of the oil, as the fact that it is fully synthetic.

Robert. I was only joking about the Kia; they certainly pack a wallop!

Is this the mounting bracket that came with your kit? See attached. If so, does it not fit? It looks to me that the weight of the filter would encourage the bracket to pivot on the mounting bolts. I bought a filter kit for my 650ss-engined Wideline a few years back, which they say 'fits to any flat surface'. Hence, no mounting bracket. I made one, but it is not really satisfactory, and needs replacing.

Ian

Morgo do a nice small one, hoping they’ll be at Telford tomorrow 

dan

Ian...the bracket you show works fine. It bolts to existing lugs under frame rails and the cut outs lean on the cross tube. It can't rotate anywhere.  (I see a twig stuck in there somewhere! Not original...just patina...but do I see a wonky bolt head?)