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Navigator clutch cable

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I got some issues with my NOC spares clutch cable.

I have a free end lenght of 86mm . I can?t get it into the cable adjuster of the hand lever. The rotaing lever is pulled all the way back when I pull the free end and I do not have enough lenght to get it properly into the cable adjuster. Can somebody please have a look how long the free end on this cabel has to be?

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Problem solved, I got the wrong levers with too long adjusters.

New ones and new front brake cable ordered from NOC spares.

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Previously Ulrich Hoffmann wrote:

Problem solved, I got the wrong levers with too long adjusters.

New ones and new front brake cable ordered from NOC spares.

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Hi Ulrich

Navigator levers did not have adjustment.

Pre 106838 engine numbers had adjustment on gearbox (as on your cable).

See picture

It was very fiddly.

For 1963 (106838 onwards & all Electra) the cable adjuster was moved near to the handlebar as an in-line adjuster.

Attachments clutch_cable-early-jpg
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Thanks Andy,

I used some spare levers from my 1970 Commando with adjusters,

which did not work. I have the correct early cable.

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BEFORE (!) you install or change the clutch cable in the Navigator gearbox put a piece of rag or paper into that hole behind the clutch actuating mechanism in the gearbox so that the clevis pin which goes over the cable end will not fall behind the inner gearbox cover. Don?t ask how I know...

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Well, NOC spares sent me the correct levers within one week! Great service!

Now the cables fit. Maybe German TÃV (MOT) wants to see ball end levers for safety reasons, we?ll see.

IMG-20171112-_WA0020

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Hello Uli,

That is looking good. Do not forget to fit the steering head cover before you fit the wiring loom and headlight. The loom will only pass through the grommet holes from the headlight side.

Tell the TUV examiner that the Norton Navigator is correct without ball end levers as it was manufactured before 1963. Ball end levers came in with the first Electra; the MOT man here in Ireland agreed with that so it must be right.

Patrick

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But if he is a proper clever fellow he might say that you have the later handlebars. The original style bars had a welded on stub for mounting the levers.

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Ulrich:

I would re-route the throttle cable.

Where it is now it will wear away the paint on the fork covers or if you route it inside then it will wear on the headlight shell.

Perhaps a wire "stand-off" can be fitted somewhere to keep the cable from wearing on a painted surface.

Just a thought

Mike

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Another reason for re-routing the throttle cable is to prevent jamming of the brake lever. If the brake moves down, or the throttle body rotates backwards, it will prevent full application of the front brake. I run the throttle cable exit from the twist grip above the brake lever to prevent this from happening

Paul

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

Ulrich:

I would re-route the throttle cable.

Where it is now it will wear away the paint on the fork covers or if you route it inside then it will wear on the headlight shell.

Perhaps a wire "stand-off" can be fitted somewhere to keep the cable from wearing on a painted surface.

Just a thought

Mike

 


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