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New member says hello and asks question

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Hello. I joined the NOC earlier this week. I live in Settle Nth Yorks.

In 1978 I owned a MK11A. I was 19 years old and my skills as a bike mechanic were limited. The bike broke down regularly and I pushed it for miles. Eventually I traded it in against a honda 750. I've missed my Norton ever since.

So I've bought a MK111 recently. I'm in my mid fifties now and I'm a confident mechanic so I'm better equipped to enjoy this one.

I have a million questions I'd like to ask but here's a few for starters.

1. The oil drains into the sump over a couple of days. Do I need to remove the timing cover to inspect the anti wet sumping valve?

2. Some of the fuel pipe is perished. What size inner diameter is the fuel pipe?

3. Some of the head nuts/bolts have been replaced with non standard sizes so I'm not sure which ones require 20ft/lb and which ones require 30ft/lb

4. Is 530 drive chain suitable on standard sprockets?

5. There are several traders on the web selling shock absorbers for between £50 & £80. I assume these are Chinese imports and I am open minded as regards quality. Are they any good? Anybody use them?

Any help or advice gratefully received.

Regards - Chris

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Welcome back to the fold Chris. I'll pitch in on the first query. The Mk3 anti-drain valve has a small bleed hole behind it but can easily stick back in the housing (the spring is very light).

I've found it advantageous to polish the side of the plunger so that it's an easy sliding fit in the housing. It seals on the tip, so a little side clearance is not a problem.

The new production Andover Norton oil pumps seem to be much better at resisting drainage and I'd regard 'a couple of days' as rather too short for a pump in good condition. If it were mine, I might well consider a new oil pump.

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Hi Chris, 530 chain is correct for Commandos but you won't be able to fit an o ring chain as it's too wide 530 means 5/8" pitch and 3/8" width..... 520 is 5/8 X 2/8 (1/4")

I wouldn't put inferior shocks on a bike, you get what you pay for. My Brother's CX500 with £50 shocks was "shocking" Hagon's would be the way ahead IMHO.

Fuel pipe 5/16" bore

Well worth investing a few quid in a proper workshop manual or at least the American Tech notes available from this website I believe (NOCSHOP)

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Hi Chris & Welcome,

I would suggest that (if not already purchased)you get a copy of the MK III Workshop manual (£20)from Andover Norton: http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/JRP/jrframes.htm

The parts list (£13:50) is a good investment & also helps with (dis-)assembly. (you can also access this online under the Andover webshop). As an e.g. I scanned& printed pages from myparts list/manual to pin on the garage wall when I removed the head toreplace the guides (saves grubby fingers on pages and info is immediately to hand).

The Haynes manual is quite helpful and I think still widely available, you will find the (imo better) Clymer manual appearingevery so often on eBay.

Shocks depend on your budget, as David says 'you get what you pay for'. Andover listanacceptablereplacement pairat £75

http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton%20Website/norton/parts-list.php

You could spend more on a pair of Hagon's & get a better product. I bit the bullet a few months ago & bought a pair of IKON Dial A Rides (ref: 7610-1653) from Norman Hyde - imo they are excellent;though considerably more than £75 they can berebuilt. Other choices areavailable.

Regards,

Mike

MK III Commando

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A note regarding the fitting of Progressive Suspension rear shocks as I have spent several hours in the last week working on these.

One or two people in the Club have fitted them and say they are superb. They ought to be for the price. Where they are not superb is how they fit. It soon became clear that the 12 series units marketed for the Commando are not designed to fit, they are merely the best fit available from the range. From what's in the box, it is clear that they are designed for an unmentionable piece of agricultural equipment deriving from Milwaukee.

The slight difficulty lies in the the standard shocks having an overall spring diameter of 51mm and the Progressives being wider at 64mm. In addition, the distance from the bottom bush to where the shock opens out is rather less than on the standard ones. All this makes the clearance from the chainguard very little indeed or even negative.

The cure is to space the lower bush off from the swinging arm using the 'top hat' bush insert provided and maybe a washer as well. The lower mounting is offset and the unit has to be mounted with its wider part facing outwards.

The arrangement is obviously not ideal as it means the shocks are then slightly splayed outwards and not directly parallel to the line of the bike. I don't know yet as I am still setting them up, but too wide a divergence might result in poorer handling and/or accelerated rubber bush wear. In practice, those already using Progressive shocks seem to get on with them just fine.

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Hi Chris,

I'm in Settle &joined the NOC last year. I've a couple of Norton singles amongst other things. No experience withCommando stuff specifically, but I've been doing bikes for a long time.

If you want to meet up for a chat drop me an email duncansmith66@yahoo.com

Regard

Duncan

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Thank you all for the useful pointers. I've got a manual and parts list which almost led me up the garden path yesterday. I changed the rear wheel bearings. I removed the locking ring (right hand thread) without reference to the manual. Later the manual assured me it was a left hand thread. I'm glad I didn't check before removing it. So you live and learn.

Regards - Chris

PS....Duncan, it's good to know I'm not alone in Settle I may need to contact you in the future for general Norton advice.

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I've heard that later editions of the factory manual had the thread direction corrected. I fell for that one. Having bought bearings and seals one Saturday before lunch and after destroying the lock-ring, I was back a few hours later for a new lock-ring, to be told at the spares counter "They're not left-hand thread, you know"

There was also a parts book which showed the oil filter plumbed into the feed line. It's not just on the internet that you can't believe everything that's written !

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On your point 1 re the anti-oil drain valve arrangement in the timing cover, it was very much a last gasp afterthought designon the Mk 3 by Norton and never really worked that well.Got tired of the clouds of white smokewhen starting after a bike had beensitting a while andgave up on fiddling with minefinally fittingthe high quality Mick Hemmings oil pipe in-line valve (about36 quid)which hassolved all wet sumping permanently. I'm often leaving bike for three months between runs and oil tank level never drops a milimetre.

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Congrats on buying a MkIII, the best sorted of the lot. Hagons are great. My Mk3 has Marzocchi's with 5 presets. They are very good but I've no idea if they are still available.

Regards Rob.

 


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